[Sean Khan]

Has anyone ever felt the need to measure how hard the pull of your bands is?

What I'm asking is, should I get this? Or waste of money?

No, I don't have any other pull measuring device at the moment. And using bathroom scales would be dumb and desperate. I am not that desperate.

 

[Bugar]

I got some old scales at a thrift store, that are accurate, will go to 50 pounds, I rig up a board thingie and check weights from time to time, most that I shoot are 16 to 20 pounds at my draw,, have went to 50 couple times, 30 also, but the 16 or so just feels good and comfy for me, haven't done any draw weight checking for quite a while now, might be different, with my different and sometimes weird setups, it's real interesting, the draw weights.

 

[Sean Khan]

So as a slingshot maker/tweaker, it would help me if I could measure the pull....

Okay... thanks.

 

[Bugar]

I keep a log on each slingshot and bands and ammo, as how fast they shoot each kind of ammo,, dunno why, just a fun thing to do, it is interesting tho

 

[jazz]

I have something similar, a scale that is I believe called luggage scale, but it boils down to the same thing and I am very satisfied.

My draw due to rheumatic pains in my shoulders is at most 4.5 kg.

cheers,

jazz

 

[Grandpa Grumpy]

I am not sure there is any reason to need to know the draw weight. I just shoot the lightest bands to match the ammo I am shooting.

A couple of years ago I used a bow scale to measure measure the draw weight of several different tube and band sets. Having that information hasn't helped me in any way.

 

[Sean Khan]

Having that information hasn't helped me in any way.

Ah.

 

[MathisSlingshot]

It's probably fun to measure while experimenting with different bandsets, to see if a different taper has better speeds related to the draw weight etc. but I don't think that isn't anyway necessary if the money could be spend on Latex and Ammo I'm not sure but I think I heard that there's a golden rule, that target bands should have a draw weight under 5 kg. But I am not sure about this.

 

[Sean Khan]

that target bands should have a draw weight under 5 kg. But I am not sure about this.

Good to know. However my interest is in hunting not targeting.

I am not a hunter... I do not understand the concept of hunting when we can get our food from a freezer... and the idea of hunting animals (reptiles being an exception) makes me sad and depressed.

But for hypothetical "zombie" situations.... that's a totally different story.

I am not out to bash someone's head in... but I want to make sure I have the capability.

 

[Tremoside]

I have a fishing scale that has a backlit screen, measures temperature and has a hold function with a beep sound. Perfect for measuring bands.

Mine is similar, just as price:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Portable-50kg-10g-LCD-Digital-Fish-Hanging-Luggage-Weight-Electronic-Hook-Scale-/332112013815

 

[raventree78]

Yup I measure mine from time to time using a fish scale. Mostly it is when I get a set that really "does it" for me and I make notes about the draw weight, length, width, pouch, frame, etc so that I have a better chance of recreating them

 

[AUSSIE4]

I use some small electronic fish scales I got off eBay for around $20Aud and they work great. You can switch between lb, kg, jin and oz. Obviously for draw weight I use lb. I currently have a 12lb draw with .8 sheshou 20/15 taper shooting 8mm steels very fast. I may add that I have taken lots of game with this setup mainly feral pest pigeons and pest birds such as Myna and Starling birds. Have yet to take a rabbit with it yet but I know it is easily capable of doing so. I am getting away in a couple weeks time in which I am confident I will be able to take one or two for the pot or the dogs. I will also add they are an extreme pest where I live and the farmers want them out. Catapult Carnage Chris, only uses 8mm steels for hunting as well as many other hunters. It is a very flat trajectory and very fast. With the right setup it is very capible of taking game such as rabbits out at 20-25m and pigeons I have taken out to 35m with head, neck and upper-chest shots.

 

[robbo]

I use some small electronic fish scales I got off eBay for around $20Aud and they work great. You can switch between lb, kg, jin and oz. Obviously for draw weight I use lb. I currently have a 12lb draw with .8 sheshou 20/15 taper shooting 8mm steels very fast. I may add that I have taken lots of game with this setup mainly feral pest pigeons and pest birds such as Myna and Starling birds. Have yet to take a rabbit with it yet but I know it is easily capable of doing so. I am getting away in a couple weeks time in which I am confident I will be able to take one or two for the pot or the dogs. I will also add they are an extreme pest where I live and the farmers want them out. Catapult Carnage Chris, only uses 8mm steels for hunting as well as many other hunters. It is a very flat trajectory and very fast. With the right setup it is very capible of taking game such as rabbits out at 20-25m and pigeons I have taken out to 35m with head, neck and upper-chest shots.

hows the band life with a 20x15 taper mate,do you yous a light pouch as well.i am about to try my sheshou .8 i have been shooting 8mm steel for a long time with precise .75 taper 19x9.5 it goes well but i have heard sheshou is better i was going to try the same cut as i use with the precise to compare have you tried less rubber for 8mm steel,if you have how did it go regards robbo

 

[Cjw]

I don't care what the pull weight is. As long as my bands and tubes are comfortable to pull and I'm hitting my targets accurately. That's all the matters.

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[MOJAVE MO]

I've got the tools, the charts, and even Jazz' Super-Tech software program. However, I'm 56 and have a serious unlike of being controlled or told what to do (ask my 3rd wife).
I also am a verified 'rubber dunce' so all of my rubber selections are based on feel, luck, and remembering my past mistakes(exception are the wives). Which overall is very unscientific and often terrifying (just like the wives). I do have a huge amount of respect for the shooters that engage the rubber algorithms. Good Luck! Mo

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[StringSlap]

I'm with the "why?" group. Can't really see how knowing the draw weight could possibly make a difference. If I can comfortably draw, release smoothly and consistently hit my target, then how would knowing if I'm pulling 14, 15.2, 15.7, etc. pounds make a difference? If I base my setups on draw weight alone, I can guarantee I'll end up with mismatched ammo/band(tube) combos. Then it becomes another thing to focus on when I don't reach my optimal draw weight. If your best setup has a draw weight of 16.2 pounds, what are you going to do when the next one is off by a few ounces? Re-cut, add/subtract a fraction of length, measure the thickness of the bands and maybe have to buy a new roll because the one you just got doesn't duplicate the last one? I understand there are folks that like to measure, test and tweak things to the n'th degree, but IMO that time would be much better spent shooting!

 

[Cjw]

And heavy draw weight doesn't mean harder hitting and faster speeds. Just shoot a store bought wrist brace sling shot. Hard to pull the bands and slow speeds.

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[Alfred E.M.]

I like information. Knowing if a setup has a 5 or 8 lb draw weight will determine how long the shooting session might be. Northerner's extensive testing will often include minor differences between brands and cuts ... it doesn't hurt to be aware of such things and is useful to some, especially bc it can affect band life and shot count. Some are into details, others not so much.

There are subtle differences between 1636, 1632, and DK's 'new edition' 1632 which I believe is actually 1530. Wll is touting the new 1030 tubing and that draw weight will be nice to know when deciding single or full loop configurations for ammo matching. It's all good.

 

[Bugar]

Ok-ok what I actually do - when I am banding, or tubing, I cut my elastic usually long, cause bout everything I have has different setups, the end I check my pull as to how it feels and cut and tie at a comfy length, not measuring or weighing, and shoot as I always do, then comes winter, crap weather, or some excuse, so to do something slingshotery, I drag out the scales and the crony, shoot out the open garage door, and log this info down, great pastime, beats watching as the world turns, or reality stuff, I have all my shooters setup for comfy shooting, not for weight or size, just comfy ness, and to kill TIME.

i do just about the same thing with my airguns, got a log on them too, speed, weight of pelllet, type of pellet.

lube and service log on my car too, home maintenance, hey I keep track of stuff

 

[robbo]

I've got the tools, the charts, and even Jazz' Super-Tech software program. However, I'm 56 and have a serious unlike of being controlled or told what to do (ask my 3rd wife).
I also am a verified 'rubber dunce' so all of my rubber selections are based on feel, luck, and remembering my past mistakes(exception are the wives). Which overall is very unscientific and often terrifying (just like the wives). I do have a huge amount of respect for the shooters that engage the rubber algorithms. Good Luck! Mo

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

your not a rubber dunce mate,2 or 3 woman picked the wrong man not the other way around lol robbo.