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Hi,

I'm new to the sport, but have watched many of Joerg's videos on youtube. The videos are very good and I learned a lot by watching them. I had some old copper pipe so I decided to make a slingshot. It's not pretty, but it shoots really well compared to the store bought Barnett I have and it is very accurate. I was amazed at how well the Theraband gold bands work and how accurate it turned out (especially since I'd never made one before). Here are some photos:

http://imgur.com/r4rDO&9Efwwl&zbbRF&Xs21M
http://imgur.com/r4rDO&9Efww&zbbRF&Xs21Ml

I just wanted to share the photos and thank Joerg for the great videos. If I can build one, then anyone can.

Brad
 

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"Southern Flip Style"
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Cool!!!! Now that gives new meaning to the phrase "The Plumbers Friend"!!!!
Great job!!! Welcome to the forum. Let's see some pics of it banded up and shooting.
 

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I forgot how many plumbers we had here!
Great job everyone! It was nice to see them again!
 

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Dude... why in Thor's name would you want to make it STRONGER??? What is the size of your arms?
 

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I have worked with copper pipe for water supply and it is easy to crush it. I was aking a question to determine if it was thick pipe or thin pipe. I thought I would make myself one and wanted to know what he did to make his, That is all.
 

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Well, I made one today. I couldn't find my tubing cutter so I ended up using a hacksaw. I made the forks too tall. Once I find my tubing cutter I will make another. It is a fun and easy project.
 

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I used 1/2 inch pipe because that is what I had on hand. I ended up with three slingshots made out of 1/2 inch copper pipe. I thing 3/4 inch would be a better size, maybe 1 inch in daimeter. Any comments would be appreciated.
 

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I have worked with copper pipe for water supply and it is easy to crush it. I was aking a question to determine if it was thick pipe or thin pipe. I thought I would make myself one and wanted to know what he did to make his, That is all.

Oh yeah. . . I forgot about that thin stuff. Wouldn't even use that sh*t on water.

Cheers, Bill
 

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What copper pipe did you use? Is anything inside the copper pipe to make it stronger?
I used 3/4 inch type L copper pipe. It is hollow inside with no filling of any sort. I believe that type L is the "medium" thickness. Look closely at the pipe in this photo: http://i.imgur.com/zbbRF.jpg you can read its specifications.

I have shot it about 300 times since I finished it. I mostly shoot rocks and pebbles, but have tried some small steel shot too. It has held-up well. I have hit the right fork 3 times very hard with some larger rocks. It has a small ding in it from that, but nothing major. It is very functional and accurate. The method Joerg teaches in his youtube videos is very good and makes for sturdy slingshots. I'm very pleased with it.

I can hit coke cans at 30 feet regularly. I don't know if that is good compared to more experienced shooters, but I do know it is more accurate than the Barnett I purchased.

I also want to thank everyone for the comments, while I can't respond to them all, I really appreciate everything!

Brad
 

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I looked at the hardware store and decided to use 1/2 inch copper pipe for my slingshots. The 3/4 inch stuff that was there is too thin. The 1/2 inch stuff was thicker in the walls. They shoot well with marbles and 45 caliber lead balls, depending on which bands I tie on them. This project gave me the opportunity to experiment with fork width and height. I have found that a two inch spread between the forks is right for me. I made the fork height 2 1/4 inches, 2 inches, and 1 1/2 inches and tried various band strengths. My commercial slingshots have a 2.5 to 3 inch spread between the forks and the forks are high at 2.5 to 3 inches. For the wrist braced slingshots that is ok, but the handheld slingshots cause me to shake with the commercial tubes for the various wrist braced singshots with a fork height of 2 inches. I cut two pieces of copper at 1.5 inches and soldered them to the Tee and fired a couple of shots with a tapered Dankung blue bands that came with my Cougar Slingshot, cut at 3 inches to 1.5 inches and 8 inches in length. With the 2 inch and 2.25 inch fork heights, and a 2 inch spread between the forks, my left support hand was shaking at full draw when I reached my anchor point at the center of the side of my right jaw bone, even though I shoot a 55 lb pull recurve bow at least once a week. The experts here are correct, you can shoot strong bands with a short fork height ( 1.5 inches in my case) without shaking at full draw. These simple slingshots made out of copper pipe taught me a few lessons about slingshot design. First is fork height on the old time commercial slingshots are to wide and high for accurate shooting in my case and shooting style (flip), and I now know why Fish makes such small slingshots for hunting, and the second lesson is that low fork height, non-wrist braced slingshots are just as powerfull as the wrist braced slingshots, and a lot easier to carry around with you. Copper may not be the ideal material for the construction of slingshots, and my soldering makes me wonder about durabiity of the joints, but if you do not have access to welding equipment, it is a good way to experiment with slingshot design to find out what works best for you. Finally, read and follow the advice of some of the more experienced makers and shooters on this site, they know what they are talking about. Thanks gentlemen for the advice published on this site. You have opened my eyes and changed the way I think about slingshots. Now if I can find an excuse to take a road trip to Katy, Texas I think I will buy my second Cougar slingshot. I think that highly of the design and want to have two on hand at all times.
Trent
Lake Jackson, Texas
 

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By the way, I wrapped all three of my copper pipe slingshots with black electrical tape. The only copper that is showing is the end caps on the forks and handle.
 

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Great job and nice write up Trent.....any pics?
 
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