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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys. I've been shooting exclusively OTT for a while with flats, but I seem to keep getting handslap and I can't seem to identify why it's happening ! I'm pretty sure I'm matched OK with my bands and ammo weight. I'm shooting 66 white gzk 20-15mm taper with 9.5 and 10mm steel which should be plenty heavy enough. Even with 10mm lead I'm getting handslap even though these are too heavy for the bands if anything. My shots seem to be pretty accurate and consistent so I'm not sure what's causing it. It's on my middle finger with is wrapped around the frame, the same place every shot. After 200 shots yesterday I'm getting bruised
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you pointing the frame toward the target? This will sometimes cause the bands to whip around and slap your hand.
That's something to bear in mind thank you mate. I'm used to having a aiming Grove to line me up. I think filming myself shoot might be a good idea so I can see what I'm doing

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome thank you everyone! I'm shooting mostly with my Wasp wolf and I really love it, accuracy wise it's great, but the hand slap really gets to me after a while especially because, as you say it's so cold at the moment. Weirdly it doesn't do it if I draw to my cheek?? Only when I draw to my ear. I'm better accuracy drawing to my ear though. I think I will have to practice with a camera filming me or alongside a mirror as I think I might be canting the frame forwards.

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Some frames just slap more... I haven't figured out the exact elements causing it yet but I suspect it's the placement of the grooves or position of a tie encouraging an angle of return that slaps... I find that feihus or pegheads hardly ever slap?
I've definitely experienced this too, urbanshooter. Some frames just slap more and I think you're right about fork tip and tie arrangement. Forks that are completely flat across the tops, like the chinese pegheads, do seem to slap less in my experience. Tying-on higher up the forks also seems to reduce slap for me. But again, the best way to minimize handslap is the correct elastic to ammo ratios.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Some frames just slap more... I haven't figured out the exact elements causing it yet but I suspect it's the placement of the grooves or position of a tie encouraging an angle of return that slaps... I find that feihus or pegheads hardly ever slap?
I really want to try a peghead, I am desperate for a lions mouth. Maybe I'll give one a go and see how I get on. I'm liking 20-15mm and 18-12 tapers at the moment anyway so a peg head would be ideal

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Some frames just slap more... I haven't figured out the exact elements causing it yet but I suspect it's the placement of the grooves or position of a tie encouraging an angle of return that slaps... I find that feihus or pegheads hardly ever slap?
I've definitely experienced this too, urbanshooter. Some frames just slap more and I think you're right about fork tip and tie arrangement. Forks that are completely flat across the tops, like the chinese pegheads, do seem to slap less in my experience. Tying-on higher up the forks also seems to reduce slap for me. But again, the best way to minimize handslap is the correct elastic to ammo ratios.
This is what I mean by forks that are flat across the tops vs rounded tops and forks that tie-on higher up vs lower on the forks. These two images are from Northerner and Whadafork. Images are much better than my words.

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Some frames just slap more... I haven't figured out the exact elements causing it yet but I suspect it's the placement of the grooves or position of a tie encouraging an angle of return that slaps... I find that feihus or pegheads hardly ever slap?
I really want to try a peghead, I am desperate for a lions mouth. Maybe I'll give one a go and see how I get on. I'm liking 20-15mm and 18-12 tapers at the moment anyway so a peg head would be ideal

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Lions Mouth frames are great, and are usually very reasonably priced. I'm a fan!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
A TTF setup will naturally reduce or eliminate handslap entirely if you want to give that style a go. I like that the Wolf has both options.

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Ttf is my normal style, and the wolf is my favourite for that too, very versatile frame. I just wanted to get more to grips with ott as I feel I'm missing out on some cool looking frame designs by being exclusively a ttf shooter

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Some frames just slap more... I haven't figured out the exact elements causing it yet but I suspect it's the placement of the grooves or position of a tie encouraging an angle of return that slaps... I find that feihus or pegheads hardly ever slap?
I really want to try a peghead, I am desperate for a lions mouth. Maybe I'll give one a go and see how I get on. I'm liking 20-15mm and 18-12 tapers at the moment anyway so a peg head would be ideal

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Lions Mouth frames are great, and are usually very reasonably priced. I'm a fan!
There's a vendor in the UK that sells them shipped from the UK. They're sold for £24 delivered but it's better than waiting for 4 weeks for it to come from Dankung I suppose!

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A TTF setup will naturally reduce or eliminate handslap entirely if you want to give that style a go. I like that the Wolf has both options.

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Ttf is my normal style, and the wolf is my favourite for that too, very versatile frame. I just wanted to get more to grips with ott as I feel I'm missing out on some cool looking frame designs by being exclusively a ttf shooter

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Ah I getcha! Yah Im pretty much exclusively ttf myself and handslap was one of the big reasons. :)

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Ray Rowden
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Awesome thank you everyone! I'm shooting mostly with my Wasp wolf and I really love it, accuracy wise it's great, but the hand slap really gets to me after a while especially because, as you say it's so cold at the moment. Weirdly it doesn't do it if I draw to my cheek?? Only when I draw to my ear. I'm better accuracy drawing to my ear though. I think I will have to practice with a camera filming me or alongside a mirror as I think I might be canting the frame forwards.

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Sounds like you are getting a lot more performance out of your bands drawn to your ear than to your cheek. Latex performance often really jumps when drawing beyond 5x elongation. Your bands match your ammo with the short draw, but overpower the ammo with the long draw.

A possible solution is to cut the bands longer to adjust to your longer draw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Awesome thank you everyone! I'm shooting mostly with my Wasp wolf and I really love it, accuracy wise it's great, but the hand slap really gets to me after a while especially because, as you say it's so cold at the moment. Weirdly it doesn't do it if I draw to my cheek?? Only when I draw to my ear. I'm better accuracy drawing to my ear though. I think I will have to practice with a camera filming me or alongside a mirror as I think I might be canting the frame forwards.

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Sounds like you are getting a lot more performance out of your bands drawn to your ear than to your cheek. Latex performance often really jumps when drawing beyond 5x elongation. Your bands match your ammo with the short draw, but overpower the ammo with the long draw.
A possible solution is to cut the bands longer to adjust to your longer draw.
Ahh I see what you mean. As when I draw to my ear I am maxing out my bands, also I twist the pouch at my ear, I'm not sure if that would make any difference as well

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've got very long arms as well, I'm drawing 7.5inch active bands to about 35-36 inches. I'm getting blistering speeds through, shoots straight though my backstop of a hanging hoodie and a piece of carpet!

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ahh excellent, I'll try an extra cm or 2 on my active length or maybe a narrower taper like 18-12mm and see if that makes a difference. Hopefully you've cracked it! Cheers everyone !

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