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· Ray Rowden
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3,282 Posts
Yo, Greg!
Here's a rule of thumb based on suggestions from Bill Hays. It will certainly get you into the ballpark with the .60 SS latex.
For a typical face anchor, cut the wide part of the taper 2 times the diameter of steel ammo, 1-1/2 times the diameter of glass or clay ammo, or 3 times the diameter of lead. Pick a number for your narrow end. They could be straight cut. I like a 3:2 ratio for short bands and 2:1 for bands cut for a longer draw.
So you could cut a set tapered 1/2 to 3/8 -inch or 1/2 to 5/16-inch for a short draw, or 1/2 to 1/4-inch for a longer draw. You can reduce the width for longer draw length. I like 1/4-inch straight cuts for butterfly with 1/4-inch steel.
Start with an active band length 1/4 your draw length, and if you need more speed shorten them to 1/5 your draw length.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yo, Greg!
Here's a rule of thumb based on suggestions from Bill Hays. It will certainly get you into the ballpark with the .60 SS latex.
For a typical face anchor, cut the wide part of the taper 2 times the diameter of steel ammo, 1-1/2 times the diameter of glass or clay ammo, or 3 times the diameter of lead. Pick a number for your narrow end. They could be straight cut. I like a 3:2 ratio for short bands and 2:1 for bands cut for a longer draw.
So you could cut a set tapered 1/2 to 3/8 -inch or 1/2 to 5/16-inch for a short draw, or 1/2 to 1/4-inch for a longer draw. You can reduce the width for longer draw length. I like 1/4-inch straight cuts for butterfly with 1/4-inch steel.
Start with an active band length 1/4 your draw length, and if you need more speed shorten them to 1/5 your draw length.
Thanks for the quick reply! I'm guessing this "rule" only applies to .6-.7mm latex?

I think I may try a 1/2" straight cut first. That should work well for 1/4", right?
 

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4,438 Posts
Yo, Greg!
Here's a rule of thumb based on suggestions from Bill Hays. It will certainly get you into the ballpark with the .60 SS latex.
For a typical face anchor, cut the wide part of the taper 2 times the diameter of steel ammo, 1-1/2 times the diameter of glass or clay ammo, or 3 times the diameter of lead. Pick a number for your narrow end. They could be straight cut. I like a 3:2 ratio for short bands and 2:1 for bands cut for a longer draw.
So you could cut a set tapered 1/2 to 3/8 -inch or 1/2 to 5/16-inch for a short draw, or 1/2 to 1/4-inch for a longer draw. You can reduce the width for longer draw length. I like 1/4-inch straight cuts for butterfly with 1/4-inch steel.
Start with an active band length 1/4 your draw length, and if you need more speed shorten them to 1/5 your draw length.
That’s an awesome little nugget of wisdom, Ray. Thanks for sharing. I had to screenshot that one.
 

· Registered
Joined
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699 Posts
Yo, Greg!
Here's a rule of thumb based on suggestions from Bill Hays. It will certainly get you into the ballpark with the .60 SS latex.
For a typical face anchor, cut the wide part of the taper 2 times the diameter of steel ammo, 1-1/2 times the diameter of glass or clay ammo, or 3 times the diameter of lead. Pick a number for your narrow end. They could be straight cut. I like a 3:2 ratio for short bands and 2:1 for bands cut for a longer draw.
So you could cut a set tapered 1/2 to 3/8 -inch or 1/2 to 5/16-inch for a short draw, or 1/2 to 1/4-inch for a longer draw. You can reduce the width for longer draw length. I like 1/4-inch straight cuts for butterfly with 1/4-inch steel.
Start with an active band length 1/4 your draw length, and if you need more speed shorten them to 1/5 your draw length.
I have seen this on Bill's website but now I am going to right it down so I can remember it. Thanks for posting.
 

· Registered
Joined
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764 Posts
Yo, Greg!
Here's a rule of thumb based on suggestions from Bill Hays. It will certainly get you into the ballpark with the .60 SS latex.
For a typical face anchor, cut the wide part of the taper 2 times the diameter of steel ammo, 1-1/2 times the diameter of glass or clay ammo, or 3 times the diameter of lead. Pick a number for your narrow end. They could be straight cut. I like a 3:2 ratio for short bands and 2:1 for bands cut for a longer draw.
So you could cut a set tapered 1/2 to 3/8 -inch or 1/2 to 5/16-inch for a short draw, or 1/2 to 1/4-inch for a longer draw. You can reduce the width for longer draw length. I like 1/4-inch straight cuts for butterfly with 1/4-inch steel.
Start with an active band length 1/4 your draw length, and if you need more speed shorten them to 1/5 your draw length.
I may be overbanded , I switched to 1/4 , cut bands 5/8 x 5/16 and 7.5 " long active , I have a hair over 32 short draw length,, am I doing this wrong? should I shorten my bands and cut more narrow?? I still am a long way from figuring this stuff out,, shooting at 10M now, if that matters
 

· Ray Rowden
Joined
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3,282 Posts
I may be overbanded , I switched to 1/4 , cut bands 5/8 x 5/16 and 7.5 " long active , I have a hair over 32 short draw length,, am I doing this wrong? should I shorten my bands and cut more narrow?? I still am a long way from figuring this stuff out,, shooting at 10M now, if that matters
I tend to band lighter than a lot of shooters, AND I usually like my bands cut to about 1/4 my draw length - but that seems to work for me.
Hey, you might have found a sweet spot! If this cut is giving you good performance and good band life, don't change it! This kind of Rule of Thumb advice is just to help individual shooter get in the ball park. This is a real "My shooter, my rules" kind of sport. Experiment all you like and go with what works for you!
 
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