Oh God, I just wanna sling a 8-10mm clay ball as hard as possible!

3444 Views 21 Replies 9 Participants Last post by Reed Lukens, Oct 31, 2020

GregG

Discussion Starter · Oct 29, 2020

Hello folks,

Like I had mentioned in my introduction last night (raw newbie here) I've got some ***** that tear up my yard nightly and I want to dissuade them (not kill or maim them) from doing this by hurting them as much as possible. (lol) For this reason I've decided to use clay balls (also because I don't want a bunch of steel all over my lawn) however they obviously don't hit as hard so I'm looking to utilize/squeeze as much hitting power that I can (over a typical range of about 20 to 30 yards) out of my rig.

I have a Flymars sling shot rifle (https://www.slingshotmarksman.com/store/product/flymars-fishing-hunting-slingshot-rifle ) with a draw of about 28 inches. Trying to sort through the different ratios, width, lengths, thickness relative to weight of ball etc etc ETC is totally overwhelming! :wacko: Anyways willing to learn that's why I'm here. :bowdown: So question. (one of a gazillion to come I'm sure) I have absolutely NO experience with flat bands but I'm getting the impression that the heavier the ball the thinner should be the band? :question:

Since my draw is 28 inches and my clay balls are 8.5mm (on average) and 1.5 grams (on average) what band (length, size, brand, thickness etc, etc ETC LOL) would be the best to maximize hitting power over an average of 25 yards with 8-10mm clay balls?

Whew!

Thanks!

Greg

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Tree Man

· #2 · Oct 29, 2020

I'm not really the guy to talk to about band length etc, but that sling rifle is cool AH!

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StringSlap

· #3 · Oct 29, 2020

You can dive as deeply into things as you want, but generally speaking speed, power and accuracy are really not the forte' of clay balls. No matter how good they are, there are variations in size, weight, roundness, weight distribution, etc. Try to push clay too hard, or extend their range and they will get wonky on you. In your situation I would try something in the range of .5 - .6 thickness, 6" active length. For cuts try 1/2-5/8 taper, 1/2 straight, 5/8 straight. If you can hit a paper plate at 25 yards with one of those setups, then that should be all the accuracy you need. Just hold center mass. Remember though, clay is light and power drops off quickly as the distance increases. At 25 yards I think it would scare them off, but might not keep them away. I personally would try those setups with 5/16 steel. If you can hit a can at 25 yards then you can safely hit them in the flank and sting them pretty good, with little chance of doing any real damage. Plus steel rusts and returns to nature and they would most likely not be an issue for a lawn mower.

FWIW have you considered using a slingshot to address your issues? You could probably get off 2-3 shots in the time it takes to reload a slingshot rifle. Plus you can keep your eyes on the critters while readying the next shot.

Just my opinion and you'll probably get some good advice from others.

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Grandpa Grumpy

· #4 · Oct 29, 2020

A hand held slingshot might be better. As Stringslap mentioned you can get more shots off faster and remember any time you hold the bands in the drawn position (as a sling rifle does) for any length of time you lose power.

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blindshooter

· #5 · Oct 29, 2020

Mowers don't pick up steel, and if you soak those 5/16 balls in vinegar for few hours, the chrome will disintegrate and the balls rust away much quicker.

Clay will not even get the ***** attention. Far to light.

Let us know what you decide and how it all works out for you.

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GregG

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 29, 2020

See ... this is what I'm talking about! This forum is gold! :bowdown: Thanks guys. :thumbsup:

Reactions: 5

Konrad

· #7 · Oct 30, 2020 (Edited by Moderator)

Mate,

A lot of those steps are for when you want to maintain the rifle if we have a shutdown,

Here are a bunch of video's from pyramid air.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL74FF159FF533DDFF

The scope I got was dead on arrival.

If there is any slop in the weaver rail use the shim.

1) mount your scope make sure it is level.

2) Zero in you scope at a given range with your choice of ammo. Stick to one type because it changes all the calibrations of the scope (Start at 10 yards and work you way back a couple of yards at a time.).

3) If you want to shoot past 12-14 yards Use G100 grade steel balls as the ammo will swing.

Sounds simple but even a air rifle is a hassle. Most springer air rifles are only accurate out to 20 yards.

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flipgun

· #8 · Oct 30, 2020

Go to marbles. '***** are tougher than ten cent a pound chuck steak.

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GregG

Discussion Starter · #9 · Oct 30, 2020

StringSlap said:
For cuts try 1/2-5/8 taper, 1/2 straight, 5/8 straight.

Hey String Slap, as I've mentioned I'm new so forgive what might seem like a stupid question but what does 1/2-5/8 taper mean exactly? The band tapering from 1/2 inch to 5/8's inch?

Thanks!

Greg

Reactions: 3

GregG

Discussion Starter · #10 · Oct 30, 2020

flipgun said:
Go to marbles. '***** are tougher than ten cent a pound chuck steak.

As in regular glass/toy marbles? Incidentally someone mentioned that Gobstopper/jawbreaker candy make good ammo an alternative to clay. Anyone heard of this? lol!

Reactions: 3

cavedweller

· #11 · Oct 30, 2020 (Edited by Moderator)

The thing I've found with marbles is that it takes a pretty big pouch and some pretty wide forks to make it work. My "Marble Cannon" is big and uses something like 5070 tube and is useless at flinging anything but marbles. But it flings marbles really well. You could get something like a cheap fishing bait slingshot and put tubes with a pouch on it for marbles.

Also marbles don't hit as hard as steel so pecking a **** at yard distance isn't going to harm them. But then your yard would have a bunch of marbles in it which may or not hurt anything.

Gobstoppers might work instead of marbles and they'd melt away in the rain.

Personally if I wanted something to deter ***** I'd probably go for a decent BB gun. They're tough buggers so it wouldn't really harm them. But they're also determined buggers so they'd most likely just be back the next night anyway.

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StringSlap

· #12 · Oct 30, 2020

GregG said:
StringSlap said:

For cuts try 1/2-5/8 taper, 1/2 straight, 5/8 straight.

Click to expand...

Hey String Slap, as I've mentioned I'm new so forgive what might seem like a stupid question but what does 1/2-5/8 taper mean exactly? The band tapering from 1/2 inch to 5/8's inch?

Thanks!

Greg

Exactly. I cut my elastic to a working length of 7". Then measure in 1/2" from one edge, then 5/8" from the other end. Connect the dots with a good, solid straight edge and use a roller cutter to cut the band. Then mark in reverse (cut 5/8" from the previous 1/2" end and 1/2" from the previous 5/8" end) and cut another one. This will leave you with a straight edge on the sheet to mark and cut more bands from. I measure in 1" from the narrow end. This gives me plenty of room to tie the pouch on. I measure 3/4" from the wide end and that's what I use to attach the bands to the frame. This gives me a 5 1/4" active length for my 30" draw.

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blindshooter

· #13 · Oct 30, 2020

Yes to 'toy"glass marbles or murder marbles as some call them. They are quite dense and will kill rabbits and squirrels within reasonable range. Usually 20 yards.

Gobstoppers are also very effective and less lethal, not as heavy as lead, steel or glass. They fly straight out to about 15 - 20 yards. If you have access to these, use them.

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GregG

Discussion Starter · #14 · Oct 30, 2020

blindshooter said:
Yes to 'toy"glass marbles or murder marbles as some call them. They are quite dense and will kill rabbits and squirrels within reasonable range. Usually 20 yards.

Gobstoppers are also very effective and less lethal, not as heavy as lead, steel or glass. They fly straight out to about 15 - 20 yards. If you have access to these, use them.

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Know what the weight of Gobstoppers? Good thing about these is that what i don't use i can eat! lol

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GregG

Discussion Starter · #15 · Oct 30, 2020

StringSlap said:
GregG said:

StringSlap said:

For cuts try 1/2-5/8 taper, 1/2 straight, 5/8 straight.

Click to expand...

Hey String Slap, as I've mentioned I'm new so forgive what might seem like a stupid question but what does 1/2-5/8 taper mean exactly? The band tapering from 1/2 inch to 5/8's inch?

Thanks!

Greg

Click to expand...

Exactly. I cut my elastic to a working length of 7". Then measure in 1/2" from one edge, then 5/8" from the other end. Connect the dots with a good, solid straight edge and use a roller cutter to cut the band. Then mark in reverse (cut 5/8" from the previous 1/2" end and 1/2" from the previous 5/8" end) and cut another one. This will leave you with a straight edge on the sheet to mark and cut more bands from. I measure in 1" from the narrow end. This gives me plenty of room to tie the pouch on. I measure 3/4" from the wide end and that's what I use to attach the bands to the frame. This gives me a 5 1/4" active length for my 30" draw.

Thanks for the clarification, String!

Reactions: 2

flipgun

· #16 · Oct 30, 2020

About Gobstoppers... shooting food at *****?

Reactions: 3

StringSlap

· #17 · Oct 30, 2020

You're welcome. And just as an FYI... 5/8 marbles weight almost exactly the same as 7/16 steel. Both are highly effective for hunting.

Reactions: 2

StringSlap

· #18 · Oct 30, 2020

flipgun said:
About Gobstoppers... shooting food at *****?

Haha! Grub Hub for critters! Shrub Grub?

Reactions: 2

blindshooter

· #19 · Oct 30, 2020

flipgun said:
About Gobstoppers... shooting food at *****?

Are they really food? Nothing eats them where I live except foolish humans. And yes I have eaten them.

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GregG

Discussion Starter · #20 · Oct 30, 2020

flipgun said:
About Gobstoppers... shooting food at *****?

Ha! That's really my secret deterrent. :shhh: See ... it's a two pronged approach ... hit em hard with the "food" and those that don't run away will try to eat them ... break their teeth and die of starvation! :banana:

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