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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After several months of shooting very little of heavier band/tubes than the dankung 2040 and 1745 using BBs with a small catty I have started to use various cattys in my collection with bigger shot.

I really like Dan's T1 but I couldn't shoot for long, like with dan's fast bands or similar pull weight, without starting to feel discomfort. A pressure point developed on my fingers.

Mind you, the design is great! Though sometimes our hand/finger structure don't match well with a style of catty. For me a slight alteration to the suggested way to hold was all that was needed. Instead of the three fingers, pinky, ring and middle in the handle hole, I only have two pinky and ring fingers. Now I have more control and the pressures are better distributed for the way my hand/finger structure is.

I am very happy to find what works, if the T1 may not be the right size etc for you, try the grip shown below. Maybe I am the only one but my happiness has increased and if this helps so will yours.

Thanks again Dan for a great catty!

Tableware Gesture Tool Thumb Drinkware
Toy Gesture Finger Tool Wood
Hand Arm Toy Gesture Finger
 

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Ray,

Thanks for the alternative grip suggestion; I will give it a go. Where on the frame did you find the pressure built up too much? Was it the thumb and forefinger contact points? It looks to me like you are trying to protect the forefinger 2nd knuckle.

As a frame designed and maker, I have some other ideas. The design is intended to be a compromise between being compact and thin and providing full gripping power. Like all designs with thin, flat forks, long sessions will be an issue. However, certain changes can be made to improve the comfort:

  1. You could move to a full sculpted ergo, but that wouldn't be so pocketable.
  2. A thicker board would be more comfortable and can be dished to increase the contact area and spread the load.
  3. Your hands look a lot bigger than mine. I get all my lower three fingers in the grip hole. The design can be scaled up, or the hole enlarged. See my T2 design for example.
  4. Within the constraints of the flat board concept, if the centre of thrust needs shifting towards the thumb, I can offset the forks accordingly. The T1 is has web centred thrust, the T3 has forefinger centred thrust, the opposite shift would push the thrust further down to the thumb.
Any or all the above can be implemented into one revised design. The larger grip hole of the T2 can be cut into an existing T1 frame. That part of the slingshot is not subject to much stress. Indeed, you can cut away the entire outside of the loop from where your forefinger is in the first picture to the heel at the bottom without affecting the basic grip. I have done this before and it's a legitimate derivation of the design.

If you feel you need a bespoke frame making, you can trade in your existing frame or we can work out a trade me for another slingshot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ray,

Thanks for the alternative grip suggestion; I will give it a go. Where on the frame did you find the pressure built up too much? Was it the thumb and forefinger contact points? It looks to me like you are trying to protect the forefinger 2nd knuckle.

As a frame designed and maker, I have some other ideas. The design is intended to be a compromise between being compact and thin and providing full gripping power. Like all designs with thin, flat forks, long sessions will be an issue. However, certain changes can be made to improve the comfort:

  1. You could move to a full sculpted ergo, but that wouldn't be so pocketable.
  2. A thicker board would be more comfortable and can be dished to increase the contact area and spread the load.
  3. Your hands look a lot bigger than mine. I get all my lower three fingers in the grip hole. The design can be scaled up, or the hole enlarged. See my T2 design for example.
  4. Within the constraints of the flat board concept, if the centre of thrust needs shifting towards the thumb, I can offset the forks accordingly. The T1 is has web centered thrust, the T3 has forefinger centred thrust, the opposite shift would push the thrust further down to the thumb.
Any or all the above can be implemented into one revised design. The larger grip hole of the T2 can be cut into an existing T1 frame. That part of the slingshot is not subject to much stress. Indeed, you can cut away the entire outside of the loop from where your forefinger is in the first picture to the heel at the bottom without affecting the basic grip. I have done this before and it's a legitimate derivation of the design.

If you feel you need a bespoke frame making, you can trade in your existing frame or we can work out a trade me for another slingshot.
Dan,

First, thanks for the kind offer of another or alternate bespoke frame. The T1 is excellent. The fit is great, and I am so satisfied the thought of another didn't cross my mind. I fits all the intended purposes fine. I will say that when I asked if I could make a personal copy of your design with a fatter grip using the same pattern it was for the purpose of spreading the pressure. I didn't need one with a thickened handle part after all.

Part of the adventure of slingshots is portrayed in this instance adaptability. Most any catty will work for anyone if they are patient enough to relax and find the best working position with that catty.

The catty was good with three fingers in the handle, I could shoot as good that way with the catty as any catty I shoot. The pressure point was from many consecutive shots (scores of) with heavier pull bands as I mentioned.

The pressure point is because I hold the catty loosely (and vertically) thereby the forefinger knuckle and thumb act like a fulcrum, so much of the bands pull is transferred in an upward stress on my pinky and ring finger only noticed with many many shots.

With thin frames I agree there is a chance of them being uncomfortable with target practice. With the way you rounded the edges and my new grip I can shoot it as long as any catty now.

There is no deficiency in the catty. One to be put into any collection. Hopefully the intent of my post "adaptability" is the tip that is garnered from any that read this. Wish I titled it "Adaptability". Perhaps I can change the title. I'll try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its a shame you dont shoot gangster, i have had double wide thera band gold on mine, also full 5in thera black, jeff
I am working into it. I will shoot gangster occasionally so that I learn the style better. Sometimes I shoot well that way. The one thing I noticed is with some slingshots in the gangster style I get band slap. I don't naturally flip with gangster so the band slap. I know I could use heavier ammo to counteract that.
 

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If you shoot gangsta, I suggest, you/I modify your T1 for the T2 loop style. It will still shoot vertical just as well (better in your case), but it will make a huge difference for gangsta. I redesigned the T1 as the T2 for just these reasons and only continue to offer the T1 for people that prefer the look of the T1.
 

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It just so happens that I came across an old frame in my workshop. It was a spare I made when I did the Realtree cammo lay-up tutorial. It's fortuitous because these were the only two I made in a slightly larger scale (maybe +10% or +20%. It's thicker too and in a deep lacquer. I plan to send it to you to try out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It just so happens that I came across an old frame in my workshop. It was a spare I made when I did the Realtree cammo lay-up tutorial. It's fortuitous because these were the only two I made in a slightly larger scale (maybe +10% or +20%. It's thicker too and in a deep lacquer. I plan to send it to you to try out.
That is very generous. Thank you. I would be grateful to be able to reciprocate in some way, especially if you liked the Magnetic pouches. I make them in the original size and 3/4 with no holes so they can be trimmed and holed as the user desires. Or something that has been on your mind I can accommodate.
 

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You have to speak to Jeff about shooting the T-Series in gangsta. I bet you'll end up shooting big cammo one as is, but modify the T1 into a T2. As for a trade, don't worry, it's not necessary, but if you do, then yes, I'd love a pouch. I plan to turn it into a magnetic version of on of Darrell's minimalist shooters. I know you're always at pains to make sure you offer a super trade, but in this case, a single pouch will do as my frame it's hung about the shop for half a year because I was never happy enough with the lacquering to offer it for trade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You have to speak to Jeff about shooting the T-Series in gangsta. I bet you'll end up shooting big cammo one as is, but modify the T1 into a T2. As for a trade, don't worry, it's not necessary, but if you do, then yes, I'd love a pouch. I plan to turn it into a magnetic version of on of Darrell's minimalist shooters. I know you're always at pains to make sure you offer a super trade, but in this case, a single pouch will do as my frame it's hung about the shop for half a year because I was never happy enough with the lacquering to offer it for trade.
I'll send you a variety of things. If something isn't of interest to you I am sure you can pass it along to some local(s) you know.

I will have to check out the T2 to see what you mean about the shape. Can't recall it's shape.
 
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