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Discussion Starter #21
One of the problems with a latex T-shirt (great way to start a post, this) is getting the thing on and off without finding oneself tied up around the shoulders in a big, thick, sticky rubber band. The cure (if you don't want to go around lubed or dripping sweaty talc) is chlorination. I haven't done this myself as some of the avant-garde couturiers are set up to do it better, but I gather the process, involving things like ammonia and hydrochloric acid, essentially fills in the microscopic troughs in the latex allowing it to slide easily over itself. Certainly chlorinated T-shirts are easy to don and doff, and are comfortable in between.

Next time I send a couple of items off for chlorination I'll add a bag of office bands and let you know how it goes.
 

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One of the problems with a latex T-shirt (great way to start a post, this) is getting the thing on and off without finding oneself tied up around the shoulders in a big, thick, sticky rubber band. The cure (if you don't want to go around lubed or dripping sweaty talc) is chlorination. I haven't done this myself as some of the avant-garde couturiers are set up to do it better, but I gather the process, involving things like ammonia and hydrochloric acid, essentially fills in the microscopic troughs in the latex allowing it to slide easily over itself. Certainly chlorinated T-shirts are easy to don and doff, and are comfortable in between.

Next time I send a couple of items off for chlorination I'll add a bag of office bands and let you know how it goes.
Hmmm ... Latex T shirts sound KINKY
Actually, they sound uncomfortable to me, but I have never tried one. How about cutting slingshot bands from a latex T shirt?

I will be interested to hear how the treatment you suggest affects the rubberbands. I never heard of this before.

Cheers ..... Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #23
If you're in a typical London nightclub... well, something like TG anyway... you're gonna sweat whatever you wear. It's like a wetsuit or armour - you rapidly get to equilibrium point then you're ok.

There are a couple of latex sheet manufacturers over here and the formulae are slightly different. 4D is the company I'm most familiar with - can't remember the name of the other one - and their stuff looks like it might be very suitable for catapults. It's available in a range of thicknesses and pretty colours from www.supatex.com
 

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Hi Charles, I've been lurking for a while now as my interest in slingshots has been rekindled from posts on another board. I have been considering my options and would have never thought to try office bands. My experience was with red rubber bands made from truck inner tubes and when they disappeared, surgical rubber tubing.

I have and old oak "board" cut slingshot frame that still has one dark brown and cracked surgical rubber tube attached and a very dried out leather pouch attached. I went to Staples today after double checking for their Alliance 107 bands. Sadly when I drove there only Staples brands were available. I bought their "84" (3.5" x 1/2") and "64" 3.5" x 1/4") bands anyway. I have just mink oiled that old pouch and am waiting to see if it softens.

I have successfully made a pouch for a sling (not a slingshot) from jean material (2 layers with a light smear of "Goop" between them) and saw a post here about using seat belt material. I was wondering if you have any thoughts about using fabric like materials for pouches?

Thanks again for the office band enlightenment!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Just broken the first No. 38 band, near the pouch. Removed one from the other side so it's now 3,4,5 from pouch to fork in the folded/braided format and the thing shoots more sweetly than ever. I've not talc'd this lot cos I wanted to see how long they'd last. There's a second band on its way out now and I've only put about 50 shots through it.

Pelletor - I'd be wary of using any kind of oil or grease on the leather if it's in contact with the bands as rubber tends to dissolve in these substances. I use crust roo (tanned but otherwise untreated) for pouches instead of drum stuffed (greased) and finish forks with shellac rather than tung or linseed oil for this reason.
 

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Hey Alex, Thanks! The mink oil was a bit of a concern so I avoided the area around the holes on each end of the old pouch but I had no idea the rubber in these bands was so reactive to that sort of oil to even avoid tung and linseed oil on the wood. Thanks for sharing!

I'm not certain I can recover the old leather pouch so I also started a pouch made of two layers of jean material. I traced around the old one. I have it curing between two blocks of wood clamped together with C-Clamps. I also found an old pair of leather slippers that I saved, my wife will be delighted to learn I DO have a use for them. LOL!
 

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I've been putting,ever so lightly, Petro-Gel on my bands. Its Technical White Grease, used in the food industry. I've been putting it on my cooking apparatuses for quite some time. on the back of the tube one of the things it says it is good for is "O" rings. Its super cheap, available and I thought I'd give it a try.
 

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One more note on lubricating rubber bands...When you lubricate the rubber bands before you knot up your chains, it makes handling a lot easier and less friction when you draw the knots tight...creating a neater chain band consistantly....
 

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Hi Charles, I've been lurking for a while now as my interest in slingshots has been rekindled from posts on another board. I have been considering my options and would have never thought to try office bands. My experience was with red rubber bands made from truck inner tubes and when they disappeared, surgical rubber tubing.

I have and old oak "board" cut slingshot frame that still has one dark brown and cracked surgical rubber tube attached and a very dried out leather pouch attached. I went to Staples today after double checking for their Alliance 107 bands. Sadly when I drove there only Staples brands were available. I bought their "84" (3.5" x 1/2") and "64" 3.5" x 1/4") bands anyway. I have just mink oiled that old pouch and am waiting to see if it softens.

I have successfully made a pouch for a sling (not a slingshot) from jean material (2 layers with a light smear of "Goop" between them) and saw a post here about using seat belt material. I was wondering if you have any thoughts about using fabric like materials for pouches?

Thanks again for the office band enlightenment!
Almost anything can be used for pouches. There are a number of concerns, however.

One concern is the extent of wear on the bands. Some materials may be harder on the bands than others. One of my concerns about melt-sealed nylon is that the melted material may be sharp and abraid the bands quickly. You just have to try things and see what works. If you are into sewing, you could probably keep the edges of nylon from raveling by sewing them ... or maybe seal them with silcon glue used for caulking around windows or tubs.

Another concern is how tough the material is. Cotton fabrics tend to be pretty soft and wear out pretty quickly. But as you suggest, maybe you could make a layer or two with Shoe Goo or silicon caulking between the layers, and strengthen it a bit without making it too stiff.

Another concern is how heavy the material is. The more your pouch weighs, the more energy the bands have to expend, so the slower your shot will be.

Some folks have used a couple of layers of duct tape for pouches and say it works well ... I have not tried it myself. One person on this forum experimented with weaving pouches on a very simple nail loom, using small diameter nylon chord, and that seemed to work well. As a kid, I tried auto inner tube for pouches, but found it tore pretty easily.

I buy old leather clothes from second hand stores and use that. The leather industry has discovered how to split hides, so most jackets and so on are very thin these days. I have been lucky enough to find older jackets (less costly anyway!) and a couple of leather skirts that were made from very heavy leather. Some on this forum have glued pieces of the thinner leather together with contact cement or similar glues, and they have reported good success. Other sources of strong leather are leather work gloves, leather boots, and welder's gloves and aprons. I find leather in belts to be too stiff.

I am sure that if you look around, check your second hand stores, you will find something that will work for you.

Cheers ..... Charles
 

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Just broken the first No. 38 band, near the pouch. Removed one from the other side so it's now 3,4,5 from pouch to fork in the folded/braided format and the thing shoots more sweetly than ever. I've not talc'd this lot cos I wanted to see how long they'd last. There's a second band on its way out now and I've only put about 50 shots through it.

Pelletor - I'd be wary of using any kind of oil or grease on the leather if it's in contact with the bands as rubber tends to dissolve in these substances. I use crust roo (tanned but otherwise untreated) for pouches instead of drum stuffed (greased) and finish forks with shellac rather than tung or linseed oil for this reason.
You have made a nice taper ... 3,4,5 . I would bet it shoots faster than 4,4,5, as long as the ammo is not too heavy. I will be interested to hear how your talced bands compare to the un-talced bands.

Cheers ....... Charles
 

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Thanks for your very considered reply Charles.

I have gone on to make the jeans pouch and I'm about to attach it to my old frame after having linked (braided) several Staples 84 and 64 bands. Not sure what combination I'll end up with so it's too early to post here.

I did manage to weigh both the old leather pouch and the new jeans pouch at 3.86 grams and 2.72 grams respectively. I have no idea what a heavy or light pouch means so I decided to go with what worked for me way back when..... only in jean material.

I can hardly wait to take my 1st few shots! Below is a picture comparing the two pouches ( I hope)!

http://i320.photobuc...erJeanPouch.jpg
 

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Those look like stone pouches to me ... that is, made for shooting stones. People usually select stones that are a bit on the large size, and the pouch needs to be larger to avoid foul shooting ... foul shooting occurs when the pouch slips from around the ammo, and the ammo flies off in a weird direction. If you are shooting steel or lead balls, you can probably get by with a smaller pouch ... by smaller, I mean narrower and perhaps shorter too. I shoot both stones and steel and lead balls, so I use a pouch that is larger than most of the guys here. My pouches are usually one inch wide (2.54 cm) and 3 to 4 inches long (7.5 to 10 cm). There is quite a bit of variation in pouch sizes on this forum. But it is perhaps wise to "go with what you know" and make changes slowly. As you get back into shooting, do not be afraid to experiment a bit, but try to change only one thing at a time so you can see what works for you. There are no really hard and fast rules!

Cheers ...... Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The 3,4,5 set-up was indeed faster than 4,4,5 but rather too short-lived. I've come down to 3,3,4 which seems to be about the same speed with M8 hex nuts as 3,4,5; probably because I'm drawing an inch or two more. Easier draw and better accuracy as well.

Following advice on another thread I turned my 'roo hide pouch flesh side out and yes, the grip and release are improved and the pouch has more of a, well, pouch shape to it.

Yep, talc works but it's messy. It'll have to do til I get the chlorination sorted out.
 

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Well, I had my session with the 10 year old lad yesterday. I provided him with a Ninja variant, cut from HDPE, with a bycycle innertube covering for the handle, and a lanyard. I had it set up with gypsy tabs held in place by screws and acorn nuts. I let him try a braided 111111 set up with Staples 64s. They were too heavy for him to draw comfrotably. Then I had him try a braided 333333 set up with Office Depot 33s. But he found that to be too strong for him as well. So he and I talced some more Office Depot 33s and made braided 222222 bands, which were much more to his liking. I had him begin with aluminum foil balls as ammo before moving to 3/8 inch steel.

I sent him home with the slingshot, a bunch of extra rubber bands, some talc, an extra pouch, a pvc backstop, and some leather targets of varying sizes. I had a report that he was quite excited when he got home ... he was assembling the backstop and showing his dad how everything worked. Hopefully he will get a lot of joy out of the whole package.

Those braided bands were pretty easy for him to assemble, and he had no trouble changing bands with those Gypsy tabs. And it was certainly advantageous that the draw weight was easily adjustable to suit him. In case of breakage, he can find those 33s or 32s most anywhere and make up new band sets himself.

Those braided office rubberbands certainly worked well in this situation.

Cheers ....... Charles
 

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First post here. Armorall? That stuff is really greasy. Silicone I believe. I would imagine that if any of this stuff getting on your slingshot would be virtually impossible to remove. Let alone on your hands. Talc power seams more reasonable. Ever notice that or a similar product is what is on many rubber items? Could it be because it stops friction?
 

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Hey .... another Canuck. Welcome to the forum. Yep, talc is what they put inside bike innertubes to keep them from sticking together while folded. The nice thing about talk is that you can buy it anywhere.

Cheers ...... Charles
 

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I am just getting into shooting now. The internet is certainly a great resource. That's how I found this site. I have ordered in 5 different slingshots from ebay. All metal variations to start with. Got in the first one last week and it had the surgical bands. Way to strong. My hand was shaking. So I went to Staples and got some #64's. Saw the way they are tied on this forum. Great way to adjust for strength. I have 3 sons and we do a lot of camping. This will be a very enjoyable hobby for target shooting. At least it's still legal here! I like simple. Not interested in going over board. Just like when we were kids. Oh, I got an elastic band eye injury when I was 15. When stretching a band another guy hit my hand and it hit me in the white of my eye. I have my grade 9 photo to prove it. Eye protection for me!
 

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I am just getting into shooting now. The internet is certainly a great resource. That's how I found this site. I have ordered in 5 different slingshots from ebay. All metal variations to start with. Got in the first one last week and it had the surgical bands. Way to strong. My hand was shaking. So I went to Staples and got some #64's. Saw the way they are tied on this forum. Great way to adjust for strength. I have 3 sons and we do a lot of camping. This will be a very enjoyable hobby for target shooting. At least it's still legal here! I like simple. Not interested in going over board. Just like when we were kids. Oh, I got an elastic band eye injury when I was 15. When stretching a band another guy hit my hand and it hit me in the white of my eye. I have my grade 9 photo to prove it. Eye protection for me!
Sounds like you are off to a good start. It is a lot of fun, regardless of your age. I think you will find those 64s a good place to start. You can adjust the draw weight to suit you and your kids, all from the same meterial. They are not the fastest bands on the planet, but they are a great way to get started. I am glad to hear your comments about eye protection ... we always think it will not happen to us, but then it does.

Cheers .... Charles
 

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If you made some tests with the Armorall you wil find it does extend the life of the bands...and likewise with bike inner tubes...if cost is a problem use talc...most companies might pack with this to cut costs, but I wouldn`t say that it does a better job of extending the life of rubber...Apply lightly and remove all excess for best results...
 

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I am just getting into shooting now. The internet is certainly a great resource. That's how I found this site. I have ordered in 5 different slingshots from ebay. All metal variations to start with. Got in the first one last week and it had the surgical bands. Way to strong. My hand was shaking. So I went to Staples and got some #64's. Saw the way they are tied on this forum. Great way to adjust for strength. I have 3 sons and we do a lot of camping. This will be a very enjoyable hobby for target shooting. At least it's still legal here! I like simple. Not interested in going over board. Just like when we were kids. Oh, I got an elastic band eye injury when I was 15. When stretching a band another guy hit my hand and it hit me in the white of my eye. I have my grade 9 photo to prove it. Eye protection for me!
64's and 84's is what i use. your kids will be able to draw these easily. i even use the 64's in a chain.
 
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