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I am have been shooting an EVO since I started shooting slingshots just over a year ago. I have had pretty decent accuracy level working my way down in target size and now mostly shoot at a 3cm target from 10m. One thing I noticed is what I originally thought was my aiming point (at the fork tip), turned out to not be quite correct for the anchor point i was using. Obviously when I was hitting the larger targets it wasn’t so obvious but now I am on the small targets I was missing. After some paper shooting confirmed my grouping is ok but not dead centre so it left me with a couple of options.
To compensate I now have to either move my anchor point or or aim a couple of millimetres down the fork which happens to match where the bands are when at full stretch as I look along them. As I use wrap and tuck it is a bit of a fiddle to 100% get the bands in the same place every time and this means aiming off the bands at the forks may not be the best option in the long term. I presume this is easier with clips.
I thought about moving the anchor point slightly but I am using the corner of the mouth and then fixing the anchor in place at the cheek so I have a 2 point reference. It feels by far the most natural and comfortable place for me to anchor to and after trying different types I figured the easiest way would be to make a new frame as an experiment because I don't want to spend money on a new frame if I don't need to.
Just a quick and easy trace around my EVO and then narrowed the frame from 95mm fork width down to 90 and then added the burnt finish.
Just had its first shooting session and 90mm is spot on at 10m. One down side is I have never had any hand slap with the EVO but this one I made slaps me something rotten. Any suggestions to eliminate the slap would be greatly appreciated as the only differences are the frame width and the wood is 2cm thick instead of 1cm on the original EVO.
To compensate I now have to either move my anchor point or or aim a couple of millimetres down the fork which happens to match where the bands are when at full stretch as I look along them. As I use wrap and tuck it is a bit of a fiddle to 100% get the bands in the same place every time and this means aiming off the bands at the forks may not be the best option in the long term. I presume this is easier with clips.
I thought about moving the anchor point slightly but I am using the corner of the mouth and then fixing the anchor in place at the cheek so I have a 2 point reference. It feels by far the most natural and comfortable place for me to anchor to and after trying different types I figured the easiest way would be to make a new frame as an experiment because I don't want to spend money on a new frame if I don't need to.


Just a quick and easy trace around my EVO and then narrowed the frame from 95mm fork width down to 90 and then added the burnt finish.
Just had its first shooting session and 90mm is spot on at 10m. One down side is I have never had any hand slap with the EVO but this one I made slaps me something rotten. Any suggestions to eliminate the slap would be greatly appreciated as the only differences are the frame width and the wood is 2cm thick instead of 1cm on the original EVO.