All his information is no information, only negative slanted statements applicable to most wood and all oil finishes. He is the only person I have ever heard completely negative on linseed oil, other "authorities" many much more qualified than he are positive about linseed and other oils, acknowledging the fact that there are other very efficient and some better synthetic protective products.

I have a gallon of linseed oil with no harmful additives which make it non poisonous and it's not prone to auto combustion. As for drying time, I can tell you more in a week, I have a frame beginning its third day of soaking right now. Will know about drying time soon enough.

 

He is coming from the viewpoint of a general woodworker building large scale stuff. For a slingshot that you'll be taking decent care of i.e. not leaving it out in the elements, its cost effectiveness can't be beat. Plus, the feel and patina of a well used slingshot is just dreamy.

 

linseed oil is awesome. i will never stop using it. i have heard of the combustion thing but that just adds a fun element of danger!

 

To be honest the part that kind of freaked me out was the carcinogens he mentioned. I will have to really look at the hazards before I saturate something I that will be in contact with my skin for periods of time. Like I said, I was just doing research for my own use and would never ask anyone to stop using something they favor. I found the part about the drying time and remaining tacky interesting having never used that material. We will see I guess.

 

From what I am reading (not just the link above) there are the two types: raw and boiled. What kind are folks here using for their frames. After looking at the MSDS for the raw varient it is listed as no carcinogens so that is good, but is that the type that is used? For the boiled the MSDS varied from manufacturer to manufacturer with some listing carcinogens and others not so on the boiled it looks like you have to read the warnings associated with the brand if that is the type being used.

http://www.cargill.com/wcm/groups/public/@ccom/documents/document/iol-msds-astm-raw-linseed.pdf

Sorry for the questions but I do like the look that linseed gives the frames I have seen but if it is a health hazard I will have to pass. So I guess the question is raw or boiled?

 

Most people buff the piece with beeswax too

 

ive always used boiled here. and i don't know about carcinogens.... i apply it with my bare hands too... so that would suck. but i just doubt the carcinogen thing....

 

Every manufacturer has an MSDS sheet available at their website. Easy enough to find out.

 

http://woodworking.com/ww/Article/Boiled_Linseed_Oil_Toxic__7448.aspx

The brand I have been using "Sunnyside BLO" Material Safety Data Sheet:
http://www.sunnysidecorp.com/pdf/msds872.pdf

Section 6: "Health Hazard Data"
Skin Contact: Sensitive individual may experience dermatitis.

I just wash my hands after applying it...

 

http://woodworking.c...oxic__7448.aspx

The brand I have been using "Sunnyside BLO" Material Safety Data Sheet:
http://www.sunnyside...pdf/msds872.pdf

Section 6: "Health Hazard Data"
Skin Contact: Sensitive individual may experience dermatitis.

I just wash my hands after applying it...

Section 11
California Proposition 65: This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer, and birth defects or other reproductive harm.

I guess that is my next question. When linseed oil "dries" is it completely dry or is it like every other oil I have used and still oily? After reading it outloud I know it sounds like a stupid question but I am just curious.

 

I use gloves. Duh.

 

 

I wish that these warnings were a bit more clear.
Like, what type of exposure in what amount for what length of time cause what kinds of cancer and who did the research.
Also, what other substances are on California's list?

It doesnt make me take it lightly, but it is so unspecific that it has little informative value. It only incites a reason to do more research into the specifics.

Also, rubber gloves are cheap!

 

I agree. I worked with a lot of exotic chemicals while in the military and always use the proper PPE. But you just never know with these chemicals. All MSDS testing is supposed to meet OSHA requirements but who really knows how long it would take if it ever happened in the first place. No different than someone smoking. A person could get cancer in a matter of years or live their entire life with no issue. I alway opt on the safe side, which is why I was curious about how the linseed dries.

 

Yeah... This is making me a little shy about BLO.
The Cobalt, manganese, and diethylene glycol are in very small amounts in BLO all less than 5%, but still.
I am giving some thought to using the raw stuff.
And having to learn patience while it dries could be character building.
...now I am wondering about the polyurethane too.

 

I'm having a hard time finding the raw oil.

 

Amazon has the raw oil...

 

When you start looking into it, almost everything we use industrially contains carcinogens. I remember seeing somewhere that more common methods for curing bacon leave carcinogens on the meat, meaning that delicious sarnie is even worse for you than previously thought. But as has been said above, the warnings are so flimsy, lacking in figures and any real kind of advice, that it becomes all too tempting to just ignore them. Which as a matter of fact is what I do. If it's 'Light Use' I don't stress about it, life's too short. Of course for something like spending 20minutes+ running a beltsander i'll use PPE etc.

That's a point. Wood dust is carcinogenic too. Hate to worry people

Eddie.

 

I don't know if its any better but i use teak oil, that dry's out quickly and as far as im aware has never done me any harm

 

All good points. The reason I raised the question in the first place isn't because I am trying to cause a panic. I have watched countless "instructional" videos, here and on youtube, on using boiled linseed oil as well as other chemicals, where the "instructor" uses no PPE at all. After a quarter century in the military and using some pretty exotic chemicals, and seeing the negative long term effects of the "light use" chemicals, I decided to research this for my own use. I think that any community such as this, where there are folks new to wood working and chemical use, it is wrong to not at least consider the negative health effects these things can have. Face it, many people get into a hobby like this with little to no training in safety or PPE. Like I said above, I am not trying to disuade anyone from using whatever their hearts desire. I was just sharing information that I found interesting for myself and has not been highligted in any instructional video I have seen.

This was not intended to challenge anyone beliefs or change anyones minds; simply information.

 

Very interesting. I suppose I have always thought kindly of linseed, but the difference in odor between "boiled" and "raw" is night and day. That must mean the boiled contains more volatile compounds, and the subsequent ill health affects. Good thing I don't live in California....

 

Haha, that's right. I tried to order some two part boat varnish (Epifanes) that some of the best boat builders use, and the website said it doesn't ship to California.

We suck.

 

It looks like Helman's Spar Urethane can cause cancer too. Check the "Directions".
Flammable, harmful vapour, can cause nervous system damage, birth defects, cancer, permanent brain damage, and death.
http://www.minwax.ca...n-spar-urethane

I have a can of Minwax Antique Oil Finish and it says the cancer warning and vapour warnings too.

Even some floor cancer causing chemicals.
http://environment.about.com/od/greenlivingdesign/a/floor_wax.htm

I wonder if any oil finish is 100% safe. Maybe gunstock finishes such as Tru-Oil and LinSpeed would be okay?

Cheers,
Northerner

 

I use walnut oil.

 

Watco Danish Oil also has the cancer warning on the can.

Cheers,
Northerner

 

Keep in mind that EVERYTHING causes cancer in the state of California

 

Anyone thought about looking up latex for similar problems?