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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I`m Norwegian and started shooting around 1 year ago. I have read much in this forum but something still escape me.

How to make a bandset, that gives 100m/s.

I have bought a cronograph, and get around 70m/s on any band or tubes i use. Chineese, TBG, Latex, 1745/1842/2040 (single/semi/double). As of lately ive started using premade Chineese flats as they are dirt cheap and only loose to TBG with a few m/s. 68 to 70.

Got a 92cm/36" draw, and shooting PFS. Anything else i just cant hit with, or i get fork hits. Full butterfly (160cm/63") with TBG/1745 dont give me much more, only a few m/s more than a normal draw 72-78ms. I draw til the band stops.

If i double my bands or tubes i only get nasty slaps. If i put more power into the bands, the worse the slap, but no more speed. So any good suggestions would make me very glad. i usually shoot in 10-20c

In advance sorry for misspelling!
 

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How long is your band (in rest position)?

I shoot a 32" draw and use around 7" (21cm) of band - with single 1842 you should easily be breaking 100... Pseudo - about 1.5-2" loop even more.

And Welcome!
 

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I`m Norwegian and started shooting around 1 year ago. I have read much in this forum but something still escape me.

How to make a bandset, that gives 100m/s.

I have bought a cronograph, and get around 70m/s on any band or tubes i use. Chineese, TBG, Latex, 1745/1842/2040 (single/semi/double). As of lately ive started using premade Chineese flats as they are dirt cheap and only loose to TBG with a few m/s. 68 to 70.

Got a 92cm/36" draw, and shooting PFS. Anything else i just cant hit with, or i get fork hits. Full butterfly (160cm/63") with TBG/1745 dont give me much more, only a few m/s more than a normal draw 72-78ms. I draw til the band stops.

If i double my bands or tubes i only get nasty slaps. If i put more power into the bands, the worse the slap, but no more speed. So any good suggestions would make me very glad. i usually shoot in 10-20c

In advance sorry for misspelling!
I didn't see you mention tapered bands. That can only be achieved by tapered bands, which means less shots per set.

With a tapered bands or tube, Shooting with a speed over is not that difficult. You just drag fast to the maximum stretch and release your pouch immediately.

Sent from my EML-L29 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you for the fast response :panic: .

I`ll go back to the 1842 then and try some semi loops again. Last one snaped mid-tube after 5 shots. Yes i do use taper, usually 2-1 my current TBG - is 25mm to 13mm.

I`ll go shorter and see if it helps. =)

Just one question. When i draw the TBG, it stops, but its more to pull, but it feels like pulling on chewing gum. It feels strange and im afraid the bands gonna brake. Is this right?.

/Uba
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I cut some 1745 semi looped and went out again. 11 c out side 10 shots thru the Chrono. Started at 80 m/s, then 82 m/s. Rest landed around 87.x with one shot going 90.2 m/s. Still missing 10m/s :stupidcomp: :cursin: . This was drawn to what i consider max-ish. :naughty:

Took a pic of my setup:

20190616_223523.jpg

So 1842 would be better?

Cheers!

/Uba
 

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Just wanted to say nice frames. :)
 
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A question. Why the desire for these speeds?

It can be a little tortoise and the hare...

Faster speeds come for the projectile being onder load as long as possible. Can try a starship setup...
 

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. . . . . I have bought a cronograph, and get around 70m/s on any band or tubes i use. Chineese, TBG, Latex, 1745/1842/2040 (single/semi/double). As of lately ive started using premade Chineese flats as they are dirt cheap and only loose to TBG with a few m/s. 68 to 70. . . . . . . .
For a given taper cut, I find Precise 3rd generation very good and I think that it beats Theraband but I am no expert.

With the Chronograph, I find that for a given draw length and stretch factor, increasing rubber width/thickness (and draw weight) beyond a certain point actually reduces speed. The SimpleShot tutorial videos show this very well too. It's all about hand slap too.

I am told that to increase speed beyond what you (and I) have already tried, I would have to extend draw length to "3/4 to full butterfly", which with practice might take me personally out to about 1250 mm draw length, USING RELATIVELY LIGHT flatbands.

See my current thread

https://slingshotforum.com/topic/117318-why-shoot-butterfly-full-or-semi/

I am not on the same journey as you because I shoot at 4.75x stretch for great flatband life.

But I am about to try moderate butterfly, for fun, using my safest slingshot with 65 mm fork gap (see photo).

I have no idea why a PFS would help in your particular quest. Most people use slings with 45-65mm fork gaps.

Good luck,

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ty for an informative post Mike, and a very nice sligshot you got. Yes my main problem with full butterfly (162cm) is that i feel the bands or tubes getting too heavy, and the hole setup feels sluggish. If I use TBG, it dont feel snappy enough. Im gonna try a single 1842 with full butterfly or at least semi. Wide forks aint for me as i cant hit anything with it :panic:

/Uba
 

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Matt asked already, and I wonder too. Why the need for extreme speeds? Is it for longer distance shooting? If so, there are easier techniques to use.
 

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Why the need for speed? Fun, power, braging, flat trajectory. Maybe its more a mental goal for me, finding a configuration that i can work with and get good at, still powerfull and fast. Ive read alot thru the last year about the physics of rubber/latex, compounds, setups, tapers, band/tube life, coctails, loops, semi loops, power to weight ratios, tying pouches, cuffing, restrictorknots, and more :nerd: . The basic prinsipal is the contrationspeed and power of the material used vs the mass of the setup and amunition. In general slingshots are not leagal in my contry :angrymod: . But a few years back they allowed somthing called "Husflidsprettert" (Husflid=handmade/crafted, Sprettert=slingshot) The ban was put in place to get rid of most powerfull fabrikation slingshots. And to my understanding that is anything with and arm brace. Ive tested this with importing 3 types of slingshots, all without a brace and they got thru custom and have not recived any legal notice to show up in court. There is every year a newspaper headline of someone going to court for importing a slingshot with a brace, and the fine is big (unleagal weapon). So thats my background for research into compounds, speed and setup for my slingshot. Since im imperial 100 m/s is just a number, if I would use ft/s it probably would be 300 ft/s. :banana:

I understand the reason for higher speed with wider fork, longer acceleration time. PFS is for me about portable frame format, and i quite enjoy it. :bonk:

Cheers!

/Uba
 

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The speeds you are currently getting are pretty high in general. If you can get 200f/s with 8mm you can easily hunt with these speeds. Also speed may come at the loss of accuracy - why I say is could be tortoise and hare. Slow and heavy may be more accurate over light and fast (and could also be more energy transfer).

100m/s is closer to 330f/s.

Personally I like to go with adequate speed but more accurate. Think my only setups that are reaching in excess of 300f/s would be my .177 BB ones...

But if it is your goal - check out the speed freaks sections in the competitions forums. Some guys are getting speeds over 500f/s. I suspect this is only possible with very long draw setups (along with full butterfly) - which probably suggests starship type frames and using a brace - which you mention is illegal in Norway... I'd look into who is getting the high speeds in the speed freak section and seeing if you can ask those members how they achieved those speeds.
 
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