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Allegedly Southwest Archery is responsible for this slingshot.

I bought it specifically for the adjustable draw length. I am deformed.

Because of joint/physical limitations, I cannot do a behind the head draw. "Best" I can do is use my ear for my anchor point. Moving the forks as far forward as possible helps increase draw weight, draw length, and velocity. :)

Sadly, a custom fork assembly to add 8 to 12 inches to my draw length using the same at ear lobe anchor point (and bands) isn't an option. :(

Anyway, overall, how "bad" is this Daisy/Barnet/Marksman class/type slingshot? (Yes, it does have storage for up-to just under 0.05 inch ammo in the handle.)

No. I do realize few -- if any -- here would desire to be seen or caught shooting it -- alive or not. :)
 

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I've seen a lot worse Bud. One question-Is that left fork/prong bent at the top or is it an optical illusion?
 

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You said you can "only" draw to your ear. Are you able to fully extend your frame holding arm? If yes, that's a 100% normal (I'd say 26-30") draw length for short draw and the only reason you would need extended forks is if you are after very high velocities. I draw to my cheekbone and shoot 5/16 steel at 240-250 fps. Quarter inch steel goes just under 300 fps. If you are using the blue tubes that come with the slingshot shown, you are already at a disadvantage. Using bands will give you much better performance. Pocket Predator has a simple attachment method to use bands on a wire fork. You can also search the forum for other methods.
 

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The main problem with that wrist rocket is the brace, it's just pushed on the end of the tubes and will very quickly loosen and start sliding off mid pull. I've had them come flying back at me more then once. I would pull that brace and make a new one from paracord and glue it in place. Toss the stock brace now before it hurts you or one of the kids on accident.
 

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Nothing wrong w/ that or similar offerings from Daisy/Barnett/Marksman. Lots of instructions here on modifying wire frame shooters. You can easily wrap and tuck flat bands onto that type of frame. Also, go to Pocket Predator and Bill sells some cool little clamps designed to put flat bands on a wire frame shooter.

I recently located a stash of some Trumark WS-1 slingshots. Let me know if you are interested in one.
 

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I have to agree with everyone saying you do not need a long draw to be accurate or powerful. Pulling back to your cheek, mouth or ear, are all plenty powerful to hunt with. I would say that more people do a short draw to their face then do a butterfly draw.

If you want something longer you can make a Starship. I made a design of Starship made out of 3/4 inch PVC pipe that is made from standard parts and fully adjustable to fit your specific arm and comfort zone. When I made it I didn't glue everything together I just pressure fit it until I found the right feel and then I glued some of the PVC together and others I just used screws to pin them together and haven't had any issues with strength. Schedule 40 PVC is very strong and it makes a fun slingshot. While the starship is an accurate slingshot I find my normal slingshot is more accurate and precise which is the most important part of shooting. Here is a picture in the design if you'd like to give it a try it is a very fun cheap way to get going in Starship.
 

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If it works for you, it's very good. Most of us have owned or do own a variation of that adjustable frame, even Wingshooter had fun modifying one to his preference.

Customize and enjoy it - lots of potential there.
 

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I hope drawing to the ear is not a substantial limitation. While I am in awe of butterfly shooters I can get the balls flying pretty good with a cheek or ear draw. And the more I practice the better the aim gets. Maybe someday I'll try the longer draws but don't feel limited by cheek, mouth, or ear anchor points.

For arrows, it is hard to imagine drawing farther back than an ear. Anything more than that and the point of even a long 32" arrow will end up behind the hand holding the frame, which seems like a recipe for bad things to happen.

If you really desire a longer draw, some of the ideas offered above or the starship forum may be interesting for you. I have a commercial frame a lot like the one you pictured and enjoy it, but have come to prefer a regular frame even with my face / head based anchor points.
 

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Nothing wrong with that at all, those frames are usually pretty darn tough.
Only thing is those tube bands arent usually very easy to be accurate with, luckily Bill Hays makes some cool little doo-dads to attach flat bands onto them, you should check em out on PocketPredator.
I actually just threw some on a daisy to set up a youngster the other and It seems they're just the ticket.
 

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With a minor adaptation to flat bands, it should be quite OK.

The decisive safety factor is whether the extended steel rod structure (looks like 6 mm diameter rod?) is able to handle the load without deforming under tension - which might be the case with tubes. I would personally prefer 7 to 8 mm diameter steel rod (standard or stainless) for extended fork prongs.
 

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Tie on some flatbands and you are ready to rock! Sometimes I shoot one like it (just a bit longer) when I really want to destroy stuff.
I use 8 inches of active elastic. That's from the tie to the pouch and anchor it at my ear. Have fun with it buddy!
 

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Like everyone says-"throw a set of flats on there",make sure that vinyl brace is secure ( or change it ) and you'll be ready to rock.
 
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