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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Dayhiker asked me to repolish the fork hits out of his Cougar. Inspired by Joerg's own Desert Ironwood modified Cougar, he had me stick some slabs on it as part of the refurbishment project.

I thought I'd share some pics before I post it back.









I would have liked to bring the carbon fibre up the fork arms to make a more ergonomically fitted handle, but that would have required covering up the logos and Bill had asked me to "make it like Jörg's". I used very thick carbon fibre slabs and spacers too, so the resulting handle is about 1.1" thick. It's polished smooth but offers plenty of grip.
 

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Fantastic work! I am much honored that my design is already getting customized.

I have never seen carbon fiber boards that thick! Thickest I get here is 5 mm. And if I round it, the edges look nothing like the original top. I think they put on some kind film to make it looking more sleek.

BTW, my "Desert Ironwood" Cougar is on its way to Tom (Bunnybuster), who wanted it so much that I could not say no. I don't do that very often, but for Tom, I am happy to make an exception.

Regards

Jörg
 

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The carbon fibre fabric in these sheets are very expensive. Many suppliers use carbon only for the face sheet as a decorative veneer; the lower sheets are probably Micarta or at best G10. I was lucky to get a couple of sheets of this stuff from another maker who had super thick sheets of pure carbon fibre. This stuff is both structurally rigid and carves to show layers and layers of carbon. You can tell it's real because it conducts heat better than G-10. The main drawback is it really destroys saw blades. A cut 7mm is all I can get out of a fretsaw blade before all the teeth are gone. A bandsaw blade lasts maybe 14mm. The only way to cut it is with a carbide tipped circular saw or sanded on an abrasive belt. It destroys belts too. Drilling isn't a problem, as long as you have a sharp bit, do it wet and clamp the piece down really hard to a sacrificial back to prevent blow out at the back. There is no cure for the carbon itch, though. Your skin gets these invisible and impossible to remove micro-splinters. I get black snot too, even when I wear a mask. You're in trouble if you get fibres in your eyes too. The veneer stuff isn't quite so nasty and is best for applications where strength is not so important and you don't see the edge, like inlays.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
BTW Jörg, how did you attach the slabs? I believe pins are necessary unless you cut the wood block to fill the voids. My process:

  1. Rough shape the slabs
  2. Epoxy (3-ton rating) on spacers
  3. Predrill the slabs
  4. Pre-shape the top of the slabs on a belt sander
  5. Radius the top with a 10mm radius
  6. Flatten the tang
  7. Sand tang to a 40-grit finish to key it
  8. Attach one slab
  9. Fill the voids with epoxy and cure for a bit
  10. Re-flat the tang
  11. Re-drill the holes with a step drill
  12. Epoxy the second slab in place
  13. Re-drill the first slab and seat the holes with a step drill
  14. Seat the holes in the second slab
  15. Clean up excess epoxy with a brass scraper
  16. Epoxy and screw in the Corby bolts
  17. Sand the Corby bolts flat taking care not to over heat them
  18. Sand the handle profile
  19. Radius and shape the handle
  20. Finish working up the grits and polish
 

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Love it!

I simply filled the holes in the steel frame with epoxy putty, then roughened the steel surface with sand paper and epoxied the grips to the frame.

Of course I used clamps to really press the grips on.

This seems to hold very good, maybe because of the epoxy clay. I tried to loosen them with the rubber hammer, but they held on.

Regards

Jörg
 

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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
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Beautiful slingshot, it will last a lifetime!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, epoxy putty is a good way to fill the voids.

One thing I'd recommend though, is that if people who are reading this are gluing slabs onto a tang (be it on a knife or slingshot) do not clamp too hard or you'll push out all the glue from the gap and the join will lack strength. Jörg's used epoxy putty which forms a connecting layer between the sides and even then it would be better if the clamp was firm but light.
 

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Great work, Dan!!! This is amazing -- Can't wait to get my hands on this. I'm amazed at your work, and your taste is impeccable. I can't find the words to thank you enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks, Bill. I'm just glad you like my choice of materials, seeing as I deviated from the spec. I guess that's what I meant by "Desert Ironwood, subject to whim."

Anyway, it's in the post (I caught the post office closing by 5 seconds! LOL. Let us know how you find it.
 

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If I wanted to buy this beautiful sling shot ........ what would be the price ?

Have Fun
PTL
You would have to be willing to let me adopt you. Then I would leave it to you in my will.


Can't you see I'm in love?
 

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ZDP you have really shown your skill and experience again!!!! Fabulous!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
PapaTL, you can always make Bill an offer! If I was in the business of doing this, I'd want upwards of $50 for the modification.

Personally, I'm a fan of your work and am open to trades for finished work or billets of carbon fibre. You certainly have the skills to fit it yourself.
 
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