Good discussion of a topic that challenges many who want to start with frameless shooting!
Thanks Kawkan! Means a lot coming from a master like yourself!Good discussion of a topic that challenges many who want to start with frameless shooting!
Hi Sanch, yes this method works for flats as well, I personally have tested it myself. In fact, I would argue that it works even better with flats because flats "lock" onto your fingers better than tubes. Even after forming the finger frame, tubes can still shift a little bit; but flats, maybe because of its wider surface area, doesn't move at all.Interesting, I usually just cut my flats @14" for all my setups 14 has been my magic number as 13"active is my perfect set up for full Albatros. That gives me 1/4" loss at pouch attachment and 3/4" @ the frame which I usually only loose 1/2" with the way I have been banding (inverted flip over) I may add your method just to eee what type of elongation and difference is apparent. That is assuming this method works for flats.
Hi Whytey! I remember you from my other post about tubes - you had that awesome frameless flat band setup!
Wow I had no idea he did it differently, thank you. It's interesting cause Volp is primarily a frameless tube shooter.I have found success following Volp's technique with flat bands.
Just tested it out, nope doesn't work for tubes. Not pre-pulling tubes will cause it to stretch out of your finger, because tubes doesn't bind to the fingers as well as flats does.Wow I had no idea he did it differently, thank you. It's interesting cause Volp is primarily a frameless tube shooter.
Will need to try it out. Wonder if it's ok if I don't pre-pull my tubes as well.