[31610]

Got a hard choice to make cut out a almost perfect champ but it’s 20mm thick has pretty wood but I kinda want to add swells . But if I add swells it’s going to be a chunky monkey! Also I cover the pretty handle wood but I think the scales would look cool . So I guess a question is how thick do u like your frames just looking for so input. Thanks for looking guys

 

[Quercusuber]

It looks a bit thick from here.

The question is: if you sand it down to a specific thickness, will it break eventually?

That's a risk you can't take.

Or you can add some thin palmswells, more decorative than functional.

Anyway, LOVELY design and nice piece of wood

Get to work!!

Cheers ...Q

 

[31610]

I have done a few a little thinner but like u say I don’t want get into the sketchy zone . It’s almost a shame to cover the handles the wood looks good maybe just save the swell wood for a different project. . Lol always something eh Q

 

[MIsling]

That is some beautiful wood! I tend to like thinner frames, especially at the forks. I usually aim for 10-15 mm.

Might be a good candidate for a core if you have a way to slice it down the middle.

Whatever you end up doing, it's gonna look nice!

 

[Dr J]

Got a hard choice to make cut out a almost perfect champ but it's 20mm thick has pretty wood but I kinda want to add swells . But if I add swells it's going to be a chunky monkey! Also I cover the pretty handle wood but I think the scales would look cool . So I guess a question is how thick do u like your frames just looking for so input. Thanks for looking guys

I would cut it down the middle, insert a metal core, add the palm swells and then taper the frame to the dimensions you think best.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[31610]

That is some beautiful wood! I tend to like thinner frames, especially at the forks. I usually aim for 10-15 mm.
Might be a good candidate for a core if you have a way to slice it down the middle.
Whatever you end up doing, it's gonna look nice!

ya I like about the same size frame as you not sure I was thinking when I glued it up . Think the only choice I have is to cut it apart . Thanks My friend for your input. Guess if I drilled a couple pin holes and a lanyard hole it be easier to keep my shape with a core u think

 

[31610]

Got a hard choice to make cut out a almost perfect champ but it's 20mm thick has pretty wood but I kinda want to add swells . But if I add swells it's going to be a chunky monkey! Also I cover the pretty handle wood but I think the scales would look cool . So I guess a question is how thick do u like your frames just looking for so input. Thanks for looking guys

I would cut it down the middle, insert a metal core, add the palm swells and then taper the frame to the dimensions you think best.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have some 3mm g10 or 3mm aluminum guess I am going have bite the bullet and cut it in half . Nothing like making more work for yourself lol . Thanks man for the reply

 

[Ibojoe]

Good choice PB. But be careful starting the saw. I've broken the back fork on several trying to split em.
It'll all be worth it in the end.

 

[MOJAVE MO]

That would be a project to put back on the bench and contemplate. My first production frame purchase was a Scorpion a few years ago. I still find a full frame to point better for me. I like nice lumber as much as the next shooter but I'll take bullet proof before pretty. I've gone as thick as 1" on the palm side and 1/2" on the target side. But that thick needs added material in the web of the hand so the fork don't pivot back in the palm. Maybe so should just send you the dimension of my hand? I can also convert my measurements to metric if that helps.

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[31610]

Good choice PB. But be careful starting the saw. I've broken the back fork on several trying to split em.
It'll all be worth it in the end.

ya I hate to snap it off dang I be as mad as a wet hen lol . Thanks Joe

 

[31610]

That would be a project to put back on the bench and contemplate. My first production frame purchase was a Scorpion a few years ago. I still find a full frame to point better for me. I like nice lumber as much as the next shooter but I'll take bullet proof before pretty. I've gone as thick as 1" on the palm side and 1/2" on the target side. But that thick needs added material in the web of the hand so the fork don't pivot back in the palm. Maybe so should just send you the dimension of my hand? I can also convert my measurements to metric if that helps.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks Mo ! Funny thing about the metric system is I worked on old Mack trucks for 18 years all old Dm 1988 to 1989 and the guys I worked with all older and hated the metric system . But fast forward to last 10 years I done machine maintenance on Japanese equipment so had learn metric. So that said I am pretty good at conversion lol

 

[MIsling]

That is some beautiful wood! I tend to like thinner frames, especially at the forks. I usually aim for 10-15 mm.
Might be a good candidate for a core if you have a way to slice it down the middle.
Whatever you end up doing, it's gonna look nice!

ya I like about the same size frame as you not sure I was thinking when I glued it up . Think the only choice I have is to cut it apart . Thanks My friend for your input. Guess if I drilled a couple pin holes and a lanyard hole it be easier to keep my shape with a core u think

Just another thought-

You could laminate your 3mm g10 to the target side to gain some strength without having to slice it. That would give you the ability to shape or thin out the front to your heart's content.

Sent from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

 

[bingo]

Looks good as is nuisy but looking forward to see the final result

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[bingo]

Looks good as is buddy

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[devils son in law]

I dunno ... that's a very nice piece of wood and being a board cut, you want to make sure it's stout. I say round the edges and call it good.

As they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

 

[Reed Lukens]

I dunno ... that's a very nice piece of wood and being a board cut, you want to make sure it's stout. I say round the edges and call it good.

As they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Yup, it's plenty stout as is, it shaping time :headbang:

 

[31610]

That is some beautiful wood! I tend to like thinner frames, especially at the forks. I usually aim for 10-15 mm.
Might be a good candidate for a core if you have a way to slice it down the middle.
Whatever you end up doing, it's gonna look nice!

ya I like about the same size frame as you not sure I was thinking when I glued it up . Think the only choice I have is to cut it apart . Thanks My friend for your input. Guess if I drilled a couple pin holes and a lanyard hole it be easier to keep my shape with a core u think

Just another thought-
You could laminate your 3mm g10 to the target side to gain some strength without having to slice it. That would give you the ability to shape or thin out the front to your heart's content.
Sent from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk

that work just I have the bamboo in the centre probably look a little off . I never thought this one through very well

 

[31610]

Looks good as is buddy
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thanks John;-)

 

[31610]

I dunno ... that's a very nice piece of wood and being a board cut, you want to make sure it's stout. I say round the edges and call it good.

As they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

haha Jake this has crossed my mind . Is it more work to cut apart and fix or just live with it and make a new one way I want . Probably making a mountain out of a mole hill

 

[31610]

I dunno ... that's a very nice piece of wood and being a board cut, you want to make sure it's stout. I say round the edges and call it good.

As they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Yup, it's plenty stout as is, it shaping time :headbang:

thanks Reed I make the call today lol