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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Not sure if this belongs here, if not please direct me to the right place.
I just received my Scout XT in the mail, and love it. Have it set up to shoot TTF, and can aim pretty well that way. My issue is that with the stock black bands at full draw, my left hand shakes while trying to aim. I'm going to try a lighter bandset for the time being until I get my aiming technique downpat. I have some of the SS BB bands on the way, and I'm hoping that will solve the problem. Has anyone else ever experienced this, and am I right in my assumption about going to a lighter band set?

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for sure, try a lighter band set. It is pretty easy to experiment with different bad sets. Walmart sells #64 and #32 rubber bands, either can be chained or braided to make a decent band. This is a cheap way to learn about your draw length and how much active band length you want. Look for instructions here on making band sets from rubber bands.

Walmart also sells SPRI exercise resistance bands, the blue (medium) makes a very lightweight band set when cut in a 7/8" strip. Cut a 1.5" strip and fold it lengthwise and you have a very decent medium pull band set. You will need a rotary cutter and a cutting mat, both also available at Walmart.

Bill Hays of Pocket Predator has some information re: building and strength. I keep some grippers on my desk and squeeze them throughout the day. You can also squeeze a soft ball.

If all else fails, consider a wrist-braced slingshot.

Hope this helps.
 

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Having the same issue with the Simpleshot black bands.

My first Chinese SlingShot came with 10 sets of bands and they are much lighter and easier to hold at full draw.

I chronied them and was getting an average of 190fps with 3/8" steel, don't really know if that is good or not, haven't chronied the Black bands but I would guess they are considerably faster.

At this point I definitely shoot better with the lighter bands so that is what I will stick with mainly, but also try to shoot the black bands enough so that hopefully it will get easier to shoot with them as I get stronger.

I shot today until my pouch fingers went numb, if it don't kill ya it will make you stronger!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you are on the right track by switching to lighter bands.

Are you maxing the bands out? If so cut the bands slightly longer so you reach your anchor without maxing them.
I'm not making the bands myself, yet. I'm just using pre-made right now. I used to make my own bands from pure gum rubber and I could reach back behind my head when I pulled them back, and that worked really well for me. I got out of shooting for a few years, and now finding pure gum rubber at an affordable price is nearly impossible. I'm thinking of trying some of the orange stuff from gzk as well as Theraband blue

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for all the replies! I made the mistake of ordering a bunch of pre-made bands online that are all Theraband gold with the super small Chinese style pouch on them. The bands aren't long enough, are therefore harder to pull, and those little bitty pouches are super hard to hold on to. I'm gonna wait for my blue bands to get here, and go from there

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I know that Thera band is old fashion now, but I've used thera band blue for many years in a 1to 3/4" taper with very good success. Even hunted with them lots. That said i shoot full butterfly. But even at a shorter draw I'm sure they will work well for you. And there a nice easy draw.
I shot butterfly as a kid, and that's what I'm going to go back to. It was a better feel and really accurate for me, whether OTF or TTF. If you don't minme asking, what band length and ammo are you shooting?

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If you enjoy shooting butterfly, you probably want a smooth and easy band-pulling expereience-grab some Chinese bands and see if they suit you. You can pick thinner band for better control, the length increase from your butterfly should compensate the power loss easily.
 

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First, follow all the advice above!

Another thing to consider is a lanyard. If you are gripping the frame tightly in order to keep it aligned and to keep it from pulling out of your hand, you are creating tension. That results in shaking. A properly fitting lanyard will allow a very relaxed grip. Basically where your thumb and forefinger contact the frame becomes a fulcrum, instead of a holding point and the lanyard keeps the butt end from moving forward, therefore anchoring it in place with very little grip needed. Also, a frame that fits your hand and suits your style is crucial. I simply cannot shoot large ergo frames like the HTS. It creates pressure and pain at my thumb joint and aggravates my carpal tunnel. Frames like the ones I get from Island Made and SPS frames suit me perfectly and I can shoot them for hundreds of shoots in a row with no problem at all. I tried just about every frame style out there before I found what works for me.

Keep working at it. You'll get there!
 

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It seems a lot of things from archery transfer over to SlingShot shooting, I shoot my compound bow with a very relaxed grip almost open hand but with a wrist strap to catch the bow after the shot.

My first SlingShot had no lanyard hole and I had to remember to grip the SlingShot or it would jump out of my hand after the shot and hit the floor.
 

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It seems a lot of things from archery transfer over to SlingShot shooting, I shoot my compound bow with a very relaxed grip almost open hand but with a wrist strap to catch the bow after the shot.

My first SlingShot had no lanyard hole and I had to remember to grip the SlingShot or it would jump out of my hand after the shot and hit the floor.
I consider a lanyard almost a requirement. With a properly fitted lanyard you can do the archery drop with a slingshot. Saunders Archery sells a slingshot made specifically to use the archery drop, I don't think an expensive specialized slingshot is needed when basically any slingshot with a proper lanyard can do the same.

I have tried the archery drop with slingshots and did not care for it but I use the lanyard because I can use a very relaxed grip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are you shooting the Scout more upright or sideshooter (aka gangsta) style? Reason I ask is that I personally find my wrist is more stable when holding the sling as a sideshooter. I can't shoot worth beans with the forks upright.
Gangsta all the way. That's the only way I'm accurate at all lol

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Here is another thing that might help. Are you using an anchor point? If so, find your anchor point before you draw. Now come to a full draw and pass down through the target, slowing bring the sight up to the target and release. I find that if I stand there and hold the draw while trying to get spot on the target, it compounds my shakes. Shooting faster does two things. It doesn't allow the bands to cool off. And it decreases muscle fatigue. Might help might not. But for sure shooting a lot will slowly solve your shakes buy building the particular muscles needed.
 

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I decided to try shooting the black SimpleShot bands on the Axiom Ocularis today and they seem to be easier to hold now without shaking too bad. So either I am getting stronger or maybe the bands are getting broken in.

I don't know if that is even a thing, do SlingShot bands have a break in period?

I like to think I am pretty strong, I did hard physical labor most of my life, but I am thinking that drawing and holding a SlingShot may very well use a different set of muscles than I am used to and therefore the more i shoot the easier it should get to hold at full draw.

Also being able to get on target and release quickly is important and that too should get easier with practice.
 
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