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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, looking for answers here .
If one flat band is stretched more than the other, side shooter ott in this case .Will the ball follow the line of the most stretched band . All my fork hits are on the top fork . I go a long time without one then get several in close succession.
I now the causes of fork hits but when they occur I can't seem to work out the problem logically.
Also I notice when my bands fail its always the bottom one never the top . I would of thought this meant I was putting more stress by elongation into the bottom band .which will become obvious depending on the answers I get regarding my first question. TIA.
 

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First question is, are you holding the forks parallel to your body? I other words, are you by any chance pushing the bottom fork farther out from your body than the top fork.

If you are, this could be some of your problem, stretching one band more than the other by very much would cause a problem.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
HOSS Thanks for replying. I have videos of myself and nothing seems obvious .
If I knew wether the ball follows the furthest stretched band or not it would help to determine wether the forks are too far forward or back. I use a large size HTS with a pinch grip so the frame is well locked in place.
 

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HOSS Thanks for replying. I have videos of myself and nothing seems obvious .
If I knew wether the ball follows the furthest stretched band or not it would help to determine wether the forks are too far forward or back. I use a large size HTS with a pinch grip so the frame is well locked in place.
This my sound stupid but here it goes anyway. If you think you're stretching the bottom band more than the top band I would try an experiment with the top band just to see it that's the problem.

Here's what I would try, shorten the top band elongation so it would put a little more stretch on it compared to the bottom one and see what happens.

Before any laughs at me I must confess, I have no idea if this even makes sense at all, but it's something that just came to mind, who knows it my work. It would be easy to try, if nothing else we might learn something new.

If this sounds farfetched, let's just say I'm having one of those senior moments.

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Hoss, with all due respect, that sounds like a setup for disaster.

Battue2, bottom line is the ammo is traveling in the direction of your pouch release. If you are striking a fork, it's because you twisted or tweaked the pouch in that direction in what is known as the speed bump created by the pouch over your finger or thumb position. The only fix is to improve on your release. Focus on a straight clean release and you will solve your problem.
 

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Here's a long answer to fork hits.

IMO fork hits are almost always due to pouch release technique. Be certain that you are not bending the pouch before you release (twisting is okay) and when you do release try to make it smooth. What you don't want is to form a "bump" with your finger that the pouch and ball have got to pull around as you release.

A pinch grip using just the fingertips with the pouch completely in line with the bands and then a smooth release is what you're looking for.

As an aside, the other most common cause of fork hits is the pouch shedding the ball before it gets to the frame. Everyone seems to be shooting synthetic or laminated leather pouches these days which, if done right work well. For over ten years I cut all my own bands and pouches and learned a lot about leather and grain direction in the process.

The best way to minimize fork hits, apart from not bending the pouch is to take steps to make certain the ball doesn't slip or shed from out of the pouch. There are three techniques that I alternately use to capture the ball in the pouch before shooting.

1. Punch a hole in the center of the pouch. The ball will ideally be automatically centered on release. (This is the worst - though most commonly used technique. It can fail if the pouch is too thick or inflexible or the hole can limit the size of ball or the hole can stretch and partially impede the release or even allow the ball to be pulled through the pouch on release.)

2. If the pouch is leather then simply wet it, place a ball in the wet pouch and pull it tight and let the leather dry in place. When the ball is removed there should be a nice pocket formed that will help to cradle the ball on release.

3. Synthetic pouch: Pu at ball in the pouch, pull tight and run a flame quickly around the ball and pouch. This will form a permanent cup in the pouch.
 

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As regards the asymmetrical bands; The ball will attempt to center during acceleration and will not directly follow the path of the shorter band.

As regards to the fork hits; They don't come out of the clear blue. They are the result of the slingshot either not being squared to the target, the pouch shedding the ball early or the pouch release technique being off. Sorry.

There is one other way to guarantee a fork hit. Shoot out the car window when moving. Learned that one the hard way.
 

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Hoss, with all due respect, that sounds like a setup for disaster.

Battue2, bottom line is the ammo is traveling in the direction of your pouch release. If you are striking a fork, it's because you twisted or tweaked the pouch in that direction in what is known as the speed bump created by the pouch over your finger or thumb position. The only fix is to improve on your release. Focus on a straight clean release and you will solve your problem.
After I made the reply I did some thinking, and I would have to say your absolutley right.

I tried to edit or delete my reply but the time limit to do so had past.

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