Mold for Clay Balls
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why dont you just make a mold out of the clay then fire it?I wanted to make a mold for clay balls (about 15mm using pottery clay) , it takes time to make by hand & can't get perfect shape, pls post ideas to make a mold using simple household things...
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it would provide an opportunity to experiment with various sizes.
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I got a kilo of that thing .they are fun to shoot.
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You can't mould clay balls, or at least it's not practical. In industrial ceramics, you'd make a cast two part slip mould but then you'd get flash and it's hard to get them out intact.
In the fishing industry you'd use a radial boilie roller (grooved rollers), or a Rollapro, but I really doubt that's practical for you and you'll not likely find one the right size for slingshots. BTW, the radial boilie machines don't make perfectly shaped spheres because they are designed for speed not perfection.
Marbles are made on a polished helical roller with roller with gaps smaller than your ball. These are more accurate than radial rollers.
Ball bearings are made by cold-heading and then grinding under rill-plates.
I think the best way for you is to do it the traditional way where you make a consistently flat sheet of clay, score it into equal sized squares and hand roll them into shape. PS, if you have a cheap source of local labour, I am sure you can get all you need.
In the fishing industry you'd use a radial boilie roller (grooved rollers), or a Rollapro, but I really doubt that's practical for you and you'll not likely find one the right size for slingshots. BTW, the radial boilie machines don't make perfectly shaped spheres because they are designed for speed not perfection.
Marbles are made on a polished helical roller with roller with gaps smaller than your ball. These are more accurate than radial rollers.
Ball bearings are made by cold-heading and then grinding under rill-plates.
I think the best way for you is to do it the traditional way where you make a consistently flat sheet of clay, score it into equal sized squares and hand roll them into shape. PS, if you have a cheap source of local labour, I am sure you can get all you need.
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a vid from a great guy, and fine shooter.
He show how he make his clay balls
He show how he make his clay balls
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Thanks all
Paul - that is a good idea "melon scoop"
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Dan - I like your comment "cheaper labour" - so they'll get a pay - I'll get my ammo...
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Paul - that is a good idea "melon scoop"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGTTuPup2Lk&feature=related
Joseph - hey, very cool video - can you tell me how to Time Travel "go into a log & come out with a slingshot"
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Dan, Already got "Cheap source of local labour" - "MY WIFE"
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I think a boilie roller like the one shown here would be an ideal solution, although I doubt you'd be able to get one anywhere other than in the UK (where carp fishing is popular.) I've used them before to make baits myself and the process is pretty straight forward, if making clay ammunition I would simply omit the initial stage which involves using a 'boilie gun' and roll the clay into a long cylindrical shape by hand, then place it on the roller and roll away! It would definitely be considerably faster and easier than making them all by hand!
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Well heres the deal! I have no natural clay in the ares where I live and I can buy Marbles or steel balls cheaper per pound than I can buy clay in bulk. Clay would make great wing shooting ammo, but why would I want to spend the time to make clay balls when I can buy marbles ready to shoot cheaper. Larger malbles make great wing shooting ammo also as they don't fly as far as steel so you don't need as great of a distance down range. -- Tex
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Really nice video!!! Great shooting and peaceful!!! I hope everyone watched it all!!! It really takes quite a bit to put together a video such as this. Much Respect!!!!
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I bought a block of clay at Michaels for about 6 dollars. they run ads for 40% off all the time so it would be much less. The block is 10lbs. I estimate it will yield about 2000 44 cal. balls give or take. It might be more than that. It is very simple and you just let them dry over night. They shoot very well. If you do the math it is around 3 cents each. With the discount it is much less than that. a little more than a cent each. I think the carp bait machine is the ticket.
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Here are two links for shooters in the USA for cheap marbles and steel shot (under 2 dollars a pound shipped). They might not even be the cheapest. - Tex
http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/ItemsList.aspx?ProductID=125220055&in=5/8"yellowopalshinymarble."1price"isperpound,"30price"isfor30-lbwithfreeairshipping.
http://www.royalsteelballusa.com/
http://www.mcgillswarehouse.com/ItemsList.aspx?ProductID=125220055&in=5/8"yellowopalshinymarble."1price"isperpound,"30price"isfor30-lbwithfreeairshipping.
http://www.royalsteelballusa.com/
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i would say use the kiln, the only thing is you have to makesure the balls dont have any air pockets or they will explode during the process
issedoff:
issedoff:usaslingshot is right if there are air pockets, the balls will pop like popcorn. when I heat mine to dry I just put them on my BBQ that has a lid and let them in there for only about 5 min at 400deg. this is just a way to dry them out faster. I have done both ways (air dry , heat dry) and not much difference in shooting them. I think I will try the small melon scoop to see if it works for shaping them to a more uniform size.
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It's been a while since I did any ceramics and never in this oven as far as I can remember.
From what I can remember, I think the popcorn effect was probably more to do with residual moisture boiling rapidly than air pockets, but I could be wrong.
Edit: Links...
http://www.skutt.com/resources/school_faq.html
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Pottery-2316/2009/8/Once-firing-kids-pieces.htm
From what I can remember, I think the popcorn effect was probably more to do with residual moisture boiling rapidly than air pockets, but I could be wrong.
Edit: Links...
http://www.skutt.com/resources/school_faq.html
http://en.allexperts.com/q/Pottery-2316/2009/8/Once-firing-kids-pieces.htm
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im no pro. you are probably right... in school we have to let the clay dry for a weekend, then we heat it in a semi high heat then heat again in a rlly high heat. you will have to look the specifics up but thats when i know from school
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hey thanks guys for your advice. I am going to let them air dry for a few days and heat them to see if there is any difference. thanks to the usaslingshot guys, it is nice to hear someone who is in school and the information they learn is still very fresh to them, not like myself who has been out of school for many many years. You two continue to keep up the work of paying attention in school it does pay off.
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