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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my TFF Taurus from pocket predator yesterday. Im really liking the frame. Thanks for all the suggestions from forum members! This is only my second frame I've owned. I got home yesterday evening and banded it up and couldn't resist a few shots even though it was basically dark. I could tell they were high, which I expected based on narrower fork width. it was too dark for better analysis.

Today I put some cardboard up with an aiming cross and shot a 15 round group from 33ft. I tried to keep everything consistent with the way I move been shooting. It's banded very close to the same as my scout LT with about a 7" active length at a 31" draw. I'm shooting corner of the mouth anchor point

Grouping was good for me. About 2"x 1" excluding flyers. It centered 6.5" above my point of aim. There are 11 shots in the circle.

e3721f75e5564a0bd0a3dade92416e2c.jpg


The scout forks outer edge dimensions are 1/2" wider than the Taurus.
d09b86789c91d7f5342b6c7a2a511bd0.jpg


With my scout my point of impact is about 1.5" above point of aim at 33ft. So that 1/2" difference in the forks translates to 4" poi shift at 11yds. I expected a shift but maybe not so drastic. I guess that's high school geometry coming back to haunt me.

Now I know I need to raise my anchor point to lower the Poi. I just hate to do it. I've used corner of the mouth with bow for years and I'm very comfortable with that. I guess it's time to get out of my comfort zone. I'm thinking of experimenting with the ear walk anchor I've read about on here.

The problem I'm seeing is it's hard to center my eye over the band when I use other anchor points. Especially as far back as the ear. It just feels really awkward. I considered just going to semi butterfly but that seems like a big switch.

I should probably just pick one technique and practice. But I figured I would call upon the collective wisdom of the forum.

Any suggestions on the next step in this progression or tips on anchor points would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Scrat

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You could use a different point on the slingshot as a front aiming point to adjust to your new poi as well. Just my $0.02 :)
 
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I messed around with this problem for a month or so. I eventually decided that I liked being dead on at 11 yards aiming off the tip of the top fork. For my shooting style that happens with a 4 inch outside fork width. Rather than change my style to match the slingshot, I gave away my slingshots that were not the 4 inch outside fork width and started carving naturals, you guessed it, all with a 4 inch fork width. Now I have a nice little collection of frames I can pick up at random and shoot without worrying about point of impact or anchor. Just my 2 cents. I like to keep things simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to try out all of these out. Starting with some 7/16 to see where that hits.

I lucked out on the scout that my poi was more less right on from the get go when I set the target right in the aiming notch. I'm sure I will learn a lot from messing around with this setup.

Msturm, I suspect I'll end up going taking that route. Seems like a practical approach. Mojave Mo suggested on another thread to get a second scout for consistency between different band setups. Solid advice

Eventually I hope to do some building and I'll tailor the fork width. But the mean time I'll see if I can get dialed in on the new frame with some of these suggestions.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got a couple hundred shots in today trying different things as suggested. I think for now I will focus on practicing a new point of aim and keep the rest consistent. I thought it would be hard having a point of aim so far above my fork. Most of my marksmanship experience is with iron sights so I like to have tangible points that line up with my point of impact at a known distance. However, even a few dozen shots I could see improvement on the small spinners.

I Just have to accept that this is a different animal and put in the practice time.

I think not being tied to a single reference point and strengthening the skill of being able to accurately judge hold off based on range will be the most beneficial across multiple frames and Ammo weights. since I plan to shoot target with light setups and hunt with heavier setups, I'll inevitably have to adjust to point of impact shifts anyway.

After looking at this post I see that lots of folks have significant hold off depending on range.

https://www.slingshotcommunity.com/threads/sight-picture-ott-ttf-thread.5551//

Anyway, lots of good learning today. Thanks for helping me think through it and for great suggestions.

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I messed around with this problem for a month or so. I eventually decided that I liked being dead on at 11 yards aiming off the tip of the top fork. For my shooting style that happens with a 4 inch outside fork width. Rather than change my style to match the slingshot, I gave away my slingshots that were not the 4 inch outside fork width and started carving naturals, you guessed it, all with a 4 inch fork width. Now I have a nice little collection of frames I can pick up at random and shoot without worrying about point of impact or anchor. Just my 2 cents. I like to keep things simple.
MSTURM.....as a newbie I understand this comment.....is there any method to figure what outside fork width suits an individual???
I'm using a Hatchcock sniper small.....
 
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