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SLING-N-SHOT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working on this chunky girl this morning, that my wife has already claimed, lol.
( told her it would cost her a new spindle sander, and got the look....)

This is a White Oak fork that had several little knotty protrusions that I rasped flat, then cleaned up with some knife work. I also shaped her waist a little more narrow so my wife could actually shoot it if she so chooses to.

I cannot decide if I want a couple of coats of Devils Snot as MO so eloquently refers to it ( CA ) to keep the bark in place, or just several coats of spray on semi-gloss Poly ?

What would the masses do ?

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SLING-N-SHOT
Joined
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The proper way to go at this is :: " honey I'm building you this beautiful natural because of the nice sander you bought me " LoL
Nice one buddy!!
LOL Joe, I get it, better to ask for
fork-giveness, than permission, haha

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SLING-N-SHOT
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Why would you want a spindle sander when you're turning out work like this?
Tks Chris, but this one was pretty much Mother Nature, with a little assist from me.....and I would like to delve into some Aluminum core laminates eventually, but my heart will always be with natural forks.

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Nice one, Darrell! I would go for the less shiny option. I think too much gloss would detract from the natural beauty. I just finished a project where I distressed/antiqued a couple of 2x8 pine boards and I finished them with Minwax One Coat Clear Satin poly. I like the look of it and will finish my next natty with it. Whatever you do will be awesome!
 

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The combination of sections with bark and others without really does look very nice.

I just wonder whether the bark might peel off by itself at a later stage, unless of course the substance applied can stop that from happening?

After making a few naturals (yes, it's addictive), I also realized that the bark of deadwood can hide some interesting surprises, such as wood rot, cracks, or fancy wood worm holes (photos of beech wood) - not too great in terms of structural strength in view of the intended purpose.

What product do you use to stabilize the wood bark permanently?

I would have a preference for removing the bark entirely if I am dealing with deadwood. A natural fork harvested from a freshly cut tree is a different ballgame, because it is subsequently left to dry in a controlled environment (or speed dried in the microwave oven) - so the bark on that one can stay on without any concerns (I assume).
 

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SLING-N-SHOT
Joined
6,205 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The combination of sections with bark and others without really does look very nice.

I just wonder whether the bark might peel off by itself at a later stage, unless of course the substance applied can stop that from happening?

After making a few naturals (yes, it's addictive), I also realized that the bark of deadwood can hide some interesting surprises, such as wood rot, cracks, or fancy wood worm holes (photos of beech wood) - not too great in terms of structural strength in view of the intended purpose.

What product do you use to stabilize the wood bark permanently?

I would have a preference for removing the bark entirely if I am dealing with deadwood. A natural fork harvested from a freshly cut tree is a different ballgame, because it is subsequently left to dry in a controlled environment (or speed dried in the microwave oven) - so the bark on that one can stay on without any concerns (I assume).
Pebble Shooter, this wood was very dry but not rotten at all....very strong.
I've put one coat of CA glue so far, which really soaks in, so hoping that bonds the bark to the inner core.

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