[abwurfgrenni]

@ HOE and Zille

Yes i do mean something like that, use google for "Federbolzen" you will find pictures about it.

I think it should work, at least theoreticaly, because when you shoot the dart the lighter tail, wich also should have a greater air resistance, should slow down and the heavier tip should turn forward. But thats only my thinking about how it should work theoreticaly.
Because i think this is basicly the way all darts with a tail like this work, for example in blowguns. The dart is prevented from turning over by the slower tail.

One point more about the flechettes,
some said, that it might get tangled the way it is hooked to the slingshot, i think its technicaly the same system that is used for rubberband spearguns and there its working fine.

 

[HOE]

The hook on the dart tip getting snagged is one thing, another potential risk is the tails getting tangled on the rubber band or the wire pouch. Maybe you can try tape fletching instead of strings or yarn.

 

[abwurfgrenni]

That is what i said, i use ducttape fletching with two "wings" on my naildarts. And if the hook cut in to the nail is big enough to fit the wire easily i dont see ther to much of an risk of tangeling. But if you are still worried about that you could use an outer hook that is fixed (welded, glued or soldered) to the shaft instead of being cut into the shaft. That should reduce the potential risk of tangeling even more.

 

[coyotebarren]

Heres a couple photos of my slingshot that I have been working on these last few years. This model is set up for shooting steel balls. The grip was originally made for olympic style air pistols. I fashioned the "barrel" from aluminum taken from a Harris bipod and the rotating posts and frame from a piece of titanium. The rotating posts holder is adjustable foreward or backward via set screws at the fulcrum. The "barrel" can be adjusted foreward or backward to adjust the draw weight of the tubes. The pouch has a small rare earth magnet in it that holds the ball centered while the release is attached by the loop on the back of the pouch. The loop is made of spectra fiber and seems very strong and durable. Another loop is attached to the bottom of the pouch which is slipped over the carriage bolt head and this allows for easy attachment of the hydraulic release. Behind the carriage bolt is a magnet that is used to hold the ammo in place while hooking the pouch to the carriage bolt.
Hanging beneath the "barrel is a set of what are known in the target archery world as v-bars. The v-bars help hold everything stationary while the ball is accelerating, adds weight that helps minimise movement of the slingshot, dampens vibration, and helps minimise aiming tremors. And they help keep things balanced so the front doesnt start dropping as soon as the ball is released.
The arm brace is attached to the grip via a bolt that runs up to the aluminum barrel holder. THe barrel holder can be tipped up or down to adjust band clearance over top of the carriage bolt. The arm brace is attached to a shaped aluminum block on the bottom of the grip . This brace can be adjusted left and right via bolts in the shaped aluminum block. The rear of the brace is made from aluminum that is contoured to fit the shape of my forearm. I split an old band and taped it to the forearm brace to snug things up . It can be adjustedleft or right .
The grip itself can be made larger or smaller to accomodate different sized hands.
At the very front of the slingshot is attached a target archery sight that has a micrometer adjusting knob. The aiming ring of the sight can be adjusted any way you might need . The sight extends out far enough that the bands dont hit it and the aiming ring is far enough away that everything stays in focus.
So far it seems to shoot very accurately as I am using a hydreaulic release that releases the pouch at a pre set interval. No target panic as the release releases itself.
Inside the bands are lengths of spectra string that limits how far the bands can be drawn back, thus minimising thrust variations.
The sight , and v-bars, came from the target archery days of my youth . In designing the thing I wanted to see how accurate a slingshot can be,and this is the reason for all the attachments . I am currently working on a design to shoot darts. The weapon will have only one band and will utilise a falling band rest that will be pushed foreward and down so as to allow the dart to pass over the rest without causing deflections. In theory it will work but the band tail strikes it with such force that it tears things up pretty good. It can be inserted into the barrel holder of this slingshot by turning a set screw.
The above mentioned slingshot is very easy to shoot and seems to minimise the need for skill. Once I understand the thing Im going to design something a lot smaller that will pack a good punch . I hunt moose every year in canada and I have to pass up the shots at smaller game because of the noise factor of rifles.

 

[roadie]

i jus bought a 8mm threaded rod ...... for jus S$2.50 !!!! cheap !!!

and made 10 short flettches .... end not yet sharpen nor fitted with wings ...

did a short range shooting in my room ,,,, it rocks!

 

[josephlys]

Those look like they can do some damage

. Careful of those chopped cylinder rods, their rough edges may potentially cut your bands. Roundballs still fly the truest thou', and they won't harm the bands.

 

[roadie]

yea .... grinding will be tomo ..... mummy will be home soon

 

[josephlys]

LOL, yeah once I got caught using an angle grinder in the house and I got it so bad from mummy LOL

 

[Chimes]

Well I don't know if your still working on this, but I found a video. Maybe you have seen it maybe not but just putting this in.

 

[mckee]

looking forwards to this!

 

[mckee]

Well I don't know if your still working on this, but I found a video. Maybe you have seen it maybe not but just putting this in.
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=3kqnjSdhJO4

wouldent catch me doing that

 

[Sleepy]

As a bone crusher variation one might shoot a short length of steel chain too.

 

[abwurfgrenni]

Well I don't know if your still working on this, but I found a video. Maybe you have seen it maybe not but just putting this in.
http://www.youtube.c...h?v=3kqnjSdhJO4

now thats nice, but i think u should not be cowardly to do that, and maybe a litle bit crazy

 

[bcavery]

I have been involved in archery both tradition and compound for the last 20 years and I have seen several very nasty injuries involving arrows in the back of the hand/wrist. Back when overdraws were all the rage it happened all to often. An arrow driven through the hand can have irreparable results even to the point of losing fingers entirely.

With that said I do think the idea is an intriguing one but I would not try it without some type of metal arm/hand guard in place to deflect the possible wayward flechette. One shot could very well end all you slingshoting fun forever.

 

[Robert123]

I'm new to the forum. I made and used homemade slingshots as a boy (I'm 63 now) and have recently purchased a couple of slingshots (Ergo2 and Black Widow)--how the technology has changed from the time of my boyhood! When I employ the shooting tips on this forum I make remarkably accurate shots. Today I ordered Thermaband Gold, rotary cutter, leather and other items needed to experiment with equiptment variations. I visited the Combow site at http://www.combowslingguy.com/INDEX.html and noted that the site is not taking orders at present. The products displayed on the site are exciting sling arrow and shot variations that are quite reasonably priced. Sling darts seem to be powerful weapons.

JoergS, I admire your many videos, ingenuity, affable personality and physical strength. You have obviously helped increase interest in the sport. JoergeS, you began this topic (made the first post) but you haven't made posts describing the results of your experimentation. What happened? Do you have a video? What are your latest thoughts on this subject?

 

[JoergS]

Robert, yes, I did make a video.

In essence, flechettes work fine. I never encountered a stray shot that was even remotely dangerous for my hand. Shot from the crossbow, there is of course zero danger.

Then again, what exactly are flechettes good for? They cost a lot more money than steel or lead balls and require a lot of work.

After the video, I experimented some more with the fins and found out that you need at least three, better four of them to avoid strays. Two aren't enough because they stabilize in one direction only.

I feel that I explored the field to the full. I went back to balls. It was fun, though!

Jörg

 

[Robert123]

Jeorg,

Thank you for the video and your comments.

Perhaps there is one large advantage of flechettes over balls that is often overlooked-penetration. You have excellent videos of balls penetrating ballistic gelatin. Ballistic gelatin simulates flesh. There are many internet videos of slingshot shooters using simple cloth as a target backdrop. The slingshot balls have plenty of force to penetrate at least some depth of ballistic gelatin yet a piece of cloth absorbsthe energy and momentum and therefore stop the flight of ball ammunition. My speculation is that balls shot from a powerful slingshot would also be stopped or greatly slowed by a hanging cloth towel. If a deer were wearing a jacket, would a ball from a powerful slingshot penetrate the jacket?

My point is that flechettes are excellent penetrators compared to balls.

 

[JoergS]

True, penetration is better. But I have no use for that, as I don't hunt, and I have no plans to ever shoot another human beeing.

I like target shooting and destruction. Lead and steel balls are perfect for these tasks.