I will not give you a suggestion, rather tell you what I would do in this case: I would leave the width of the prongs as they are and only do some sanding to make them as round as possible; then I would make rounded tops, sorry my English is not enough here so I will put a picture (front and above view) and it should look SOMETHING as this (my drawing is not much better either..):
Then I would work on the point inside the prongs where they meed in the middle (bottom of the letter U) and make a nice round curve there.
Then I would work on the points where the outer line of the prongs start to meet the straight line of the handle: I would make this go deeper inside to get a more pronounced curve.
Other things I can not tell because I would need to take the form in my hand and examine.
One thing more: it seems that you barked the fork and you say "it is drying" - if it is not dry by now, before barking, it might crack. If that happens, no big deal, you can always use glue, epoxy etc to fill it or - as I often do - leave the crack if it does not compromise structural integrity of the fork and in the same time adds to the beauty..
Cheers Jazz, youve given me some food for thought. Yes, I cut the fork live, it looked too good to leave and its already got a couple of small cracks but nothing to compromise its strength.
I'm considering drilling down both forks about 1.5" and then at drill at right angles so I can fit tubes coming directly out of the top, using ball bearings as stoppers.
Im a total newb at this so could be talking out of my ass but hey ho.
Eat the banana.... As far as the fork goes. If it is newly cut I would suggest that you cover the end grain with a coating of glue, wax, or some kind of paint or varnish.. This will let the wood dry out slowly and avoid cracks.
By the way...I just learned that it is considered bad luck to bring a banana on board a boat.......so, if you are on a boat I guess you are screwed.
"I'm considering drilling down both forks about 1.5" and then at drill at right angles so I can fit tubes coming directly out of the top, using ball bearings as stoppers."
I've done that and it works okay. You should drill the side holes at an upward angle to the vertical hole. You also need a cover tube like on a PFS. If the fork is matching front to back, you can grab it from both sides.
I don't think there is a name for it. If there is I never knew it. I had acquired a vintage shooter kind of like a Whammo. The forks were drilled from the bottom, fitted with plastic sleeves(I figure as they were gone and the holes looked rough. I thought that around to that set up. I sent it on to Flatband for his vintage collection.