New to the forum, hello.
I thought I'd show my design for what for me is the ultimate slingshot.
Made from aluminium, brass and stainless steel.
There's storage for 30 steel balls in the handle, the head unscrews and re-attaches the other way so the length is reduced for carrying (I can wear them hanging from my jens belt loop).
They have sights adjustable for windage (with tools) and elevation (by fingers) and the bit that made the most difference to the accuracy is what I call a gimble sight.
There's a large hole in the lower arm and set back behind that is a brass plate with a smaller hole. The brass plate is adjustable in two dimensions. By lining up the two holes concentrically I can eliminate pitch and roll when I take aim.
I have found these to be very accurate, I can strike a half sized bake beans can 10/10 at 15yds. I realise others on here will be better than that without all the technology but this is what I built to improve my accuracy.
I find the large tube to be the most comfortable handle as it eliminates any hotspots.
I use Dankung because I've found them to be the most accurate and they retract extremely quickly giving a fast lock time which further improves accuracy. I've tried flatbands and they're too variable for me, the weight of the knotting at the pouch I think limits their velocity too.
The main reason I like Dankung is that if you put a notch in your top fork you can aim at things below the level of the bands. For me with a 100mm fork, which is the narrowest I will use (to prevent fork strikes) the point of impact is always below the top band. This was also true for flatbands unless I used a floating anchor which was just hopeless. With this setup I can anchor my thumb 2nd knuckle in the hollow of my right cheek and get a consistent triangulation between eye, anchor and sight.
I thought I'd show my design for what for me is the ultimate slingshot.
Made from aluminium, brass and stainless steel.
There's storage for 30 steel balls in the handle, the head unscrews and re-attaches the other way so the length is reduced for carrying (I can wear them hanging from my jens belt loop).
They have sights adjustable for windage (with tools) and elevation (by fingers) and the bit that made the most difference to the accuracy is what I call a gimble sight.
There's a large hole in the lower arm and set back behind that is a brass plate with a smaller hole. The brass plate is adjustable in two dimensions. By lining up the two holes concentrically I can eliminate pitch and roll when I take aim.
I have found these to be very accurate, I can strike a half sized bake beans can 10/10 at 15yds. I realise others on here will be better than that without all the technology but this is what I built to improve my accuracy.
I find the large tube to be the most comfortable handle as it eliminates any hotspots.
I use Dankung because I've found them to be the most accurate and they retract extremely quickly giving a fast lock time which further improves accuracy. I've tried flatbands and they're too variable for me, the weight of the knotting at the pouch I think limits their velocity too.
The main reason I like Dankung is that if you put a notch in your top fork you can aim at things below the level of the bands. For me with a 100mm fork, which is the narrowest I will use (to prevent fork strikes) the point of impact is always below the top band. This was also true for flatbands unless I used a floating anchor which was just hopeless. With this setup I can anchor my thumb 2nd knuckle in the hollow of my right cheek and get a consistent triangulation between eye, anchor and sight.