Slingshots Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wanna show you my last build, it's made of a bamboo kitchen board and some oak scrap with added plywood as a core. Thanks for looking and a happy new year.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Wanna show you my last build, it's made of a bamboo kitchen board and some oak scrap with added plywood as a core. Thanks for looking and a happy new year.
A neat TTF! I'm thinking of making something similar - what are the fork gap, fork depth and overall dimensions including thickness, please?

Your band clamp is attractive, very simple - is it proven? What is that made of, to avoid splitting? Does the screw go through the flatband? The screw type is critical, what exactly is its type and size?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have been thinking about how to clamp the flat bands myself. I usually use whipping twine, which does not enable me to switch bands quickly.

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wanna show you my last build, it's made of a bamboo kitchen board and some oak scrap with added plywood as a core. Thanks for looking and a happy new year.
A neat TTF! I'm thinking of making something similar - what are the fork gap, fork depth and overall dimensions including thickness, please?

Your band clamp is attractive, very simple - is it proven? What is that made of, to avoid splitting? Does the screw go through the flatband? The screw type is critical, what exactly is its type and size?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have been thinking about how to clamp the flat bands myself. I usually use whipping twine, which does not enable me to switch bands quickly.

Mike
Hi Mike,

I will try to answer your questions. The fork gap is about 55mm, thickness 25mm, 100mm width and160mm total length, the second frame has a 60mm fork gap, 110mm width and 27mm thichness. As you can see at the images there is a slot on the fork and a rod-shaped elevation on the other side similar to the Simple Shot Flip Clip design. I also added some iron threads from the backside of the plywood core, the screws are black stainless steel M5*18mm. Maybe I should add a thin micarta layer to the back of the wooden oak clip like on the other frame as shown on the second image. I use this design on several frames I've made, there was no failure or break until today. The only thing is that I always make sure that the bands are securely clamped.

Fasty
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Hi Fasty, my thanks to you for the additional details and photos and of course, my thanks to mike for asking :)

Fasty, you mentioned "there was no failure or break until today" I am assuming that you have NOT had a band failure (breakage) but that - it just appears that you have due to translation from German to English?

My compliments on your exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail. I also like your style in finishing - everything looks very natural !

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi Fasty, my thanks to you for the additional details and photos and of course, my thanks to mike for asking :)

Fasty, you mentioned "there was no failure or break until today" I am assuming that you have NOT had a band failure (breakage) but that - it just appears that you have due to translation from German to English?

My compliments on your exquisite craftsmanship and attention to detail. I also like your style in finishing - everything looks very natural !

Cheers!
Hi woodbark,
what I want to say is the clamping of the band is secure, it never slipped out and nothing on the fork or clip is broken.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Wanna show you my last build, it's made of a bamboo kitchen board and some oak scrap with added plywood as a core. Thanks for looking and a happy new year.
A neat TTF! I'm thinking of making something similar - what are the fork gap, fork depth and overall dimensions including thickness, please?

Your band clamp is attractive, very simple - is it proven? What is that made of, to avoid splitting? Does the screw go through the flatband? The screw type is critical, what exactly is its type and size?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have been thinking about how to clamp the flat bands myself. I usually use whipping twine, which does not enable me to switch bands quickly.

Mike
Hi Mike,

I will try to answer your questions. The fork gap is about 55mm, thickness 25mm, 100mm width and160mm total length, the second frame has a 60mm fork gap, 110mm width and 27mm thichness. As you can see at the images there is a slot on the fork and a rod-shaped elevation on the other side similar to the Simple Shot Flip Clip design. I also added some iron threads from the backside of the plywood core, the screws are black stainless steel M5*18mm. Maybe I should add a thin micarta layer to the back of the wooden oak clip like on the other frame as shown on the second image. I use this design on several frames I've made, there was no failure or break until today. The only thing is that I always make sure that the bands are securely clamped.

Fasty
Ah, there is a lot more engineering than was visible on the photos in the original message.

I can see that the embedded steel female screw thread is critical to the strength. The overall thickness of 27 mm accommodates the system. I have also looked at the SimpleShot Flip Clip, whose name is a bit confusing to me because it does not "flip", it is screwed tight using a screwdriver or Allen key, depending on the version.

Does the male screw go through the rubber, through a pre-punched hole?

Thank you for all the information, the overall dimensions are very useful too.

Are these for target or hunting, or both? What bands and ammo do you use?

Sorry about all the questions, but this is an attractive design, so it is all your fault! :) :)

Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Wanna show you my last build, it's made of a bamboo kitchen board and some oak scrap with added plywood as a core. Thanks for looking and a happy new year.
A neat TTF! I'm thinking of making something similar - what are the fork gap, fork depth and overall dimensions including thickness, please?

Your band clamp is attractive, very simple - is it proven? What is that made of, to avoid splitting? Does the screw go through the flatband? The screw type is critical, what exactly is its type and size?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have been thinking about how to clamp the flat bands myself. I usually use whipping twine, which does not enable me to switch bands quickly.

Mike
Hi Mike,
I will try to answer your questions. The fork gap is about 55mm, thickness 25mm, 100mm width and160mm total length, the second frame has a 60mm fork gap, 110mm width and 27mm thichness. As you can see at the images there is a slot on the fork and a rod-shaped elevation on the other side similar to the Simple Shot Flip Clip design. I also added some iron threads from the backside of the plywood core, the screws are black stainless steel M5*18mm. Maybe I should add a thin micarta layer to the back of the wooden oak clip like on the other frame as shown on the second image. I use this design on several frames I've made, there was no failure or break until today. The only thing is that I always make sure that the bands are securely clamped.

Fasty
Ah, there is a lot more engineering than was visible on the photos in the original message.

I can see that the embedded steel female screw thread is critical to the strength. The overall thickness of 27 mm accommodates the system. I have also looked at the SimpleShot Flip Clip, whose name is a bit confusing to me because it does not "flip", it is screwed tight using a screwdriver or Allen key, depending on the version.

Does the male screw go through the rubber, through a pre-punched hole?

Thank you for all the information, the overall dimensions are very useful too.

Are these for target or hunting, or both? What bands and ammo do you use?

Sorry about all the questions, but this is an attractive design, so it is all your fault! :) :)

Mike
Hi mike,
I use my slings for target shooting only and I prefer light ammo with single layer bands, I have never tried double bands on this design. For hunting bands I would prefer the wrap and tuck method but I don't hunt.

Regards
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
591 Posts
Wanna show you my last build, it's made of a bamboo kitchen board and some oak scrap with added plywood as a core. Thanks for looking and a happy new year.
A neat TTF! I'm thinking of making something similar - what are the fork gap, fork depth and overall dimensions including thickness, please?

Your band clamp is attractive, very simple - is it proven? What is that made of, to avoid splitting? Does the screw go through the flatband? The screw type is critical, what exactly is its type and size?

Sorry about all the questions, but I have been thinking about how to clamp the flat bands myself. I usually use whipping twine, which does not enable me to switch bands quickly.

Mike
Hi Mike,
I will try to answer your questions. The fork gap is about 55mm, thickness 25mm, 100mm width and160mm total length, the second frame has a 60mm fork gap, 110mm width and 27mm thichness. As you can see at the images there is a slot on the fork and a rod-shaped elevation on the other side similar to the Simple Shot Flip Clip design. I also added some iron threads from the backside of the plywood core, the screws are black stainless steel M5*18mm. Maybe I should add a thin micarta layer to the back of the wooden oak clip like on the other frame as shown on the second image. I use this design on several frames I've made, there was no failure or break until today. The only thing is that I always make sure that the bands are securely clamped.

Fasty
Ah, there is a lot more engineering than was visible on the photos in the original message.

I can see that the embedded steel female screw thread is critical to the strength. The overall thickness of 27 mm accommodates the system. I have also looked at the SimpleShot Flip Clip, whose name is a bit confusing to me because it does not "flip", it is screwed tight using a screwdriver or Allen key, depending on the version.

Does the male screw go through the rubber, through a pre-punched hole?

Thank you for all the information, the overall dimensions are very useful too.

Are these for target or hunting, or both? What bands and ammo do you use?

Sorry about all the questions, but this is an attractive design, so it is all your fault! :) :)

Mike
Hi mike,
I use my slings for target shooting only and I prefer light ammo with single layer bands, I have never tried double bands on this design. For hunting bands I would prefer the wrap and tuck method but I don't hunt.

Regards
Fasty, does the male screw go through the rubber, through a pre-punched hole?

Yes, I am target shooting. I am about to receive a Dankung Toucan Agile Rosewood (phew!!! What a long name) for target shooting, and it too has light bands and band clamps. It has "fibre optic sights".

I have bought it just to learn something, I prefer to make things. If I don't like it, I shall sell it on, as usual.

I have fun with heavy ammo too, and for that, I bind the rubber on with 0.8 mm waxed polyester whipping twine for overkill strength and reliability.

Mike
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top