Hello and thanks for dropping by my blog! Seeing that there's been a continued interest from many in shooting arrows from slingshots I've decided to add my work on the subject here on my blog. I know that many fine thinkers and designers have put their minds to this issue for as long as slingshots have been around. Some have had more success than others in accomplishing the goal. I have seen what Chief AJ, Jaybird, Dave Canterbury, Joerg Sprave and Smitty have accomplished in this area. While each had great designs in their own right, I noticed that each of these (with maybe the exception of Dave's) required the frame to be altered in some way to do so. In the case of my Signature Series line of slingshots it would need to fit three different sized frames. I really wanted to find a way to effectively shoot both ball ammo, and arrows for the same slingshot without drilling holes, adding inserts or making special frames. I started my experiments by trying many of the different ideas and designs that I had seen others do. I really wasn't pleased with any of them with exception of the (previously shown on the forum) Baby BB Arrow Shooter Modification. Everything was very complicated!!! I'm the kind of guy who looks for ways to bring the complicated down to the most basic, understandable and workable idea. In fact this quote states my creed well... "Anyone can make the simple complicated, creativity is making the complicated simple."- Charlie Mingus, an American jazz bassist With that criteria in mind I began to reduce the complexity of this problem one item at a time until I came up with what I call the "EZ" ARROW SHOOTER kit. I believe that it accomplishes my goals quite well. Today I wanted to share with you the results of my designs and work. Yes it could be changed... made more complicated... but WHY??? It works great as is!!! I don't think it's a coincidence that I made myself a old fashioned bow saw not to long ago. One good idea leads to another! It's great just for fun, target shooting, survival, or small game hunting.
It's a simple, effective and economical way to shoot both arrows and ball ammo from most all boardcut and natural slingshots. This is a great DIY project!!!This design concept is brought to you by Perry A. Adkisson of A+ Slingshots and permission is freely given for everyone to make, use and try. All I ask is that you please give credit when discussing it on or off the web. Enjoy!!!
Note: I do not accept any responsibility or liability for it's use and or misuse. Please be careful and use at your own risk.
Needed items:
Approx. 20" of paracord or similar (boot laces etc
Approx. 2 1/2" of a 11/64" hardwood dowel (large bamboo skewer works well)
1/2" (13mm) craft store round hardwood beads.
Suitable arrows (wooden or alum. with feather fletch that can be used on a bow in the range of 35 to 55 lbs should be fine as it is center shot. That is a big range, but I have successfully shot target to hunting arrows from the same slingshot. Lighter is of course faster, but heavy would be good for hunting.
Heat source (alcohol burner, propane, candle)
Needle Nose Pliers
Knife
super glue or archery fletching cement
Good set of tapered bands.... single or double depending on your need and strength.
Twist the loop of paracord with the dowel or cross piece while keeping the cord on top of the band ties until you have just enough tension to firmly keep it in place use as your arrow rest. Be sure to no over tighten...and if it kinks make the loop smaller by re-tying the over hand knot and twist again. As you twist, adjust it so that when tight the dowel stick is just right of center for right handed shooters (holding slingshot in your left hand) so the arrow may rest on the cord and to the left of the crosspiece.
To retrofit existing pre-made arrows:
Using a heat source and pliers take of the old nock in order to install the round bead.
Enlarge and taper the hole in the bead by twisting a cone shaped object in it (I used the needle nosed pliers I had handy) in order to make it fit the nock taper better before gluing with a drop of super glue or archery cement.
Use of the bead is important if you want to shoot with a strong set of bands!!
Note: I was using old arrows. The fletching was worn by years of use on a bow.
It's been a year or more since I've even shot my bow and I got this group at 12 yards.
Give it a try....
Have some fun in a different way.... that's what this is all about anyway!!!
I love being able to combine two sports I love together. I know it makes it a bit of a "mutt" but it's a lovable one to me.
Shooting Tips: Make sure the cross piece is set so the arrow is centershot, start close until you get the feel and then gradually back further away, keep your drawing arm elbow high so the arrow stays on the rest, follow through (ie; concentrate on not moving for a bit after the shot) and practice!!!
Enjoy and let me know how it works out for you!!!
Note A simple $5 "EZ" Arrow Shooter Kit is now available from my website that includes instructions, the para-cord, dowel crosspiece, and 12 round beads for nock replacement.
The key to making it work well is having bands at least as strong as a target bow 20-35lbs. This stronger side is best!!! AND tying them 2-21/2" shorter on the frame so that you are getting the maximum energy output of your bands.
It really feels and shoots well when I use my "Ultra Power" Bands!!!
Somehow I missed this tutorial or that brain cell failed. Well done. Hopefully everyone will have the sense not to twist it too tight and snap a fork. Since I haven't tried this I could be talking out of line. Perhaps the required twisting is accomplished before over twisting becomes an issue.Good job Perry!!
Somehow I missed this tutorial or that brain cell failed. Well done. Hopefully everyone will have the sense not to twist it too tight and snap a fork. Since I haven't tried this I could be talking out of line. Perhaps the required twisting is accomplished before over twisting becomes an issue.Good job Perry!!
Ray I haven't seen, had or heard of a problem yet, so it doesn't seem to be much of an issue. It only needs to be tight enough to hold well and not sag or fall off. I accomplish this by adjusting the knot on the cord so that I can twist it up just right when I tighten it with the cross piece. I further created a slotted crosspiece that I sell that allows for a half turn twist adjustment by sliding it. Works great because it keeps it all together.
Glad you liked it..... loads of fun!!!
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