I'm an old guy. I've been cutting my own bands and using elk hide to make pouches for years. Long ago I worked out the details to get the leather to form a permanent cup and so have had no shedding of the ball and hence have not had a fork hit in years. But I'm getting tired of cutting my own...
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I had produced some S165 die cut pouches (slingshooting.com). The GZK micro fibre I have was way too weak. The centre hole stretch over the ball (8mm) at full draw once. Scared the !# out me the first time. Dangerous. So I looked right into what I could do with this Faux suede. Answer, Laminating pouches. I got right into it and have learnt well. I spoke to Rayshot and he's a top bloke. From as much info as I could get, this is a reverse engineered navy seal pouch.
From the previous discussion in the link above, Valery suggested using boiling water. Brilliant, a stroke of genius. It works like a charm. As you can see in the picture below. I used a clamp and place the pouch in boiling water for a minute. Superb.
Nice work.
My technique might be a little lazier. There is usually a cup of coffee or similar on the desk when I'm working on stuff so I toss the pouch - usually leather - into the cup for a minute or two and then clamp the appropriately ammo ball into the pouch. Let it dry while clamped for a day and you have a nice formed pouch.
They work great.
Yours look more professional than mine but hey, I'm just muddling along pretending to act all grown up when required.......
Congratulations Reed on becoming a Super moderator. I remember when you joined. The forum is in good hands 😊😎.
The answer to your question is in the negative. The rifle produces 118m/s 387fps with 8mm steel (max). The draw is 725mm long. The best I have done in power was 10mm lead (93.4m/s) (306fps) (19fpe)
with a 1mm sheshou guru and a theraband gold combined. 5 shot and it was gone.
The laminated cupped pouches are slightly heavy. I cant remember exactly, about half a gram more than a straight microfibre one. The straight microfibre one stretch too much and are too weak for heavy bands.
The advantage of this contraption is the ability to hold heavy bands accurately. 50x20x1mm shehsou guru with a 10mm steel producing about 87m/s 285fps. What that does to a hard tin can is really nice. I am looking forward to turning some vermin birds into a clouds of feathers. The rifle needed a lot of vibration dampening. Now with these cupped pouches, I shot 15 rounds into a 1 inch circle at 10 yards bench rested.
The cupped laminated pouches are strong and very accurate with the mechanical release.
Really interesting. Thanks for sharing. I was using my own leather pouches but switched to some pit pouches because i got a free batch with an order. I agree the holes stretch too much and you don't get much life out of them. I was thinking of going back to the home made leather ones but the thickness was a bit of a concern. Now this thread solved the problem for me. Cheers guys.
The information is certainly out there. Ripstop fabric is all around us. I found a old bit of luggage on the side of the road. Tried it. Rubbish too thin. I looked up some info and found you could weigh it to get the grade. Studying the navy seal pouch and tried to make some calculations on what grade it was. It must be very close. You can check thru some of my previous posts and join the dots to make your own.
On other thing which is not apparent in the pictures is a relief cut from the end hole where the band goes thru to the centre of the pouch. 3-5mm, If you don't make this cut you might have a difficult time getting the bands thru. I pull my bands thru with forceps.
Some one could write a book with all the information on this site. A bit like the "Nuts and bolts of Archery".
I like to take those SS microfiber pouches, stick the ball in them, hold them by the holes end and then heat each side with a lighter. It’ll shrink up just enough to get the job done. Probably not the most preferable method, and looks crappy, but works!
Thanks Konrad for the pouch molding credit. I’ve bee wondered how that might work out. I think Victor was the first to jump in and I’m glad to see the idea has caught on. I’m rarely on the Forum these days. I still shoot most days and have never gone back to leather. The boiling water technique I just read about looks like a cleaner technique but I still use a regular old lighter. I figure if it takes 5 seconds it’s taken about a second longer than necessary.
I’ve never had a failure with a cupped synthetic pouch yet.
Thanks Winnie, I never got to speak to you. I appreciate your input. They are great especially on the slingshot rifle. I hit 28 out of 30 times on a coke can at 28 yards. Even hit a 20mm spinner at that distance. They help line up the veritcal axis on the pouch. Really helpful and a great Idea. I saw Blue Skeen using the leather cupped pouches on a Starship. The Ripstop is not so great, I stick to cotton. Other wise, fantastic. Great idea. Your opinion is valued by me.
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