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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will try to be as concise as possible - apologies for the long winded theoretical question...

Lets say we have a bandset that shoots 6mm steel at 250fps, and also shoots 8mm steel at 200fps. I think this is reasonable...

The faster traveling, lighter ball will loose less height at least at shorter ranges - but, because it's lighter and traveling faster, it looses more of its speed as it travels.

The question is, at how long a range is the drop of the heavier 8mm ball (that is initially traveling slower) equal to the drop of the lighter 6mm ball?

Alternatively, is there a simple trajectory-plotting software for spherical objects?

I'm trying to figure out if this distance has practical application in ammo choice - given a bandset of desirable draw weight.

Thank you!
 

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I don't have a detailed answer for you but do know that there are good ballistics calculators out there that can even account for the ballistic coefficient of a spherical ball. I bet somebody here will chime in with a more precise answer, maybe even a good rec for an easy to use ballistics program.
 

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As was said, there are ballistics calculators available online. Hawke ChairGun was once popular but I'm not sure if it's still around.


A couple of years ago I was spending a lot of time shooting targets with slingshots at long distances. I started at 20 yards and was fine with 3/8" steel ammo. I went to 30 yards and still did okay but I bumped up my draw weight to help flatten the trajectory. At 40 yards the 3/8" ball had an arc that was very loopy. I was already at my max comfortable draw weight and would rather pull lighter for precision shooting. I ended up trying 5/16" steel ammo for a while and that was great for out to 50 yards. Then I went to 75 yards and had to drop the ammo size down to 1/4" and 7mm size to keep a flatter trajectory and maintain an anchor point on my ear. I was able to hit a pie plate at 75 yards but definitely not with every shot. A 20% hit ratio was about it with my ability. I remember trying 3/8" steel at 75 yards and watched as the ball flew out and appeared to get sucked down to the ground about 20 yards in front of the target. Holdover was too extreme for 75 yards using 3/8" at my desired draw weight. I couldn't maintain an anchor point on my ear so it was guesswork with my aiming method.

Bill Hays was the king of long distance shooting. He has a video of hitting a pop can at 400'.
 

· So Many Marbles ------------- So Little Time ;-)
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This may be just what the Dr ordered. Used it years ago, not sure if it is up and running now ;- )

wll

Update, yes it is up and running although it is a little quirky ;- )
 

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Question: When shooting at a distance, how much does my ammo slow down?
Answer: We've actually done quite a few tests on this very subject.
When comparing ammo of the same diameter, the denser it is the less it slows down due to air resistance... Which means, i.e. that if you're standing next to a chrony and shoot a .44 lead ball (123 grains) at 220 fps.... then step back to 10 meters and shoot again, the ball will register about 218 fps... whereas a 7/16" steel ball (84 grains, .437 diameter) of about the same diameter as the .44, will start at about 240 fps and at 10 meters will register at about 230 fps.
So in 10 meters of travel a .44 lead ball drops in velocity about 2 fps, a steel ball of the same diameter drops about 9-12 fps (depending on air density, ie. elevation)... and a 7/16" marble (35 grains) drops about 20-30 fps (air density) per 10 meters.
At 20 meters the dropped fps values are almost exactly doubled.

What this tells us is that so long as you have a good "fps/power cushion" built into your setup.... like for example, it takes 200 fps to make sure of a clean kill on a rabbit using .44 lead... then if your starting fps is 220, you will still have enough "left in the tank" to be deadly out to 100 meters, so long as you can shoot accurately enough at that distance.
If you wanted to match the power output of the .44 lead with the 7/16" steel balls, your maximum range is about 20 meters.
The 7/16" marbles never would match even the steel balls and would have to start at close to 300 fps to even be minimally deadly at 10 meters. And at 20 meters it would be a fluke shot if they did any real damage on a rabbit or squirrel sized animal.
 

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This may be just what the Dr ordered. Used it years ago, not sure if it is up and running now ;- )

wll

Update, yes it is up and running although it is a little quirky ;- )

So I spent some time using this ballistic calculator and absolutely LOVE it! Easy to use but still has all the necessary adjustment features (ammo diameter, ammo weight, sight height- play with this a while to make it equiv to fork width, starting velocity, etc.). Also one of the simplest bal calc's I have found. An excellent tool for predicting trajectories for slingshot balls.
 

· So Many Marbles ------------- So Little Time ;-)
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So I spent some time using this ballistic calculator and absolutely LOVE it! Easy to use but still has all the necessary adjustment features (ammo diameter, ammo weight, sight height- play with this a while to make it equiv to fork width, starting velocity, etc.). Also one of the simplest bal calc's I have found. An excellent tool for predicting trajectories for slingshot balls.
Glad you like it .... I used it a lot when I was doing testing, no guess work....

wll
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you all for your input! I've found what I was looking for. I've played with the muzzleloader online tool as well - thank you wll!

I'll download and play with jazz's software tonight. Being a geek myself, I enjoyed the video too...

Northerner's practical experience was very useful - if you want to reach longer without adding weight to your draw, use lighter ammo.

High Desert Flipper, what sight height value are you using in the simulator?

Thanks to everyone again.
 

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Thank you all for your input! I've found what I was looking for. I've played with the muzzleloader online tool as well - thank you wll!

I'll download and play with jazz's software tonight. Being a geek myself, I enjoyed the video too...

Northerner's practical experience was very useful - if you want to reach longer without adding weight to your draw, use lighter ammo.

High Desert Flipper, what sight height value are you using in the simulator?

Thanks to everyone again.

I am dividing fork width by 2 for the sight height in the simulator- I think this is close for initial angle of elevation at release when using an anchor that is close to eye level or just a bit below. The results the calculator give from this are good matches for what I have been seeing while testing different fork widths.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I am dividing fork width by 2 for the sight height in the simulator- I think this is close for initial angle of elevation at release when using an anchor that is close to eye level. The results the calculator give from this are good matches for what I have been seeing while testing different fork widths.
Thank you. That makes sense...
 
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