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round fork head shooter, steel wire frame

390 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Mrln
Hi,
I plan building something like this,
the idea is to use those wooden beech balls with a hole in them as fork heads. Since round fork heads would have more than 50% extra of circumference as a standard one. So you can fit extra wide bands (tapers) onto
easily. only aiming with those round fork tips would be less advanced, but I could spend it a pistol front sight / grain.
also the rubber should last a bit longer than on normal fork tips, because the rubber gets less stretched on the outsides, so the spots where it tears first will be less tense.
Font Drawing Diagram Line art Balance
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Out of the box thinking!
I hope you get a prototype fabricated and tested.
Should be fun and informative!
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A lot of revolutionary designs for many things began exactly this way... with someone willing to try build something new...

I say go for it. The worst that can happen is you figure out something that needs to be tweaked to improve in the next version.
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An interesting idea from a purely theoretical perspective.

The problem with wood balls mounted on steel fork prongs is that they will eventually rotate around the prongs (any glue will not last long), and possibly break at the (invisible) point of weakness inside the wood grain, with pieces of broken wood potentially flying back towards you.

The forces being applied to the wood balls by fully drawn out flat bands would concentrate on their core section - hence, aluminum would be a safer material for the balls.

However, because of the height of the fork prongs relative to the grip section, the already potentially high amount of wrist torque (fist-grip slingshot) would be accentuated by the relative weight of the wood balls due to leverage effects. A lower fork prong height would reduce wrist torque only to some extent.

Moreover, aiming via the fork prong mounted balls would not be straightforward either. Just my personal assessments with regard to your project.

I came up with a method (video link below) of attaching flat bands to cold bent stainless steel slingshots, which I deem very safe after having made various slingshots with this concept using both 6 mm and 8 mm stainless steel rod, which was cold bent into shape using a proper rod bender - have a look here:


The rod bender I used was purchased online from the US (BAC Industries):


Well worth having.
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Weird frames are interesting, I have been using a Chinese wire frame (dankung style) with plugs for band testing as there's nothing quicker for changing length and find that surprisingly easy to aim for me.
Also been making some naturals with flat/straight cut but round tips and the bands definitely pull back in a clean line from them.

If using wire I would suggest threading the wire ends for the ball's with the addition of adhesive. Confident wood will manage non-magnum bands Kalevala does plenty of destruction testing wood beads, but be safe. Also think low tips is a good idea so very square bends in the metal. If you know someone with a lathe some of the engineering plastics would be a good choice for the balls.
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Please, give it a try and let us know how you make out.
Bright minds, bright future.

Mitch
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Definitely try all avenues, some go great places, some are simply back to start.
Post photos ~ToRn
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Might be entertaining to see it made with pool balls.
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Good idea but might be tricky to aim at first.
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thanks for all the nice and helpful comments!
notice to myself: plastic balls are a good idea. maybe 3d printed ABS, only I don't have a printer but I know somebody who could do it for me maybe...

My drawing skills aren't that great to show how I would build it, it's just a basic sketch... but I imagine this would work well, at least for instinctive shooting in what i'm not into yet, as aiming over the bands would be hardier. the slingshot will be build ergonomically,
As I have several different commercial frames of course the slingshot will be as ergonomic and build with basic knowledge about good shooters... (lowest fork height possible, what grip will be used etc.)

btw: Rods can be bent easily with homemade DIY stuff. but yes, a bender would be the better option to make some more of them...
however safety issues are noticed and if I would commercially sell them, strong plastic should be fine as for safety.
PS: I think for the most bands the wooden (beech) balls will be sufficient. we are only talking about maybe up to 6kg per side as a maximum, and using epoxy glue should stabilzie the wood a bit at the spots with the highest tension...

here an iteration, It need a welder.

Basketball Basketball hoop Ball Sports equipment Playing sports

for other grip designs I could add wood on the forks.
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It looks from the second drawing you could somehow make a Star Wars themed one reminds me of some of the ships.

Have fun building.
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Don't underestimate bending 8 mm steel rod.

It's actually hard work, particularly when ensuring precise bending angles. Stainless steel is "springy" (chrome content), which makes things a bit more challenging too to get things just right. Get the right tool for the job, play safe.

Been there, done that...;)

The reward is something sturdy that will last a slingshot shooter's lifetime, with a "magnum" capability included (16 mm ammo no problem with the right band set).

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Maybe test the concept on a natty fork first, round off the tops instead of cutting them off? Interesting idea, good luck!...
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Might be entertaining to see it made with pool balls.
I considered mentioning skittle pool balls. But figured no one would remember back that far.
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okay i had to look around for this one for a while,but it was one of those head massager things and i thought it would be a good sling amd it was except bands would eventually move side to side,lol

now it lives in a shoebox with other "experiments" that didnt quite work out,lol
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Would not be as rewarding as doing it all yourself but if you did find one of the wire frame plastic grip frames cheap on eBay could be a quick modification to fit balls.
Or if your just interested in playing with the shapes mild steel can be bent very easily in a vise with the assistance of a butane torch and adjustable spanner, won't be as strong/long lasting as stainless but it's easier to work with and cheaper. Just look for 8-10mm not 6mm.
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