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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple of weeks ago I made slingshots for my young kids Check them out here if you want . I was looking for something out of which to make pouches and stumbled across a Target re-usable grocery bag. The handles are made of a nylon that is reinforced on top and bottom (laterally) and is the same width as a slingshot pouch. So I cut one about two inches longer than regular pouch length, folded over an inch on each side and glued it down with super glue and burned a hole on each side with a soldering iron. Ta-Da! Two simple, free plinker pouches. They shoot 1/4" steel ok and are fine for the kids to shoot air-softs with.
That got me to thinking if they could be made to work with a regular slingshot and bigger ammo. Tonight I made a pouch for one of my slings. Instead of folding over the ends of one strip I went ahead and glued two strips together at full length. I figured that bigger ammo would need more support. I ended up with this:


The feel is a little different, maybe not as "sensitive" as regular leather but so far is just as accurate. I've put about 20 shots through it so far, so nothing is for sure yet. This is a smaller slingshot using #33 bands chained 4-3-3 and shooting 3/8" steel. Next one I make I might not glue all the way accross the top and bottom as it makes it kinda stiff.
Before anyone says anything, I know a good leather pouch is superior and you can buy top quality ones right here on this very site for just a little bit of money. I know. This is mostly for me but also for people who like to experiment and try things out. I'll keep posting as I shoot this set-up more. Unless no one really cares, then I'll not.
 

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I like it. I've made nylon pouches that I consider to be superior to leather. I prefer nylon mesh to webbing or fabric. My reasoning is mesh is lightweight, strong and has good feel, better than th alternatives. It is cheaper to buy but requires more work if stitched, which is the reason I use leather in my bands.

For the tie holes, I prefer stitched loops to holes, but melted holes are better than punched. Woven could be good too.
 

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I like it. I've made nylon pouches that I consider to be superior to leather. I prefer nylon mesh to webbing or fabric. My reasoning is mesh is lightweight, strong and has good feel, better than th alternatives. It is cheaper to buy but requires more work if stitched, which is the reason I use leather in my bands.

For the tie holes, I prefer stitched loops to holes, but melted holes are better than punched. Woven could be good too.
A photo of you nylon mesh design would be appreciated.

Also, what exactly should we shop for, and where is the material available?
 

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If you are going to use nylon try and find some Ballistic Nylon it was made for flack jackets and they use it for skins on canoes tuff stuf. It is the same thing they are using in luggage.
 

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use cloth or nylon type materials with caution due to return fire. And never ever use anything other than round ammo in a too soft or flexible pouch. A blow back can be devistating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
use cloth or nylon type materials with caution due to return fire. And never ever use anything other than round ammo in a too soft or flexible pouch. A blow back can be devistating.
For sure! The setup I made is actually pretty stiff since it's two layers. The reason I even started this was because I made a few pouches out of biker jacket leather and it was too soft. It would shoot 1/4" ok but flinged 3/8 everywhere. The nylon does much better.
 

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I like it. I've made nylon pouches that I consider to be superior to leather. I prefer nylon mesh to webbing or fabric. My reasoning is mesh is lightweight, strong and has good feel, better than th alternatives. It is cheaper to buy but requires more work if stitched, which is the reason I use leather in my bands.

For the tie holes, I prefer stitched loops to holes, but melted holes are better than punched. Woven could be good too.
A photo of you nylon mesh design would be appreciated.

Also, what exactly should we shop for, and where is the material available?
[/quote]



http://slingshotforum.com/blog/11/entry-201-pouch-designs/
 

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use cloth or nylon type materials with caution due to return fire. And never ever use anything other than round ammo in a too soft or flexible pouch. A blow back can be devistating.
For sure! The setup I made is actually pretty stiff since it's two layers. The reason I even started this was because I made a few pouches out of biker jacket leather and it was too soft. It would shoot 1/4" ok but flinged 3/8 everywhere. The nylon does much better.
[/quote]

True there are different quality of leathers out there. I have been for some time making leather pouhes from fine European leather road racing jacket and it is most durable many thousands of shots later and still good to go. anothere word of caution is to resist the thought of shooting hex head nuts they can come back on you. Your pouch looks good and if just might be one of those forever pouches. If it is not too long it may never give a friendly fire.
 

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Return to sender accidents are only partly caused by cupped pouches. All the examples of RTS accidents also involve wide forks, through the fork design and heavy projectiles.

Admittedly, I use skinny leather pouches almost exclusively, but I wouldn't write off stretchable or cupped pouches out of hand.
 

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I got some "return to senders" (ha ha!) with a cupped pouch made by Flatband, and I was using one of his ergos, which I don't think has too wide a gap. Scary!
 
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