I prefer shooting frames with a wide fork gap - around 4" or a little over. With my usual target band setup, while I primarily aim off the bands, I can also use the frame as a reference as it's very close to the target. When I switch to something with a smaller gap - say around 3.5 inches, I have to take some shots to acclimate myself and shoot more of an aim/instinctive style, as I'm holding much lower. Shooting a 3" gap, things start to get more difficult (again this is with the same band setup).
I was wondering for those who shoot a lot of frames, as the fork gap changes, do you change your aiming point/aiming style, or do you change band setups. I'm going to make up some bands with slightly less power for the really small gap frames, so I can raise the frame closer to the target rather than holding so low compared to my preferred wide gap frames. I was just curious what other people out there were doing. Maybe most people are shooting totally instinctive, so this isn't even a consideration?
Change your anchor point. Or adjust your band/ammo combination. I like to keep my aiming reference point the same - I prefer to adjust the bands/ammo. It just takes little experimenting to get the same aiming reference and the same anchor to get the same point of impact.
Change your anchor point. Or adjust your band/ammo combination. I like to keep my aiming reference point the same - I prefer to adjust the bands/ammo. It just takes little experimenting to get the same aiming reference and the same anchor to get the same point of impact.
Change your anchor point. Or adjust your band/ammo combination. I like to keep my aiming reference point the same - I prefer to adjust the bands/ammo. It just takes little experimenting to get the same aiming reference and the same anchor to get the same point of impact.
Thanks! Interesting to hear how people deal with this since there isn’t as much slingshot info out there as there is with archery for instance. I’m thinking I could get more consistency by tailoring band setups so the aim point is constant.
Thanks! I might have to give this a try too but I shot traditional bows for several years and never tried any face walking, so my anchor point is so locked in I’ll probably end up breaking a window or two...
I keep the same aiming point too, and just adjust everything else to accommodate the difference in fork width. Shooting without a fixed anchor point does help a lot though.
Really interesting to see how people deal with this. I thought more people would keep a preferred and constant band and ammo combination and just adjust their aim point. I guess I was wrong, maybe because, as I’ve realized, it can get difficult that way!
Really interesting to see how people deal with this. I thought more people would keep a preferred and constant band and ammo combination and just adjust their aim point. I guess I was wrong, maybe because, as I've realized, it can get difficult that way!
Oh, I should have clarified, I only adjust anchor point and/or posture, or the band touching point on my cheek bone, as I shoot 3/4+(7/8 maybe?) butterfly, not bands. I am not shooting slow bands just to get on target.
I usually shoot a few test rounds and adjust my aiming point accordingly.ive never actually thought about it until this post. Lol. Guess I should pay more attention.
Haha Treeman that's how I've always done it too - I have some stuff to think about and try out now...
Skropi: I was thinking about that earlier. If I change bands to maintain the same point of aim and keep everything else constant, it seems like I'll basically end up with a slower setup the narrower the fork gap is. Never even thought about this from a butterfly/non face anchor perspective just drawing shorter or longer.
The advantage of shooting with a long draw isnt the ability to draw longer or shorter, as I draw to the same spot anyway, just that it's easier to adjust "anchor" point
In short, the essence is to master the flying path of the projectile.
I would suggest you adjusting the aim by moving your front hand (frame holding hand) ONLY without changing other details. From my experience, this causes the least impact to your shot. You just need to move front hand down/up, for smaller/bigger frame respectively.
I do not recommend changing your bandset, because the change in fork width will create a slight change of feel with the power that might leads your body to adjust, which in turns causes inconsistency to your form. Still I strongly recommend people to shoot lighter for a consistency.
That being said I only shoot targets indoor at regular distance in gangsta form. I know shooters who would accommodate the changes by changing anchor point and bandset, but those are, in my opinion, advanced, and would take more time to master. Adjusting only your front hand while maintaining the same head angle and anchor causes the least changes to your form. Also, practice more and pay more attention to the projectile's flying path help you to deliver more consistency under different circumstances.
Skropi: sorry now I get it, just shows I've never messed around with anything but a face anchor style!
Thanks everyone! A lot of different things to try out and think about, I'm surprised one method doesn't seem to be the most popular but that's one thing I think is really fun about slingshots, everyone sort of doing their own thing. I did do some shooting last night with a preferred wide fork then switched to a pretty narrow fork frame and tried a higher anchor (under the cheekbone instead of corner of mouth) and it had some promise, I was at least hitting a can sometimes instead of the top of my catchbox. But it would definitely take a lot of practice to lock in a second anchor point. When I have some time I'm going to see if I can figure out some modified bandsets and see how that works out.
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