[Sean Khan]

No... not the singer dude.

This one here. I cut it out of a plank using a template cut in card-stock.

This is going to take time because I'm not good with wood. So I'll try and take it slow and easy with the rasps and files.

This one can be found in the template section. "Pitbull" by BC Slinger,

https://slingshotforum.com/files/file/94-pitbull-template/

Never shot TTF before unless old style wrist-rockets count. Just want to see what a regular TTF feels like. Will probably be more accurate for me at least.

Work in progress.

 

[Tag]

Looks really good to me

 

[SJAaz]

nice job so far. Good luck.

 

[Sean Khan]

Pray it don't break on me......

 

[Island made]

Looks good thus far! I'm no wood expert and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong...but that looks like pine or spruce to me. Which is fine in a "natty" but as a board just be careful and leave the forks lots thick as well as test it.

Keep us posted on your progress! And we like lots of pics!

 

[Palmettoflyer]

Looks good thus far! I'm no wood expert and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong...but that looks like pine or spruce to me. Which is fine in a "natty" but as a board just be careful and leave the forks lots thick as well as test it.

Keep us posted on your progress! And we like lots of pics!

I agree that you may be living on the edge here. However, if you keep the bands light for 6 or 8 mm ammo, it will probably be ok. Do not power up and shoot heavy ammo.

 

[StringSlap]

Yeah I'm with IM and Palmettoflyer. That grain is better suited for OTT. I'd be turning my head away each time I drew that one back! Perhaps being a bit over cautious, but better safe than sorry.

 

[Samurai Samoht]

Like the guys already said, be careful with that one. The grain is not in your favour for a TTF frame. Good quality plywood would be a more ideal material for you to start on. Perhaps consider using the wood you have as a template for the next one.

 

[Sean Khan]

Yes, you're all correct. I have less than 100% faith in the strength of this wood... whatever wood that is.

I made a GS-12 out of this same wood... that works great but this design is a lot more elaborate.

https://slingshotforum.com/topic/122794-first-time-working-in-wood/

I shall indeed have to be extra careful.

 

[Sean Khan]

Just looked up something from my files.... an old book on how to make your own crossbows.

Guy sez all crossbow prongs (the bendy part) should be expected to fail at some point, even if they are made of steel. So that it doesn't fly into your face, you wrap the bendy part in duct tape or something.

Even those guys who make PVC bows, recommend wrapping the bow. It's a safety feature.

Now how the %&$* am I supposed to do THAT here without making it look fugly ..... :iono:

But I shall carry on nevertheless.

 

[Sean Khan]

Used a rasp and a file to bring it closer to the red line.

But I am not good at this and despite trying not to ....

Idea.... to minimize this flaking from the edge, should I oil it now before I file again? I don't think there would be any harm in that. Would it even make any difference?

Or I can give it a coat of school glue.. or better.. wood glue....?

I went at it for like an hour and it still looks like it came out of someone's bum. Am I doing something wrong or I just need more patience with wood? Sandpaper will make the edges smoother, of course.

At what stage do I start with the sandpaper? I do need a bit more filing, yes?

Fun fact... I just realized... making a single shot "pen pistol" is a lot easier than making a slingshot out of wood.

Imagine that.

 

[NSFC]

Use a fine grit file, then aggressive sandpaper. Pay attention what direction your sanding/filing. If its chipping try going at it with the finer file at an angle. Let me know if this helps. Or what you figure out what works.

 

[SJAaz]

Don't file in the direction that will cause the outside layer to pull off. In other words, file from the outside in. those pieces that broke out can be glued back in. When you get them in place and glued and clamped, be sure to clean up the "squeeze out" otherwise it will soak in and harden and you will be able to see it through your finished flipper Hope this helps....Keep us posted..

 

[Sean Khan]

That chipping was caused by a rasp and my lack of patience ...I was going back and forth but carefully and slowly... which was the wrong thing to do it seems.

I switched to a fine file later after I removed much material.

I'll sand away that chipped area to make it even.

those pieces that broke out can be glued back in.

I am sure they can be.... if I still had them. :sorry:

Oh wait... just came to me. Superglue plus sawdust. Use as filler.

What my daddy and granddaddy never did, I will have to do..... is that dumb? Or smart?

Oh and should I get this??? Please let me know.

https://www.daraz.pk/products/maries-linseed-oil-painting-medium-75ml-i116702284-s1268834906.html?spm=a2a0e.searchlist.list.5.fe7b5e599rHmWB&search=1

It doesn't say "boiled" linseed oil but it does say it has been "dehydrated and depickled".. I assume that's the same as "boiled"?

And after the linseed oil has soaked and dried into the wood fibers, can I spray on lacquer? Is that what people do?

 

[NSFC]

Im glad you got the chipping figured out. keep me posted with your progress.

I dont use linseed oil, I just stain and varnish, with ultra fine sanding between coats. I usually do 3 coats of polyurethane. Letting it fully dry between coats.

 

[Sean Khan]

Thanks.

The only reason for me to use linseed oil is because it might marginally strengthen this weak wood I am using. It is not something I have ever used before. I usually use coconut oil... it's our lube of choice since 5,000 years for.... oh dear... too much info???

 

[StringSlap]

Don't forget good ol' shellac. One of the best sealing/protecting finishes. Dries quickly and easy to work with. You can get amber tinted also and that sometimes gives a nice look to the finish. What I like to do whenever possible is save the off cuts from my project and put different finishes on to see how it looks before committing to the actual piece.

 

[Sean Khan]

I have heard of shellac... never seen it nor used it.

But honestly I am not all that interested in a beautiful finish. I'll most likely end up painting it all black anyway. I like all things black.

What I am interested in is increasing the strength of this wood .. even if marginally.... without using a vacuum chamber and epoxy.

When we play cricket, the bats are treated with some oil (could be linseed or could be the favorite/cheapest goto oil around here ... sesame seed oil) or they would shatter with the repeated hits of the very hard cricket ball.

So I know oiling gives wood strength. Which oil? THAT I don't know.

My plan is to coat it with something, anything, that makes it a little stronger and paint it (or not) and wrap it in tape. It won't be beautiful... that is not the purpose. The purpose is to deter intrusion into my property without me having to pull out my gun. That is the only reason I want to try out TTF.... never did proper TTF before so I want to see if I can aim better with it.

If I can't make it dependable and strong, I will do what was suggested... use this as a template to make others. Will make a plaster mold out of this and make another one out of epoxy. THAT should be strong enough.

 

[StringSlap]

I have heard of shellac... never seen it nor used it.

But honestly I am not all that interested in a beautiful finish. I'll most likely end up painting it all black anyway. I like all things black.

What I am interested in is increasing the strength of this wood .. even if marginally.... without using a vacuum chamber and epoxy.

When we play cricket, the bats are treated with some oil (could be linseed or could be the favorite/cheapest goto oil around here ... sesame seed oil) or they would shatter with the repeated hits of the very hard cricket ball.

So I know oiling gives wood strength. Which oil? THAT I don't know.

My plan is to coat it with something, anything, that makes it a little stronger and paint it (or not) and wrap it in tape. It won't be beautiful... that is not the purpose. The purpose is to deter intrusion into my property without me having to pull out my gun. That is the only reason I want to try out TTF.... never did proper TTF before so I want to see if I can aim better with it.

If I can't make it dependable and strong, I will do what was suggested... use this as a template to make others. Will make a plaster mold out of this and make another one out of epoxy. THAT should be strong enough.

Well if that's the case then just drill it and throw a couple of pins through it and call it a day. Can be fashioned from large nails, threaded rod, 1/4" oak dowels, or any suitable round scrap you can dig up. Dowels and threaded rod can be installed with wood glue. Anything else epoxy would be better. Relying on a finish to add structural support won't work. Along these lines...

 

[Sean Khan]

Aha! :aahhhh:

Welding rods? Maybe I have some lying around.

Or I can order those bicycle wheel spokes. But large nails seem very doable... I think I got some.

Thanks. I never thought of that.

You sir, are a lifesaver.

When I was a school lad I did exactly that with toothpicks to a soap sculpture that kept falling apart. Should have remembered that...