[Griffo]

I've learned a lot from reading this forum so I wanted to give something back to the community here. This is my modified Barnett Strike Nine. It's an 'everyman design' meaning I hope anyone - anywhere - can try it out.

Parts list:
Barnett Strike Nine - $9
8mm (internal dia.) steel collars - RS Stock No. 122-3450 - $4
6mm rubber end caps - eBay etc

1. Unscrew the grip and reverse the frame. This is very important because it means if the collars do let go they won't be coming back into your face.
2. Attach the bands of your choice using the collars and a hex key. The bands wrap back over the collars when drawn.
3. Shoot!

Shown fitted with 20-15mm taper 0.58mm GZK bandset. Thanks, Griffo.

 

[treefork]

Pocket Predator has them with a sighting groove .

 

[NSFC]

Cool good deal, there are some smart people out there and on this form, Im just glad i can be near some of you.

 

[MOJAVE MO]

Yup. Good mod!

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[Griffo]

Pocket Predator has them with a sighting groove .

There's not much that hasn't been thought of before!

The stainless steel collars I use are from RS Components who sell internationally. I found a shaft diameter of 8mm, external diameter of 16mm to be the best size. There are plenty of other sizes to try also. I'd still suggest reversing the frame as a failsafe however.

 

[schpier]

Please provide the sources from which one can obtain those components?

 

[Chadlee]

Nice. I bought mine from my local hardware store. I filed a slight groove in mine with a triangle file.

 

[Griffo]

Please provide the sources from which one can obtain those components?

https://www.rs-components.com/index.html

Pick your country and search for 122-3450

Not listed on the US website, oddly. But RS ship everywhere in the world.

 

[Ibojoe]

That was smart turning the forks around. Taking one of those to the face would be a big bummer. Smart thinking buddy!

 

[Griffo]

Thanks Ibojoe. Yep, safety first, because taking one in the gob* is going to hurt!

* mouth, british slang

 

[SLING-N-SHOT]

Please provide the sources from which one can obtain those components?

You can find pretty much anything like this and way more from McMaster Carr

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[wll]

I've learned a lot from reading this forum so I wanted to give something back to the community here. This is my modified Barnett Strike Nine. It's an 'everyman design' meaning I hope anyone - anywhere - can try it out.

Parts list:
Barnett Strike Nine - $9
8mm (internal dia.) steel collars - RS Stock No. 122-3450 - $4
6mm rubber end caps - eBay etc

1. Unscrew the grip and reverse the frame. This is very important because it means if the collars do let go they won't be coming back into your face.
2. Attach the bands of your choice using the collars and a hex key. The bands wrap back over the collars when drawn.
3. Shoot!

Shown fitted with 20-15mm taper 0.58mm GZK bandset. Thanks, Griffo.

Griffo,

I'm EXTREMELY proud of you, you have been here on this forum only a very, very short time but you are a shooter after my own heart. Even though I shoot mostly (by far) Daisy F-16's, your choice is a very good one because the forks can be turned around, .. very important to me.

I do the same thing with a looped tube configuration where if the rubber ties come loose or break the tubes will hit the fork and not me.The other thing is with forks turned around the handle still fits in the correct direction ... nice choice. I also buy the end caps from ebay so the finished sling looks more production like.

Again, as one wire slingshot shooter to another, I'm very proud of you. The performance you can get purchasing a wire frame far, far exceeds the cost.

Keep us posted on your wire sling adventures ;- )

wll

 

[Griffo]

Well, thanks mate.

Yes the reasons I like the Barnett S9 are the same as your reasons for liking the Daisy. It's an inexpensive but well made design which, with a little thought, can be improved.

I've read a good shot will shoot straight with any slingshot, which is a good leveller for us all. Doesn't matter if it's a store bought dollar special or something oiled on the inner thighs of virgins, all 'bout the shooter!

I want to make a BB shooter next, something to shoot indoors with lightweight ammo, so I'll be reading and learning more from this forum.

 

[Grandpa Grumpy]

Well, thanks mate.

Yes the reasons I like the Barnett S9 are the same as your reasons for liking the Daisy. It's an inexpensive but well made design which, with a little thought, can be improved.

I've read a good shot will shoot straight with any slingshot, which is a good leveller for us all. Doesn't matter if it's a store bought dollar special or something oiled on the inner thighs of virgins, all 'bout the shooter!

I want to make a BB shooter next, something to shoot indoors with lightweight ammo, so I'll be reading and learning more from this forum.

I agree. The Barnett Strike 9 is one of my favorite slingshots. I paid less than $5.00 for mine a few years ago. The forks are much lower than the Daisy and the hammer grip is very comfortable. Replace the stock tubes with flat bands and it is an excellent shooter.

 

[MOJAVE MO]

I had to come back to this thread because it has been bugging me for a few days. Meaning, fork forward to eliminate bashing the face with a slipped collar!
I just can't put the forks forward on my wire-frame modifications! It makes me crazy to look at it, and I am just sure the other kids are laughing at me! I just recently decided to try to collars because my fingers are getting tired from the effort to attach a flatband set. To find some happy ground I just added a little cut tube to the fork tip to act like an emergency brake if I find a collar on the loose! Now at the very least it should stop the nightmares of face-bashing myself!

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[Griffo]

Mo, have you tried pulling the bands back with the grub screws deliberately loosened? Obviously not in your usual shooting stance - to test if the cut pieces of tube work as intended. Hopefully it is a neat solution.

I get the sentiment about wanting an easier way to attach flat bands to wire frames when fingers aren't as dextrous as they once were.

 

[MOJAVE MO]

Mo, have you tried pulling the bands back with the grub screws deliberately loosened? Obviously not in your usual shooting stance - to test if the cut pieces of tube work as intended. Hopefully it is a neat solution.

I get the sentiment about wanting an easier way to attach flat bands to wire frames when fingers aren't as dextrous as they once were.

Geez. Why would I be that smart?! But that is a good point. I want to believe deep in my heart that if the grub screw was loose enough to move, then the flats would hopefully pull out. I would also hope that the little 'E-Brake' would allow me to feel the wiggle of a loose collar. Yea, there is a lot of hope going on over here!! I seriously never had to think this much when I was a kid!

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[Griffo]

Yeah, my risk averse nature could have the upper hand at the moment.

As we all know flinging lumps of metal past your face is in itself inherently risky. I'm maybe over-thinking it and you've clearly thought through the risk.

I'm off to wrestle a tiger to realign my risk to pleasure ratio.

 

[Grandpa Grumpy]

I never liked the look of the backwards forks. Plus I think the prongs facing the shooter helps with aiming. You can immediately tell when the fork is canted or pointed forward. They always said turning the forks around helped the band life because the bands would not hit the end of the prongs. I always shoot the Daisy type frames with the prongs facing me. The band life seems about the same as flat bands on other slingshots. I use the Chinese handcuff method to attach flat bands so all I have to worry about is a broken band slapping in the face.

 

[MOJAVE MO]

I never liked the look of the backwards forks. Plus I think the prongs facing the shooter helps with aiming. You can immediately tell when the fork is canted or pointed forward. They always said turning the forks around helped the band life because the bands would not hit the end of the prongs. I always shoot the Daisy type frames with the prongs facing me. The band life seems about the same as flat bands on other slingshots. I use the Chinese handcuff method to attach flat bands so all I have to worry about is a broken band slapping in the face.

Your band tying method has been my go-to since you demonstrated it. I need to study again and use the correct diameter tubes so I don't feel like I wrestling a greases up Salamander to get my bands installed!

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