[ora8i]

Evening All.

I was looking over some slingshots on Thingiverse and I'd like to give one a try.

I would be printing in PETg not PLA or ABS which ones can you recommend that are both small enough to be pocket friendly and strong enough to be safe?

Thanks. Ora

 

[Palmettoflyer]

Welcome to the forum,

I've printed a few frames. PETG is a good choice. Just remember, this is plastic and no mater what you use, it is subject to damage or instant failure. One fork strike and it's done. Also, if you don't get good layer bonding, a fork can snap off under band tension. So, be careful and always inspect the frame before shooting.

That said, I get good results with 5 to 7 wall, top, and bottom. Infill depends on the frame type and size. Usually anything from 30 to 50% is enough with a grid like pattern. On my Ender 3, I run PETG at 245 degrees and bed temp around 70. Your temps will depend on your filament and printer hardware.

What frame are you looking to print and what is your shooting experience?

 

[ora8i]

I have not shot a slingshot since I was a child so I'm likely to hit the frame so it seems that a 3d printed one isn't a good choice.

I had been thinking of printing :-

Atb. Ora

 

[Palmettoflyer]

There is nothing wrong with printing frames. Just need to understand how the fail, be prepared, and use a little caution to be safe with them.

However, since you are new to the hobby I would recommend buying your first frame from a vendor. Also if you print a frame, you still need proper bands, pouch, and ammo. I see your location is in the UK. My recommendation to get started would be to buy from Wasp Slingshots or Proshot Catapults or look for Gamekeeper John on ebay. There are a lot of other sellers in the UK too. You will need the extra supplies, so might as well do a one stop buying purchase. For someone just starting out in the UK, Wasp Slingshots has a lot to offer.

https://www.waspslingshots.co.uk/standard-slingshots-1

https://proshotcatapults.com/

 

[Old Iowan]

Just wondering...Is there some reason, depending on the design of course that holes can't be drilled and support rods inserted to ad some % of insurance against failure? Just a thought :hmm: :what:

 

[ora8i]

That would be done by leaving a channel in the slingshot at the design stage.

At an appropriate point during the print the print is paused the metal inserted, the print continued and the metal is seamlessly incorporated.

It's easier said than done!

Ora

 

[Old Iowan]

That would be done by leaving a channel in the slingshot at the design stage.

At an appropriate point during the print the print is paused the metal inserted, the print continued and the metal is seamlessly incorporated.

It's easier said than done!

Ora

I'm sorry my suggestion wasn't clear - I should have stated that the holes would be drilled and support rods added AFTER the SS was totally done being printed - Just like if you have a natural SS with maybe a slight crack - Again...just a thought.

 

[ora8i]

It should be possible with care, PETg doesn't take glue well but PLA does.

I'm not sure how thick a rod could be used but even something quite thin might stop bits flying off if the frame shattered.

Atb.

 

[Palmettoflyer]

Pausing the printer is one way to do it, but I don't have the patience to wait for that exact moment. So my version uses layers that are assembled with CA glue. PETG takes CA as good as PLA. The example below is all PETG. Drilling holes would work, just not very elegant. Adding rods adds strength for sure, but a frame strike will cause a fracture to the frame.

Here is a PFS that I CADed up in Fusion 360 that is called the PFS Hunter, it is a design by Gamekeeper John. So rightfully so, all credit to John for this frame design. I was on a business trip a some time ago and while surfing YouTube for entertainment, I found John showing off his concept PFS Frame called the Hunter. This may still be available from him, but I have no idea. I snagged a picture out of the video and commenced to playing with it in Fusion 360. Similar to the PFS Colt that I built while back, I put layers on this one and something extra that I did for the Colt.

When I assembled the Colt, I felt like it needed more strength in the neck of the frame than the 3D print would provide. So I used my dremel tool and put slots for steel rods. Worked pretty good and thought that I would plan that up front for my next build.

The middle layer has designed slots for .09" hard music wire. (by product from another hobby) The music wire is hardened steel and very stiff. In the assembly process, I assemble the middle first and then the outside scales using a block of wood and two vertical pins to keep the alignment. Worked great and shoots really well. Pictures will show more than I can type.

 

[ora8i]

I do like those they're very well done.

How about vase mode in Cura to get a hollow shell and fill it with resin.
Of course unless you have the resin on hand it's probably cheaper just to buy a frame!

Ora

 

[Palmettoflyer]

I have made several with the layers. That alone adds stiffness to the frame. The wire rod inserts is just a little extra security on thinner frames. So far, I have two with the rod insert, one of which I know is getting a lot of use in the UK.

There are a couple of guys that I am aware of using Task 12 and the flex 777 to make frames. The resin makes a much nicer looking frame by itself, but if you have a new idea, please bring it on and share with the group. We all like seeing new ideas put into action.