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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Im running 2040 7" straights with TTB protectors & standard SS top grain pouch on my OPFS. Im getting slapped stupid on my index & middle finger. Had some SSB 3/4" straight cuts at 7.5" and some amer latex @ same dimensions. Had very little, after that, so going with that for now.

Thoughts on PFS/OPFS with tubes/flats?

Whats your set up or preferance? :)
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Ray Rowden
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Sounds like your 2040s have more energy than it takes to whip your current ammo downrange.

Without changing the tubes, you could shorten your draw, thus storing less energy in the tubeset. Or, you could switch to heavier ammo, spending more of the stored energy on accelerating the ammo.

For future setups with 2040s and your current ammo, you might add an inch or so to the band length. That should lower the overall energy potential at the same draw length.

I use both flats and tubes on pickle forks. With tubes, I always use leather tabs at the forks. 1632s cut to 10 inches of active length and drawn to about 58 inches work for 5/16, 3/8 and marbles for me. I get wicket slap with 1/4 inch and smaller ammo though. I need about 12 inches of active length to shoot 1/4 inch or .177s with the 1632. 2040s cut to 12 inches and drawn to 58 inches work with marbles, 1/2 steel and .44 cal. lead. I can move the lead a little faster if I cut the tubes down to 11 inches, but I get hand slap with everything else if I do.
 

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Its crazy with PFS or over the top, all the energy must be used at release. I notice with hex nuts, if you get a hand slap you can go one nut bigger or interestingly enough..... You can just fill the hex but with something that brings the weight up a tiny bit, like hot glue, epoxy, clay, you get the idea. And walla hand slap solved. you can also try tweaking pouch weight. Think about how fast you can pust a plastic bb that weights hardly nothing. Imagine that hitting your hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like your 2040s have more energy than it takes to whip your current ammo downrange.
Without changing the tubes, you could shorten your draw, thus storing less energy in the tubeset. Or, you could switch to heavier ammo, spending more of the stored energy on accelerating the ammo.
For future setups with 2040s and your current ammo, you might add an inch or so to the band length. That should lower the overall energy potential at the same draw length.
I use both flats and tubes on pickle forks. With tubes, I always use leather tabs at the forks. 1632s cut to 10 inches of active length and drawn to about 58 inches work for 5/16, 3/8 and marbles for me. I get wicket slap with 1/4 inch and smaller ammo though. I need about 12 inches of active length to shoot 1/4 inch or .177s with the 1632. 2040s cut to 12 inches and drawn to 58 inches work with marbles, 1/2 steel and .44 cal. lead. I can move the lead a little faster if I cut the tubes down to 11 inches, but I get hand slap with everything else if I do.
Thanks for the tips and information! :)

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Its crazy with PFS or over the top, all the energy must be used at release. I notice with hex nuts, if you get a hand slap you can go one nut bigger or interestingly enough..... You can just fill the hex but with something that brings the weight up a tiny bit, like hot glue, epoxy, clay, you get the idea. And walla hand slap solved. you can also try tweaking pouch weight. Think about how fast you can pust a plastic bb that weights hardly nothing. Imagine that hitting your hand.
Yes that's true with me too, I've noticed that the PFS can be extremely ammo picky LOL.

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Thank you for posting BushpotChef...and oh lawdie thanks Kawkan & Forkless & Tag for answering. I almost always use flatbands now, but especially on my pfs's...because I tried some bands with tube protectors because "hey, you see Joey shoot?"... I beat my hands senseless... then the pain...and because I am a little tiny biy stubborn, then came the bleeding.

Light weight flat bands since then.

I love it when I learn something on here.
Making some new stuff and will post by Saturday (I hope). Made holes for tubes or tabs. Gonna have to get some light tubes like asap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you for posting BushpotChef...and oh lawdie thanks Kawkan & Forkless & Tag for answering. I almost always use flatbands now, but especially on my pfs's...because I tried some bands with tube protectors because "hey, you see Joey shoot?"... I beat my hands senseless... then the pain...and because I am a little tiny biy stubborn, then came the bleeding.

Light weight flat bands since then.

I love it when I learn something on here.
Making some new stuff and will post by Saturday (I hope). Made holes for tubes or tabs. Gonna have to get some light tubes like asap.
Thanks Pat! Glad you could learn something from what I posted and what others had to share. I too am using flatbands for my PFS primarily, and tried tubes for the same reason you listed LOL. I'm sure I'll go back to tubes at some point, but for now it's flatbands for me!

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Prince of Paraprosdokians and Epistemophilia
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Im running 2040 7" straights with TTB protectors & standard SS top grain pouch on my OPFS. Im getting slapped stupid on my index & middle finger. Had some SSB 3/4" straight cuts at 7.5" and some amer latex @ same dimensions. Had very little, after that, so going with that for now.

Thoughts on PFS/OPFS with tubes/flats?

Whats your set up or preferance? :)
92e6883bfa0102e7081a21d2a5b72c79.jpg


Sent using two thumbs and Tapatalk.
Tried to send to you a PM, but I got the response that you can't receive any new messages.

Have you been a bad boy?
 
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