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The finish can be as personal as what you like to shoot. Poly is quick , inexpensive and durable which is a hard to beat combination. I don't particularly like the "feel" of poly as it seems "plastickey" to me. I use Tru-Oil because the BLO it contains seals the wood and penetrates the grain deeper. I have tried making my own and it's not worth it but a little goes a long way. Tru-Oil is slow and depends on multiple coats(6 or better) to get a good deep appearance and is a PITA to do items as small as one frame so I usually try to do 3 or 4 at a time.

I like a glassey finish but many like the semi gloss or satin look and I see lots of things done with buffing a BLO finish with beeswax that looks terrific also. I would thin the BLO with mineral spirits if that was my route to speed up the drying or this time of year you might have to wait until Spring for the second coat.;)

My final sanding on the raw wood is with 320 grit for hardwoods , 1000 or 1500 for the final coat of Tru-oil and then buff with scratch remover and a good wax to finish after some curing time in good temperatures.
 

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I've tried a lot of different finishing proscess but I've been using the Beall buffing system and it's great.

There's another process that I like to, I use it on my flutes.
After sanding, I apply shellac and then put paraffin oil on a clean rag and sprinkle pumice Stone on it and then buff the wood with it by hand, then I take another clean rag and apply the paraffin oil on it, then I sprinkle the rag with rotten stone and buff to a high gloss finish.

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