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"500+fps Speed demon"
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668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as a result of seeing some very shiny milbro replicas being made by people from aluminium sheet, i thought i might aswell have a bash at it.

So i have acquired a few materials:

Aluminium blank

Knife scales for handle

What i want to know is:

How will i go about attaching the scales to the aluminium blank? Im thinking pins of some sort ( if so what type of pins? ) and maybe epoxy!

What sort of elastic works best? 6-8mm square or tubes!

And if theres anything else i should know, your input will be much appreciated!!

Regards
John
 

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Premium Member
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2,167 Posts
There was a firm on there selling them for £3.50 each or 5 for £15 i was going to get a few i,ll see if i can find them, cheers jeff
Cheers Jeff, i take it you mean pins?
[/quote]
no the blanks, ive just had a look there is none on at the moment, but every now and then they put some on, if i come across them again i,l send you the link, i was going to but 20 off them but chained my mind, jeff

ps ive found the seller he has none on will pm you the name and link, jeff
 

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Loves the Pocketshooter
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182 Posts
I like to use 1/8 inch brass brazing rod, 3 foot piece cost me less than 5 dollars at the hardware store. Makes a lot of pins. For epoxy use something that cures overnight, not in 5 minutes. You should also think about roughing the aluminum before gluing. I like to glue and peen my pins as well. Good luck, I'm sure it will come out great.
 

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"500+fps Speed demon"
Joined
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668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I like to use 1/8 inch brass brazing rod, 3 foot piece cost me less than 5 dollars at the hardware store. Makes a lot of pins. For epoxy use something that cures overnight, not in 5 minutes. You should also think about roughing the aluminum before gluing. I like to glue and peen my pins as well. Good luck, I'm sure it will come out great.
When using the brazing rods, is it just a case of drilling through wood and blank, cutting the pin to size and setting in place with epoxy? Or does the pin need widened at both ends?
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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1,621 Posts
There was a firm on there selling them for £3.50 each or 5 for £15 i was going to get a few i,ll see if i can find them, cheers jeff
Cheers Jeff, i take it you mean pins?
[/quote]
no the blanks, ive just had a look there is none on at the moment, but every now and then they put some on, if i come across them again i,l send you the link, i was going to but 20 off them but chained my mind, jeff

ps ive found the seller he has none on will pm you the name and link, jeff
[/quote]
Hi Jeff that may be down to us they were using our trade name ( MILBRO) to sell them on ebay
We paid a lot of money for the (TM) name and are now clamping down on the main offenders on ebay and youtube
we make blanks also you see in brass and aluminium
 

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Loves the Pocketshooter
Joined
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182 Posts
I like to use 1/8 inch brass brazing rod, 3 foot piece cost me less than 5 dollars at the hardware store. Makes a lot of pins. For epoxy use something that cures overnight, not in 5 minutes. You should also think about roughing the aluminum before gluing. I like to glue and peen my pins as well. Good luck, I'm sure it will come out great.
When using the brazing rods, is it just a case of drilling through wood and blank, cutting the pin to size and setting in place with epoxy? Or does the pin need widened at both ends?
[/quote]

You've got the idea. For pins I do both. I don't find it that important to epoxy them. If you use some good CA (super) glue, I think that is sufficient. The peen I mentioned, is the widening of the ends, as you stated. I think doing this really helps keep it together in the long run. For the aluminum blank, I would drill the holes in the blank first. Epoxy one side of your handle, and then drill the holes in the wood. Glue up the other side, and then drill holes through the second handle side. You want to make sure your epoxy is set before you do any drilling though. Learned to handle full tang knives this way. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.
 

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"500+fps Speed demon"
Joined
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668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I like to use 1/8 inch brass brazing rod, 3 foot piece cost me less than 5 dollars at the hardware store. Makes a lot of pins. For epoxy use something that cures overnight, not in 5 minutes. You should also think about roughing the aluminum before gluing. I like to glue and peen my pins as well. Good luck, I'm sure it will come out great.
When using the brazing rods, is it just a case of drilling through wood and blank, cutting the pin to size and setting in place with epoxy? Or does the pin need widened at both ends?
[/quote]

For the aluminum blank, I would drill the holes in the blank first. Epoxy one side of your handle, and then drill the holes in the wood. Glue up the other side, and then drill holes through the second handle side. You want to make sure your epoxy is set before you do any drilling though. Learned to handle full tang knives this way. Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

[/quote]

Great idea, would help with hole alignment!! Thanks MM, i hope my new found knowledge will show in the final piece.
 

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I've jus finished my own milbro copy with wooden scales I epoxied them on and found it strong enough but also for the looks I used two steel nails as pins and also square elastic as it looks awsome pictures coming soon
grant
 

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"500+fps Speed demon"
Joined
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668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've jus finished my own milbro copy with wooden scales I epoxied them on and found it strong enough but also for the looks I used two steel nails as pins and also square elastic as it looks awsome pictures coming soon
grant
I figured epoxy would be strong enough, but my catties get worked hard so the extra support of pins was always on the cards!! Get them pics up asap, we would love a butchers...
 
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