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Hello everybody,

We either shoot bands or tubes for a variety of reasons, but both eventually break and need to be replaced.

Here are a few questions I would like you to answer, if possible;

- What band or tube type do you most commonly use?

- Your preferred length and taper?

- Ammo size and type?

- How long do your band sets or tube sets last before breaking?

- Where did do they tend to break most often e.g. at the forks, mid-way, or at the pouch?

- How old were the band sets or tubes when they failed?

- How were the band sets or tube sets tied to your pouch and your slingshot forks?

- What were the conditions when you were shooting i.e. was is very warm or very cold, or indoor shooting?

This could be quite interesting for all slingshot enthusiasts.

I'll start:

Lately, I have been using GZK Yellow (gold colored?) 0.72 mm bands cut to 19 cm (7.48 inches) lengths, 15 mm (0.59 inches) at the forks and 10 mm (0.39 inches) at the pouch, with my Dankung "Toucan" and its band clamp system. This setup allow for a cheekbone-based anchor point for aimed shots at around 10 - 15 yards.

I can expect somewhere between 200 - 250 shots using 7.5 mm steel ammo before the bands give up on me, by either tearing at the forks (this is why I wear safety glasses when shooting), or somewhere midway in the bands.

Your turn...
 

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If you get tearing at the forks, sand the forks down a bit and put a piece of latex between fork and band, to act as a buffer.
Getting a tear halfway though...that's a bit strange.
In any case, you are definitely overpowering your ammo. 7.5mm steel could be probably shot with 1cm straight 0.72 gzk.
As for me, I don't really count, but I don't believe I get less than 600 shots before retying at the pouch.
I will count my current set and let you know though.
Oh, now I am shooting 0.8 gzk, 15.6cm active for a 78cm draw, tapered 17/11, shooting 9.5mm steel.
 

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Very good topic and questions.

Currently I use TBG. It is tapered to 1.7 cm and 1.3 cm. Its active length is 15 cm. I use my cheek bone as an anchor point and I shoot 9.5 mm steel ammos. I can mostly shoot around 300-500 pieces before the first tears appear where the pouch and the band meet. They are tied with wrap and thuck method and with a nylon wire that I got with the Simple Shot band tying jig. I am considering of trying out a new band-pouch tying method like yours (with rubber) so as to reduce the stress on the band next to the pouch. But first I need to find a tutorial video about this method. I am also thinking about trying other bands out (e.g. Precise, GZK). But I am a little bit sceptic about them. I read some reviews about the Precise bands in this forum and they are said to be last only around 200 shots which is not so much. At least much fewer than that I can achieve with the TBG. Oh yes, and I shoot in a cellar where the avarage temperature is around 20-24 degree Celsius.

Hello everybody,

We either shoot bands or tubes for a variety of reasons, but both eventually break and need to be replaced.

Here are a few questions I would like you to answer, if possible;

- What band or tube type do you most commonly use?

- Your preferred length and taper?

- Ammo size and type?

- How long do your band sets or tube sets last before breaking?

- Where did do they tend to break most often e.g. at the forks, mid-way, or at the pouch?

- How old were the band sets or tubes when they failed?

- How were the band sets or tube sets tied to your pouch and your slingshot forks?

- What were the conditions when you were shooting i.e. was is very warm or very cold, or indoor shooting?

This could be quite interesting for all slingshot enthusiasts.

I'll start:

Lately, I have been using GZK Yellow (gold colored?) 0.72 mm bands cut to 19 cm (7.48 inches) lengths, 15 mm (0.59 inches) at the forks and 10 mm (0.39 inches) at the pouch, with my Dankung "Toucan" and its band clamp system. This setup allow for a cheekbone-based anchor point for aimed shots at around 10 - 15 yards.

I can expect somewhere between 200 - 250 shots using 7.5 mm steel ammo before the bands give up on me, by either tearing at the forks (this is why I wear safety glasses when shooting), or somewhere midway in the bands.

Your turn...
 

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Some chinese latex I've been trying lately is breaking midway de band. Odd.
I recently got some precise to try, and have found that it is sensitive to nicks, but it seems to last if it is cut with a sharp blade. I just put a fresh set on a frame, I'll report back about how many shots I get.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

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For flatbands I have switched to .55mm Precise Yellow since the beginning of summer. I have a BB shooter powered by 3/8" x 7" strips and it has seen a crazy number of shots. I also have several sets cut to 13/16" x 5/8" x 7" for 5/16" steel. I only broke one set this summer and the band life was likely shortened because I was shooting lots of 1/4" steel at 260fps. The Yellow lasts a long time and many shooting sessions. I also have some .40mm Precise Green Apple and have broken several sets with a moderate amount of shots. I broke a couple of sets of purple Sanctband during the summer and got about 300-400 shots but I was abusing them with 300fps BBs.

The Precise bands are always wrapped at the forks with latex and tied at the pouch with clear poly ribbon. The bands break at the pouch or close to it. I never get breaks at the forks.
 

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I tapper all my bands, I prefer extreme tappers. I infuse talcum powder in the poutch joints, I use 2-3 bands per side. Most of the time just one of the 4 bands will give out. Dissemble bands replace broke band with new one. Mark it some how maybe with a different color tye. Speaking of I only use rubber for tying. Doing this you can weed out the band rubber. Then my bands some times shock me how long they last. I am still using the blue set I made with wide tapered bands at starting at 1 ¹\⁴ to 3\⁴th full butterfly 30 foot pounder. I made this set new when I signed up here.
 

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Alright! The results are in. I got about 425 shots before this set broke close to the pouch. This is with the yellow/orange precise tapered from 3/4"-5/8" 7.5" active length ( 20-15 mm, 18.5 cm active length). I was shooting 7/16" steel.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

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Alright! The results are in. I got about 425 shots before this set broke close to the pouch. This is with the yellow/orange precise tapered from 3/4"-5/8" 7.5" active length ( 20-15 mm, 18.5 cm active length). I was shooting 7/16" steel.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Is this the 0.75 precise? Could you tell me your draw length and if the speeds are good with this setup?
 
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Alright! The results are in. I got about 425 shots before this set broke close to the pouch. This is with the yellow/orange precise tapered from 3/4"-5/8" 7.5" active length ( 20-15 mm, 18.5 cm active length). I was shooting 7/16" steel.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Is this the 0.75 precise? Could you tell me your draw length and if the speeds are good with this setup?
Yep, my draw is about 76 cm. I don't have a chrony, but the speed seems pretty good. With 9.5mm steel it is really fast but seems overpowered. With the 7/16" (11.1mm) steel it is reasonably fast without slapping or fliers.
 

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I'm still working my way through the first batch of 1745 I got to try out the hobby. Trying all sorts of tying methods and loop/taper combos.

Pseudo tapers, I get around 300 shots with a really aggressive taper pulled to max stretch. It always breaks where the loop is tied. With a tame taper and only pulling to 400% I get close to 3k shots before breaking at the pouch. Don't know if that's a consistent figure yet.

I know the biggest problem by far for me is the 1745 being too tight to use for a cuff on itself. The cuff cuts through the band every time, long before the rubber gets tired. I'm ordering some lighter tube with my next order to use as cuffs, hopefully it will help with the problem.

Looped 1745 is just too impractical to actually use since I don't have any bowling balls to shoot with, so Im still on my first set.

I've switched to single 1745 for a bit to try it out. I'm using what was the loop section of the aggressive taper, since it was barely used. Speed seems almost the same as a medium taper(needs to be confirmed) but its much more enjoyable to shoot. About 500 shots so far I think, and zero signs of wear. At 500% stretch its faster than the 400% stretch taper, and I'm hoping for similar band life.

On a side note. The dangkung premium 1745 seems to top out at around 200fps even with very light ammo. There's only a few percent difference in speed between 3gram steel and 7.5gram steel. I'm using sound to measure so don't knownif the 200fps figure is accurate, but it is VERY consistent.
 

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On a side note. The dangkung premium 1745 seems to top out at around 200fps even with very light ammo. There's only a few percent difference in speed between 3gram steel and 7.5gram steel. I'm using sound to measure so don't knownif the 200fps figure is accurate, but it is VERY consistent.
Bill Hays qualified for both Speed Freaks and Power Rangers at 419.5 fps using 1745. You do have to stretch it to get higher speed.

https://slingshotforum.com/topic/21109-slingshot-forum-300-club/
 

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On a side note. The dangkung premium 1745 seems to top out at around 200fps even with very light ammo. There's only a few percent difference in speed between 3gram steel and 7.5gram steel. I'm using sound to measure so don't knownif the 200fps figure is accurate, but it is VERY consistent.
Bill Hays qualified for both Speed Freaks and Power Rangers at 419.5 fps using 1745. You do have to stretch it to get higher speed.

https://slingshotforum.com/topic/21109-slingshot-forum-300-club/
Thanks for that, very nice to know.

Im pretty sure the limiting factor is the short draw im using, 32inches. Im happy with it for now, just enjoying the learning process. Im sure ill eventually start extending it out to get some higher speed.

Since im sticking with tubes for now ill look up bills qualifying post to check out his setup and get some ideas :)
 
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