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Missing Barns and Telling Yarns
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Hey, welcome to the forum! Those are some nice looking frames! There are people much more qualified to speak on this than I, but there are several factors that could be affecting your accuracy. How long have you been shooting? And have you had better accuracy with other frames, or are these your first ones to shoot?

I know holding the pouch, releasing the pouch, and having consistent form are all big points of focus. There are a couple really good videos to watch in the Beginner Question Forum. As to your setup, it looks pretty good to me. I'll leave it to the experts to dissect things in more detail. Good luck, and glad to have you on the forum!
 

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Hey, welcome to the forum! Those are some nice looking frames! There are people much more qualified to speak on this than I, but there are several factors that could be affecting your accuracy. How long have you been shooting? And have you had better accuracy with other frames, or are these your first ones to shoot?

I know holding the pouch, releasing the pouch, and having consistent form are all big points of focus. There are a couple really good videos to watch in the Beginner Question Forum. As to your setup, it looks pretty good to me. I'll leave it to the experts to dissect things in more detail. Good luck, and glad to have you on the forum!
Than you. I am a newbie so, my impressions may be wrong. My shots after 20m (65ft) have a parabolic trajectory
 

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Hey, welcome to the forum! Those are some nice looking frames! There are people much more qualified to speak on this than I, but there are several factors that could be affecting your accuracy. How long have you been shooting? And have you had better accuracy with other frames, or are these your first ones to shoot?

I know holding the pouch, releasing the pouch, and having consistent form are all big points of focus. There are a couple really good videos to watch in the Beginner Question Forum. As to your setup, it looks pretty good to me. I'll leave it to the experts to dissect things in more detail. Good luck, and glad to have you on the forum!
Than you. I am a newbie so, my impressions may be wrong. My shots after 20m (65ft) have a parabolic trajectory
If you are new to the sport you should prob start shooting at 5 meters. You gotta walk before you run. Most ammo is gonna have a drop at 20 meters. I have been shooting for a while and I shoot at 10m.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

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Kar120c welcome to the Forum Those are awesome frames I know from my personal experience, I made shooting a slingshot a lot harder than it needed to be. As TreeFork said, “ just have fun” looking forward to you sharing your experience with slingshots.
 

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Hi kar120c,

welcome to the forum and to the slingshots!

I think your slingshots are beautiful, real naturals, congratulations!

I am not completely sure what you mean by "your bb doesn't go straight" and by "after 20m (65ft) have a parabolic trajectory"

IF this means that your projectile flies first slightly up and then after some time flies down, then it is perfectly normal with a ballistic trajectory, it should be so. This is the reason for the whole science of aiming, elevating and many other interesting stuff.

IF you mean that your projectile goes not where you want but to the side although you aim straight than besides normal inaccuracy caused by many reasons it is also possible that your bands are not really of equal power - they should be cut exactly the same way and be of exactly the same length.

However, I am really sorry if I did not understand you well..

cheers,

jazz
 

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Nice frame. As others have said start out shooting a shorter distance.

Are your bands the correct length? How long is your draw length? Take your draw length and divide by 5. This should be the distance between the pouch ties and the fork tips when the bands are in a relaxed state.

If you are having accuracy problems it is probably a pouch release issue. There are many videos on YouTube about proper pouch release. Most accuracy issues come from poor pouch release.
 

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Draw length is how far back you pull the bands when shooting. Measure from the fork are tip to the pouch and divide by 5. This the length of the bands when relaxed.

Do you anchor the bands to ascertain spot every time?
 

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Things that come to mind. As said, release, band length, Weight of ammo to the bands. If your ammo is too heavy for the bands, it just lobs it down range. Thus the arc you mentioned. If the bands are too long for the anchor point you are using you get the same effect. It takes a while to bring it all together so stick with it and it will come to you.
 

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Your fiondas are fine, no problem there. Some key issues for you to look at:

- Ideally, start shooting at distances between 6 and 10 meters for the best results; anything beyond 15 meters gets more difficult with slingshots.

- Stand sideways relative to your target with your feet aligned (like in archery);

- Use a steady anchor point (such as the cheekbone) when aiming and shooting to ensure a consistent draw weight and position relative to the target;

- Look at tutorials to improve your shooting technique - such as this video by "SimpleShot", a well renowned slingshot maker in the US;


The steel ammo should have a trajectory that is as straight as possible - some factors involved:

Symmetrical band lengths and widths are essential, the pouch size should be adapted to the ammo size used;

Quality & thickness of the rubber used to make flat bands (look at exercise rubber such as "Thera-Band" or rubber specifically made for slingshots, to cut your own bands using a rotary cutter on a special cutting board (look up the "Olfa" brand). There are other ways of cutting flat bands too. Some links:

https://www.amazon.fr/Thera-Band-origine-exercice-Resistance-couleurs/dp/B00HT0AG12/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1547971887&sr=8-6&keywords=theraband%2Belastique&th=1

and/or

https://trade.onloon.net/detail?itemId=46710b1dff8148a58d7488c854769a41

Flat bands are best cut tapered (wider at the forks, narrower at the pouch), as this increases projectile velocity, but also decreases the chance of the bands breaking at the forks - which is much safer. I personally always use safety glasses when shooting.

An active flat band length (the length without the extra band length used to attach both band ends to the forks and the pouch) of 18-19 cm, cut to 20 mm width at the forks and 14 mm at the pouch (30% taper) should work well for rubber thicknesses between 0.5 and 0.8 mm if you are using a cheekbone-based anchor point. Have a look at the information on this forum regarding flat bands and tubes.

Rubber does not perform too well in colder weather. That said, Chinese flat band rubber also performs quite well in colder temperatures.

Least but not last, regular practice is essential, keep at it.
 
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