[Sneaky]

Hi everyone - sorry, not sure If this question should go here or in tools. I’ve been making board cut frames out of 3/4” Baltic birch ply, and they come out pretty decent and usable, however I’m trying to do a better job and up my making game since there are so many beautiful pieces on here. I use either a blade runner or a handheld jig saw, and the Baltic birch is so tough, that when I cut curves its very difficult and actually starts scorching the wood black a little. It’s just the very outer layer of wood and is easy to sand off, but I’m wondering if there’s any easier way to cut, if this is normal/abnormal, or if I just can’t use jigsaws on this wood. I’ve tried several different types of blades, but maybe haven’t found the right one? Thanks.

 

[AppalachianFlipShooter]

I've tried every way possible to cut BB, and the best I've seen is a variable speed scroll saw. You may also want to put some painters tape on the board to prevent tear out on the outer layers

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[cromag]

A coping saw certainly won't char the wood but will be a bit labor intensive. Change the blade so the teeth are facing away from you and you're cutting on the push vs the pull. If you use a jigsaw , use one that has a forward thrust with the blade and a narrow blade , possibly even a bimetal blade. I use a band saw for all the frames I make and they cut like butter ,especially with 1/8" blades.

 

[lovetosling123]

No matter what material I use I'll cut just outside of the lines of my design then with a sanding drum on a dremel I'll sand right up to the lines. I've been doing it that way for quite a while

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[Sneaky]

Thanks for the ideas everyone!

 

[Sneaky]

Maybe I’ll try some different blades or even start looking for a scroll saw

 

[vince4242]

I know what you mean Sneaky, these guys make the most amazing slingshots!? Mine are very functional but don't look anything like what these guys can do. I'm happy if they shoot well and they looked fairly decent.

Cheers

 

[Sneaky]

Yeah, mine work but I’d like to start getting better on the artistic side. The frames posted here are incredible.

 

[flipgun]

When the blade is scorching the wood, that is a sign that you are pushing the wood too hard. You can slip and push your hand on the blade. Ease up, slow down and let the blade do the work.

 

[Sneaky]

Thanks I’ve definitely been applying some pressure to try to cut angled corners, where I usually get scorching. I’ll try to move slower and see if I can find a better scrolling blade.

 

[Trap1]

2 things will cause scorching, blunt blades & incorrect Teeth.P.I & combination o both = fire 6-10 T.P.I is fine for wood, blunt blades + fine TPI use more feed pressure hence burning
e.g. above 20tpi has less room for kerf removal & causes heat hence burning..

 

[Sneaky]

Thanks!

 

[Pebble Shooter]

I have also encountered the same problems as you have described.

A narrow blade is essential for the tight curves in the birch plywood template. The key issue is to avoid static friction points, to slow down the electric jigsaw pace when needed, and take more time to cut certain sections slowly to avoid scorch marks.

When faced with difficult sections such as pinch grip curves, I sometimes cut a "V" as opposed to cutting out the curved section, and subsequently use a rasp (edges first, then the center part) to complete the intended rounded shape - particularly when 21 mm thick Baltic birch plywood is involved: more cutting blade resistance.

Cutting out a shape slightly larger than intended to allow for possible friction scorched tight angles allows you to achieve the final shape with other tools later, which will also remove those unwanted scorch marks.

 

[Sneaky]

Thanks Pebble shooter! I only tried a very narrow scrolling blade once and bent it trying to force it around some tight curves...I probably should have used better technique and not given up on them so soon.