Slingshots Forum banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·






I know I've made a beautiful slingshot look somewhat tacky. I know it's not a valid way to aim a slingshot. I built it to see how much my hand wobbles under different conditions of band tension and grip style. There's comments on that in my blog post: How does draw strength affect accuracy.

The point of showing it here was some of you might like to see how I attached it ... and to give you all a good laugh, of course.
 

· Brotherhood Of The Slingshot Nutz
Joined
·
2,013 Posts
I like that kind of stuff. I have a mini mag hooked up to one of my slingshots for shooting at night and it really helps too. How much do those things cost and where do you get them from?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got the <5mw laser and sight rail from Apliu Street in Hong Kong. I spent about $30, but I have a cosy relationship with the store. I had to cut and respray the rail to fit. Yes, it would take a flashlight with the right mount. I plan to sell it when I'm done with it.
 

· Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,313 Posts
I love playing around with that stuff and experimenting in general! If it works ,the heck with what it looks like! Flatband
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm not too keen on tactical slingshots normally, but this was a means to an end and less destructive than boring a big hole through it.

If one did want a tactical slingshot, the possibilities are endless. It might look good with a light on it. I wouldn't want to put a camera on it. An M203 grenade launcher or a whisky flask would hit the spot.

A fishing reel would require a metal handle. Actually, that's the kind of thing that Hogansonscastings would excel at.

An integral 2, 3 or 4 sided sight rail would allow for multiple accessory attachments like a removable wrist brace, stabilisers or what have you.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Hi ZDP-189
Lets give it a shot ! a joint project i like it pm me let see if we can move it on
HOGAN CASTINGS UK
When the above design is finalised, I'll release the design and directly associated IP to you. Do you want it prototyping or are you set up better to do it in-house?

What do you think of casting practicality? BTW, the tapped screw holes are optional.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
It just occurred to me that some sights have spacing screws, so if we wanted to make it universally compatible, a little milling would be required. Bummer. I leave that up to Pete. Sorry, mate.

I still think it has merit. This design would allow lots and lots of options. Some examples:

  • Sight pips
  • Red dot sights (maybe valid with a brace)
  • Flashlight
  • Camera
  • Stabilisers
  • Arrow rest (at least 2 methods)
  • Wrist brace
  • Lanyard
  • Weights
  • Grips
  • Chrony brace for test shooting
  • Stock and trigger
  • Rangefinder
  • Fishing reel
  • Whisky flask
  • Spring- or gravity-fed magazine
  • Belt hook
Some above possibilities might also be mounted across more than one rail, or in one of the threaded or keyed holes.

Some modification may become needed with the fork tip rails to add clearance. I don't know how bands will shoot over and I don't want them to snag. This is one way I might bring the tip rails down and away. it's less elegant, but it gets them away from the tips.



In this variant, I have also narrowed the fork gap.



Opinions? Besides it looking like a Roddenberry-era Klingon Bird of Prey
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
No, as it turns out, you're right. I did a mock up and realised that it can't be gripped hammer-style because the bottom rails and structure interferes with the lower part of the hand. I addition, the top has become unwieldy. After extending the handle, I looked at it's a beast; an angular corss-like structure - something an alien priest might carry. I need to dump the lower side rails and go to a more traditional Y-shape because that will cut bulk at the top.
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If that means adjusting the angle of the rail, I intended that to be taken care of by the elevation adjustment on the sight. If you want to swing the rail then I will need to design moving parts which must be cast separately. Is that what you want?
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Pete,

I'm going to take some micarta or MDF board and cut the profile out using a bandsaw, a belt sander, a drill press and a hand file filing flush to the jaws of the vise. In this way, I will know that all the edges are square and will ensure that all the mounts are square and parallel. I will assemble the slingshot from separate blocks so that the inner corners will be sharp. The handle will be 3/8" thick, the fork tips 3/16" and the rails maybe 1 1/2". I may make some fillets between the blocks for strength and to help the pour. I will precisely step the handle forward into the tips with the bevels shown. The tips will be rounded over. I may build up more of a pistol grip if more bulk is needed.

The slingshot is supposed to be shot sideways 'gangsta-style'.



The sites would be mounted on the side of the tips. I will only use one lower rail, positioned at the bottom. The lower side rails have gone.

I will do all this fairly soon after the design is finalised, but I have the 1,000 posts competition fork to do first.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
I love the design ZDP-189.

Suggestions:
1) Do not cast or mill the rails. Just provide the mounting surfaces and screw points to attach RIS rails to certain places. All the points you have look good. RIS rails come in many different styles and lengths to fit different components. People can buy the rails themselves cheaply. You can find on the web what thread and tap RIS rails use.

2) The band attachment points on the fork should be inter-changable. Meaning fork tips should be screwed on or off to allow different mounting styles and bands. That way you can sell accessories on attaching different bands cleanly to the fork tips.

3) Add three taps to attach stabilizers for the front. So either the straight out or "V" configuration can be used. And one at the bottom as a vertical weight.

If these can be done and milled ( not casted ) from aluminum I will buy one from you no doubt. Put me down as the first order. If you can't anodize that's ok, I can easily find an annodizer to do it in dust black. If you can't find a machine shop I have a contact that I have used in the past. He does insanely amazing work. Based on my own designs he has made me one-off prototypes. Some stainless steel, aluminum, and delrin.

http://www.sergisonmachine.net

If you can't make this, can you publish this design under the Creative Commons for non-commercial use? I can then price it out for one to be made as a one-off for myself.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top