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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If i were to use flat exercise bands for my slingshot, would you recommend the medium power(blue) or the very thick(green) bands they are over an inch wide.
Thanks
 

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It depends. Both will do the job.

Thinner bands are a little faster and thicker bands last longer.

In any case you will use as much width or bands to achieve sufficient pull you need to pull the weight of the shot.

Weaker bands allow you to shoot lighter ammo faster and more accurately. Heavier bands mean you can shoot heavy shot to hunt with without too much folding or too many bands.

Most bands are between 0.5mm and 0.75mm thick. If in doubt, go light and work up.
 

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It depends. Both will do the job.

Thinner bands are a little faster and thicker bands last longer.

In any case you will use as much width or bands to achieve sufficient pull you need to pull the weight of the shot.

Weaker bands allow you to shoot lighter ammo faster and more accurately. Heavier bands mean you can shoot heavy shot to hunt with without too much folding or too many bands.

Most bands are between 0.5mm and 0.75mm thick. If in doubt, go light and work up.
Good advice, i use the black or blue stuff, but like this answer depends what you are shooting, and what at, jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah I think I'll go with the green bands they are powerful and I need to launch a 150 grain lead projectile to humanely kill pest. Another problem, what kinds of materials do you use to secure powerful bands to the frame of the slingshot. I dont want the bands to slip off because the pull is to much for the securing materials to take. Thanks guys for the good advice, much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Need your experience guys
. So I was wondering whether to use the thicker green bands for more power or the medium power blue bands. I need power for my slingshots so maybe an alternative to using the green bands, i could use double layer blue bands to get the same power needed. Which do you recommend, is there any advantage to using double layer instead of a single thick piece. Ahh.. just getting the bands right is hurting my brain
. Thanks for the help guys
 

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Tex-shooter
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More speed and less life with the double thinner bands. -- Tex
 

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a bunch of thinner bands will do the job

with thick bands I've only got one thing, much sweat and pain in your arm and wrist, and an occasional whip in the face


good luck!
 

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I use Danskin yoga bands and they work well for me. I'm new to flatbands to not the best at cutting them but get good life out of them. I prefer the heaver bans myself. One way to put them on is to use a strip of the band itself wrapped very tight.
 

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OK don't shoot me but I use electrical ties, I have limited fine motor function in my right hand so tying is a bear and this works well for me, never had a problem with it either.
 

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Tex-shooter
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I don't know how many times I have posted this. Anything sharp or blunt on the fork tips, will cause bands to break right in front of the pouch faster, because of brusing of the rubber when hitting the tips. Cable ties are fine, but remove sharp edges or cover them (with tape maybe). -- Tex
 

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Gotcha Tex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good info thanks guys. What about tappering on the flats. Is it necessary. Anyway im really a noob when it comes to flatbands, so what is the decission i should make if i were to hunt rats (tough as **** rats) will the double thinner bands work or should i get the thick green ones. Thanks again, sorry for asking so many questions haha.
 

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This is how I have been tying bands most lately:

Double Theraband Gold is super strong, so I changed to double ties. Each tie is in a sharp square sided slot about as wide as the tie-band. The tying bands must be of a comparable or higher thickness as the force band. You have to check the entire bandset and forks regularly. Tensioned elastic loses its elasticity and that may affect the ability of a tie band to hold on.



If the fork is narrower than the band, I roll the band symmetrically. The corners of the fork can severely damage a band. If a band comes loose or tears at the fork end, it won't be pretty, and neither will your face.

This is the way I tie bands. I use about 5/16" x 3" of tie band per tie. I bind the band roll with a couple of tight passes, then place a ribbon loop on along the draw band, then bind over with another 8 passes, till I start to run out of tie band length and then use the ribbon loop to pull through half the tie band till I end up with a bight. This allows me to (usually) quickly get the band off without having to cut the band. Used tie bands should be thrown not re-used, but cutting them may damage the fork.



I also think it's more attractive this way. This is how it looks with only a single band:

 

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If you have any doubt about what it'd take, err on the side of more energy. These bands are available for purchase from forum member fish. They are untapered and just totally brutal to both target and shooter. Both my friend and I pull them and our elbows creak. Something in that joint is at the point of near-failure. I could not pull heavier bands and hope to hit anything. You need .40 cal or heavier lead shot to take advantage of these bands.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ZDP thank you for taking time to explain now my head feels lighter
. I think I'll do double bands like yours, and i love .45 cal leadshots they really pack a punch. In terms of power do you think hunting tube bands can stand up to Flats. Btw nice slingshot you got there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok got a question. if i wanted to straighten some curled up bands, should i submerge them in hot/warm water. and for how long. But will this damage or weaken the bands ?
 

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Why straighten? They'll pull straight. If they're dammaged, don't use them, though.

There's nothing wrong with tubes. Tubes vs solid vs flats will often troll up a big slanging match, but slingshots are simple things and they'll all do the job. Inner tyres, rubber stationary bands and even bunches of condoms have been shown to work and be strong enough to hunt with.

Get into this hobby and find your limits before worrying about small things like band thicknesses, tapers and compounds.
 

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"Southern Flip Style"
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If you have any doubt about what it'd take, err on the side of more energy. These bands are available for purchase from forum member fish. They are untapered and just totally brutal to both target and shooter. Both my friend and I pull them and our elbows creak. Something in that joint is at the point of near-failure. I could not pull heavier bands and hope to hit anything. You need .40 cal or heavier lead shot to take advantage of these bands.
Just for forum members information. I also make and sell a "ultra power band assembly" at A+ Slingshots. They are tapered TheraBand gold and size and shape is comparable to any powerful band on the market for $8.00 US + shipping.

 
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