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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I use to be in manufacturing so when I retired, I sold most of the machinery off except for my big knee mill and lathe. Also, I have a few friends in the CNC machining business and CNC laser cutting.

So my curiosity questions, have you guys or anyone posted metal slingshot designs?

Online?

I love steel because of it's predictable failure, but is a 1/4" or 3/8 mild steel too heavy?
 

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Yes :)

I have done a few laser cut from 304 1/4" stock (I have a contact with a CNC router and metal laser cutter). I did find the metal laser cutter's cuts were surprisingly rough and did require a lot of sanding. Also holes are best done small and drilled out to the correct size.

They can be on the heavier side - but skeletonising can remove much of this weight.

This one was my first laser cut one (roughly based on the Milbro) - and used to carry as an EDC without issue. With the 1745 or 1842 (better IMO) its hard-hitting with 9.5mm steel.

Blue Table Wood Nipper Hardwood
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes :)

I have done a few laser cut from 304 1/4" stock (I have a contact with a CNC router and metal laser cutter). I did find the metal laser cutter's cuts were surprisingly rough and did require a lot of sanding. Also holes are best done small and drilled out to the correct size.

They can be on the heavier side - but skeletonising can remove much of this weight.

This one was my first laser cut one (roughly based on the Milbro) - and used to carry as an EDC without issue. With the 1745 or 1842 (better IMO) its hard-hitting with 9.5mm steel.

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304 or any steel is going to be sharp and it needs sanding and filing. I also kept the 6" edge belt sander......but sanding off stainless is going to eat up an expensive belt real fast. Cheaper to run the small grinder with 120 grit pads and then touch up with an orbital. The inside curves and skeletonized are elbow grease specials.

Aluminum is lighter and I have a ton of offcuts from 1/4" all the way to 1" thick, all of it 6061, but I don't like the catastrophic failure of aluminum. Mind you, I don't see 1/2" failing that easily...unless there is a frame hit. Plus aluminum should be anodized....which can be another 20 bucks.

Cheaper to buy.....but not as much fun!
 

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Sharp edges are one thing. The cut itself was rougher than expected. Waterjet cut seems to get a much cleaner cut. Sanding the sides weren't bad just took.longer than I had hoped for. One thing to note its better using steels with no carbon content as they arn't as brittle.
 
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