Chilbro
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385 Posts
nice
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1,867 Posts
That's about right, but the original was a little too thin for me anyway. It's about as long as your hand and fits into your pocket ...
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Looks great by the way.
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1,249 Posts
Interesting idea, the Dankung tubes would definitely provide superior performance to the square rubber the Milbro design typically utilises. Just out of interest what program are you using for these technical diagrams and does it have a good free or open-source alternative?
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3,228 Posts
Microsoft PowerPoint. Image capture and resizing with Microsoft Paint. Open Office maybe an open source alternative, but I don't know how to draw using it.
Chinese bands can actually be done with single holes.
Pete, will you sell me one of your Milbro Copies?
Chinese bands can actually be done with single holes.
Pete, will you sell me one of your Milbro Copies?
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Oh OK, what about your 3d renders? I want to be able to print my designs out to an exact measurement, for templates.
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1,497 Posts
DAN I JUST SENT YOU A PM
Pete
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2,950 Posts
Great idea ZDP, I like your renderings.
You can do them on a milbro just like on a natural, only you need slightly thicker tubes than what I have, or slightly smaller holes or they tend to slip and need to be adjusted often,
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You can do them on a milbro just like on a natural, only you need slightly thicker tubes than what I have, or slightly smaller holes or they tend to slip and need to be adjusted often,
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10,979 Posts
I have this wicked sharp pair of scissors and. . . just kidding.
Angle grinder and dremel and carbide-tipped drill bit.
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3,228 Posts
If you don't mind, I have experience cutting such things. The brute force approach can work, but it can also be frustrating, inaccurate and can leave stress fractures. If it's a hardened blade, you should fully anneal or at least over-temper the blade.
If it's HSS, you're out of luck.
If it's a carbide tipped circular saw blade, I haven't experience cutting them.
For your application you don't need edge holding, so why not use mild steel or something else easier to cut. Milbro fork arms are narrow, so you'll need 4mm mild steel or 6mm aluminium.
If it's HSS, you're out of luck.
If it's a carbide tipped circular saw blade, I haven't experience cutting them.
For your application you don't need edge holding, so why not use mild steel or something else easier to cut. Milbro fork arms are narrow, so you'll need 4mm mild steel or 6mm aluminium.
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After he contacted me, I was going to make this as a gift for Pete, but it looks like he has his own similar, but very exciting plans so I'll move onto new projects. As a parting comment on this idea, having spoken to danny on this, I have come to the conclusion that it would probably be quite dangerous as drawn if cast in thin aluminium. The 'open ears' design in Chinese slingshots depends on a thick section of laser cut stainless steel. This design is much weaker for these reasons:
If a similar design is implemented, then it should use 'closed ears' rather than 'open ears' which have a slot for more mechanical strength. The 'ears' should be more built up, possibly utilising a flange and the arms should be engineered to bend rather than fail at one point. The whole design must be extensively tested before marketing.
If you're having trouble with terminology of Chinese tubes with terms like 'ears', please refer to danny's thread on Mel's forum (Link).
- Aluminum is more likely to flex and fatigue than stainless
- Castings are weaker than cut billet
- The Milbro is thinner than Chinese ball-in-tube slingshots
- The ears as drawn show weaker a form than the Chinese design
- Any casting flaws or inconsistent finishing could be catastrophic. Pete has a high standard of work, but the potential is there
If a similar design is implemented, then it should use 'closed ears' rather than 'open ears' which have a slot for more mechanical strength. The 'ears' should be more built up, possibly utilising a flange and the arms should be engineered to bend rather than fail at one point. The whole design must be extensively tested before marketing.
If you're having trouble with terminology of Chinese tubes with terms like 'ears', please refer to danny's thread on Mel's forum (Link).
Thanks. That looks like a good idea and closer to the original design. Another idea would be to simply engineer a hole suitable for a single Chinese Tube in a 'closed ears' configuiration, but both ideas still need testing before being promoted commercially.
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Dan, it's just that I have a few of these carbide-tipped saw blades to make knives with and I'm not into knives right now. They do make nice knives, though. But you are correct. Maybe I will wait til I can get a piece of ally.
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