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· Mojave Mo
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5,625 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Also known as The Devil's Tears, Godzilla's Saliva, Cyanoacrylate (C.A) or Super Glue!
You makers that have mastered this depressing finishing manuver deserve a round of applause!
On this little ring shooter I thought I'd give it another attempt. Wrong idea. Did you know that humans are the only mammals on Earth that will KNOWINGLY make the same mistake twice? It is because we are so intelligent.
I jacked up this nice purple heart swell with numerous layers of S. Snot that I sanded and chipped off as much as I could manage.
In a fit of epoxy madness I mixed up a bit and dipped the whole shooter in it?! I might even do it a second time to punish myself.
The only good news is that the entire sling hides in my hand or pocket. I just need to keep the fork tips clean and shiny!
Good luck with your own C.A. adventures, I'm out!! Mo
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· Mojave Mo
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5,625 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Mo,
Sorry to hear that you are not happy with your CA glue finish. Looks better than my attempts. I gave up on CA glue. I find about ten coats of tung oil give me a nice deep finish.
Good ol' fashioned Tung Oil. I've gone up to around 4 coats on a practice project and found it very attractive to work with. On top of my bad luck with Super Glue I've managed to get stuck to more things than I can count, it goes up my nose like a burning coal and may have even hastened my fuzzy vision!

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· Super Moderator
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6,064 Posts
I used to wrk as a mould maker. I had a little misculculation which resulted in removing all of the parts I just placed with CA - stuff literally stripped the lining from my nose - and I never quite regained my sense of smell.
 

· Mojave Mo
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5,625 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
CA is pure evil. Those that master it can command the devil himself. If pulled off it can be amazing though.
I wanna think that if I slowed down with an epoxy bath I'd come out with something like a automotive clear coat? The thing is I like the smell of natural woods and oil. I always feel like on a Natty (or any wood surface) I can go back and fix and refinish if I ever needed too as long as I don't have to change the frame to get the finish off.

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· Mojave Mo
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5,625 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
CA actually can penetrate the fibres of the material up to like 2mm deep - and its quite hard, and as it gets smooth seems to make it difficult to sand.
I can see it viable for Micarta and G10 builds then. It would be so much better to be able to dip the frame in a C.A. bath while wearing a Hazmat Suit. No, see.... I'm trying to win this battle!

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5,761 Posts
Ca is easy Mo I wear a good respirator and nitrate black gloves put lots of thin layers on like lots . The building of layers is the crappy part imo but don’t rush even if it takes a couple days lol . Once u get it nice and thick start with some 400 grit now here is the secret part wet sand get a bucket of warm water with a squirt of dish soap mixed in . Sand with the 400 until u get it even no low spots. Dry it up and look at work piece . Once u have evened out go to400; but sand light than hit it on buffing wheel make sure u r happy with it . The green stick will high light the flaws . Once your happy move up again but sand light remember at this point u r even and ca sands off fast . Move up to 2000 than green stick and buffing wheel . If u sand to much u will burn through that sucks don’t do that . Also remember a couple flaws don’t matter because if u try to be perfect u will probably burn through than u get to do it all again
 

· Mojave Mo
Joined
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5,625 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ca is easy Mo I wear a good respirator and nitrate black gloves put lots of thin layers on like lots . The building of layers is the crappy part imo but don't rush even if it takes a couple days lol . Once u get it nice and thick start with some 400 grit now here is the secret part wet sand get a bucket of warm water with a squirt of dish soap mixed in . Sand with the 400 until u get it even no low spots. Dry it up and look at work piece . Once u have evened out go to400; but sand light than hit it on buffing wheel make sure u r happy with it . The green stick will high light the flaws . Once your happy move up again but sand light remember at this point u r even and ca sands off fast . Move up to 2000 than green stick and buffing wheel . If u sand to much u will burn through that sucks don't do that . Also remember a couple flaws don't matter because if u try to be perfect u will probably burn through than u get to do it all again
I was waiting for the punchline, but I think you are serious??

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· Premium Member
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3,341 Posts
Hey Mo,
Sorry to hear that you are not happy with your CA glue finish. Looks better than my attempts. I gave up on CA glue. I find about ten coats of tung oil give me a nice deep finish.
That's was my exact thoughts. My does not look nearly that good.

Mo, you got to steal a finger nail polish brush...I tried everything I could think of for CA finishes...in the end I use CA only for repairs and then either a spray polyurethane or Minwax floor polish.

The look is matte and the feel is wooden.
 

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Цианоакрилат обязательно надо разводить в чистом ацетоне (2-3 капли цианакрилата на 30-50 мл ацетона). Сначала крыть кистью (вкривь вкось можно) и после каждого раза давать просохнуть. Будет страшно вонять, особенно если рукоятка пористая и большая. Потому лучше делать с проветриванием.
Слои должны высыхать так, чтобы если нюхать рукоятку, то клеем почти не пахло. По практике, в тeплом помещении под вентилятором или рядом с камином на сушку одного слоя достаточно 30-40 минут. Когда увидите, что уже есть местами лаковый налeт (поблeскивает), то берeте ватку с ацетоном и, как политурой, натираете ручку. Постепенно ацетон высыхает, а слой пластика, внедрeнного в дерево, выравнивается, стираются блестящие места. Можно довести степень пропитки и до толстой плeнки, похожей на лак.
 
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