[CBob]

OK would someone please explain the various types and why. I have a Trumark seems OK but I would assume that it is a low shooter. I looked at A+, and BB and they seem OK but what about a Hatchcock at $100 and it is shot titled to 90 degrees, someone please explain.

 

[Bill Hays]

Hello CBob,

Just like with knives, guns or bows... you have different levels of quality, price and workmanship that go into making the product.
On one end of the spectrum you have cheaply made mass produced pieces that are perfectly fine for most use. At the other end of the spectrum you have pieces made from high end expensive materials and are highly engineered for attractiveness, portability, ergonomics, stability and enhanced accuracy.

The Hathcock Target Snipers, like most of the slingshots I've designed, are on the higher end of the spectrum and are specifically designed for the preferred shooting style of many of the most accurate shooters in the world. That shooting style is portrayed in the video below:

 

[Rayshot]

I will say I don't shoot the ganster style much. Yet I can say for me, Bill Hayes' design seemed to make a noticable difference in my accuracy in that style.

 

[NaturalFork]

I shoot sideways (gangster) even with my trumark. There is nothing wrong with a trumark. I can personally say the a+ slingshots are great too. You could also make a natural tree fork.

 

[hawk2009]

I have always shot gangsta style it is a very accurate way of shooting,I would just like to mention one addition to this style if you flip the slingshot on release you will avoid fork hits altogether.I started shooting slingshots in this way from the very beginning just a year ago now after purchasing my dankung they have several video's on how to shoot this style that was where I learnt it from,and can honestly say I have never had a fork hit so it definitely works.That was a very accurate description of how to shoot gangsta style Bill nice video.

 

[ZDP-189]

A newcomer is blessed and cursed with choice. Luckily there are few bad choices and the sport is cheap enough to try several before you settle on a style.

Some to try:

Natural Fork: Make one yourself or get one from eBay for about ten bucks. Traditional feel and surprisingly good ergonomics.

Commercial Folding Wrist Brace Tube/Flatband: $10-40 direct or from a toystore. Saunders Falcon 2 is a good pick for its flatbands. Otherwise generally bulky and not particularly effective. Good choice if you have wrist or finger joint problems.

Boardcut: Symmetrical and/or Ergonomic. $20 plus from a vendor here or make on yourself. Ambidextrous and often stylish. Easy to carry. Fast flatbands make them super effective.

Full ergo carved. Generally $40 and up. Baumstamm and others here are masters.

Starship: $40 and up, up, up. Forward projecting forks for pre-tension, wrist brace. Adjustable. Big for stability. Good for competition, not carry.

Chinese bent rod and multi-strand thin tubes: $20-40. Has to be tried. Stainless steel is best. Look for a good polish on the fork tips.

Miniature: small, ultrapocketable but very capable using flats or Chinese tubes. $10-$40 from site vendors.

There are other types and some are very exotic. If you see something you like and can't afford, try offering a trade for something you've made. Many makers are open to offers, even if they may be getting the short end of the deal.

 

[ZDP-189]

In my last post I talked about affordable choices. When you learn what suits you, you might decide to try something from the luxury end of the spectrum. What should you expect for $100 or more?

Shootability - pick a style that suits your shooting style and has a good reputation as an accurate slingshot.

Durability - if you are going to spend heavily on a slingshot, you'd want it to last. Some materials are harder to work, cost more in labour, tooling and consumables but can last a long time. Strong metals like aluminium, brass, stainless steel are durable and more likely to survive a fork hit, but may sustain cosmetic damage, espcially if they are combined with exposed wood. Micarta and especially G10 may survive a fork hit undammaged (but for safety's sake always check).

Style - it's got to look kick-arse awesome and really stir people's desire. The design should be unique and the finish flawless.

Collectability - a big name maker, or shooter's endorsement, limited editions, good exposure, exotic materials all contribute to collectability.

In the knife world, there are plenty of knives that command prices in the hundreds, thousands and even tens of thousands of dollars. There is no reason why a slingshot should not have the same value if there are collectors and worthy product.

For the time being though, stick to what you can afford.

 

[Devoman]

Its funny, When I started as a kid I didn't know there was another way than "Gangster" style, even when I got my first Wamo type fork I held it sideways, any other way didn't feel right! As for what slingshot to get it is up to taste / budget. I like any slingshot that shoots well and feels good doing it!

 

[kerplunk]

Thats great info.

The last sling I purchased (pretty recently) from (ahem) wallyworld seemed to deteriorate really quickly, and its kind of a bummer. Personally Id like to try something on the low end of handcrafted and (hopefully) longlasting to get me back into things.

Regarding bands, are there any general rules to follow?

 

[ZDP-189]

Yes, but there are several points of view. For bands, the thinner they are, the faster they shoot and wear out. Same goes for tubes, but tubes tend to be thicker walled than bands and have no edge where teears start, so they shoot slower for a given draw strength and projectile and last longer. Tubes come in two main types: western tubes and Chinese tubes, which are narrower, thinner and shoot faster. You can also use ganged stationary store elastic bands and they can be quite good, but not as good as Chinese bands and flatbands. Rubber formulation is critical to band performance. 100% natural latex is great, but synthetics can also be good. Tapering bands and tubes gives a performance advantage because they make the back end lighter and have less inertia. It's hard to taper tubes and most are not. The weight of the pouch is the most important part to lighten for enhanced performance. The pouch attachment typically fails first. Good quality leather and pouch design helps a lot. Some people like light draw some heavy, but the band constraction strength should be matched to the projectile weight. Start with a light draw and work up to heavier bands till you find the one that suits.

There are many successful bandsets available for purchase from the vendors. Personally, I am partial to my Fastbands, but horses for courses.

 

[kerplunk]

Yes, but there are several points of view. For bands, the thinner they are, the faster they shoot and wear out. Same goes for tubes, but tubes tend to be thicker walled than bands and have no edge where teears start, so they shoot slower for a given draw strength and projectile and last longer. Tubes come in two main types: western tubes and Chinese tubes, which are narrower, thinner and shoot faster. You can also use ganged stationary store elastic bands and they can be quite good, but not as good as Chinese bands and flatbands. Rubber formulation is critical to band performance. 100% natural latex is great, but synthetics can also be good. Tapering bands and tubes gives a performance advantage because they make the back end lighter and have less inertia. It's hard to taper tubes and most are not. The weight of the pouch is the most important part to lighten for enhanced performance. The pouch attachment typically fails first. Good quality leather and pouch design helps a lot. Some people like light draw some heavy, but the band constraction strength should be matched to the projectile weight. Start with a light draw and work up to heavier bands till you find the one that suits.

There are many successful bandsets available for purchase from the vendors. Personally, I am partial to my Fastbands, but horses for courses.

Excellent info, thanks!