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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Nothing like a nice bit of birch.... even a soggy windfall. Especially if it fits my hand so perfectly in a hammer grip. I've done nothing to it other than cut it to size with an Opinel folding saw and trim the edges and ears with a pocket knife.

I like the ease of band change offered by Yellowhammer's screw-eyes but I was after a more trad look and something which could be easily made with whatever's kicking around.

This time I want to have a go at the butterfly draw so I've gone for long, 1842 tubes - 6.5 inch loop and 5 inch single strand, roughly, attached at the pouch (3x1 inch 'roo) with 1/2 inch bits of the same tube and at the loop with a 1/4 inch bit of tube under a constrictor knot, in front of an overhand knot in the main tube to prevent slippage. I haven't accidentally taken out any windows with it yet.
 

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Cogito Ergo Armatum Sum
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1,014 Posts
That's a most excellent mod of a standard gypsy tab. Did you come up with that on your own? I like the tapered tubes too. I wonder how they perform vs a single tube tied at both ends and a normal full length loop?
 

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Nice job ... and nice innovations! There is always more to be learned. Special thanks for posting this one.

Cheers ...... Charles
 

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Very nice setup, I really like this one. What kind of string is that it almost looks like you coated it afterwards?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Many thanks for your kind comments! I actually spent ages figuring this simple system out. I first tried knots/toggles and loops but they were bulky and less secure. The cord is polyester, uncoated and found in a ship's chandlers or outdoor shop. I might use 'roo skin for the next one.

The bands are based on Henry's findings for 1842 tubing with the loop:single strand ratio at roughly 4:3. I'm still experimenting with the proportions for different lengths of draw. The tapers are fast, quiet and non-hand-slappy but don't last long. I think I need to take a bit of emery to my ground-down circlip pliers to keep the tubing from getting scuffed at the attachment points, which is where the bands have always broken so far. I use plain loops for longevity. With this system it's easy to have the catty mounted with fast but fragile tubing and have a spare, plain loop band set as backup.
 

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Member, Brotherhood of Slingshot Nutz
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Thank you for posting this. Like Charles, I am very happy to have learned something new. Well done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's nice to contribute, after adopting so many of other slingshooter's ideas. And look - it has RealBark cammo!

I'd beware of just using 1842 ligatures to fasten the band at the pouch - I've just tested a short set (rear shoulder draw) to destruction and the band slipped out before it had a chance to break. I don't know if 1745 tubing would be better but for now I'll use 1/4 inch ligatures with a constrictor knot on top.
 
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