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Hi everyone. I'm still pretty new to this forum. I thought I would post something about my homemade slingshot rifle, that I call the Vermin Popper, and my attempts to test some band sets I made for it. I previously posted a description of this rather crude contraption on another site. This slingshot rifle is intended to be an ongoing research and development project that hope I will learn a few things from, as well as just keeping myself entertained while staying home to avoid COVID-19.
I made the Vermin Popper from some inexpensive wood (Poplar), small pieces of steel and aluminum bar stock (found in my friend and landlord's basement that were left over from a couple of other guy's projects), PVC plastic tubing, some Paracord, a few bolts, nuts, a couple of pulleys, and a light hollow-steel-tube mop handle. The mop handle is made in sections so that it can be easily lengthened or shortened; this allows quick adjustment of the "barrel length" and band stretch. The one-foot long mop handle sections have small push button spring connectors that allow for section removal and replacement in seconds.
I have fitted the end barrel section with a couple of different forks I made from PVC tubing. I wanted to be able to test-fire with a fairly long barrel (i.e., longer draw lengths) so I tried to keep the barrel and forks light to diminish the leverage factor (to help in taking a steady aim). I made the Vermin Popper out of parts that I could fairly easily remove, modify and replace to test design modifications and types of bands and band set configurations. I made a thumb trigger for simplicity and reliability (and because I have some problems with joints in a couple of my fingers that I can't get fixed right now).
For me, the main advantages of my slingshot rifle over my conventional slingshots are: (1) that I can use more powerful bands that I do not have sufficient strength to fully draw and hold steady using my fingers and thumb (or the release mechanisms I've seen thus far); (2) I can explore a wider range of band set configurations with the rifle; (3) I will hopefully be able to take flying game from a greater distance with the rifle than with my conventional slingshots; (4) I enjoy having a slightly more complex weapon that presents design challenges beyond those I have encountered with my conventional slingshots.
The Vermin Popper has an inexpensive Daisy air rifle red dot sight that I mounted on a homemade aluminum bracket; I chose this sight partly because it is made for shooting with both eyes open (and I hope to eventually use the Vermin Popper for hunting game in flight). With all barrel sections joined, the overall length (fork to end of stock) is 69 inches and it weighs exactly 6.0 pounds; if you break it down into two pieces (by push button disconnection) the longest section is about 37 1/2 inches (which makes it easy to transport in a car). The draw length with the longest barrel (all sections joined) is 43 inches. I made a cheap wooden portable fold-up stand for the rifle that I use to hold it stable when I'm changing bands, forks, making adjustments, or, to hold it upright (standing on its stock) next to my lawn chair when target practicing.
When using the full-length barrel, I cock the Vermin Popper by first setting the pouch (holding the ball) in the homemade trigger/release mechanism's tongs, setting the stock on my left boot while kneeling on my right knee (or while sitting), grasping the small thin plywood hand grip attached to the end of the draw cords (Paracord), pulling the grip down toward the midsection of the rifle, and hooking the grip to one of the two chrome bolt extensions protruding from the underside of the rifle (I threaded the inside of the chrome extensions to go over ¼-20 threads). There is a hole in the plywood hand grip (actually two holes about an inch apart to allow a little instant adjustment) that allows hooking it to the chrome bolt extensions. I can cock the rifle while sitting in a small rowboat without standing up.
The bands can be drawn to a partially cocked length (38 to 39-inch draw), by hooking the hand grip to an alternate chrome bolt extension (to increase band life during indoor target shooting in the basement); or, you can draw to full stretch ( my current stretch ratio is about 5.3 to 5.8 to 1 with the longest barrel) for hunting or longer shots. You can also make smaller incremental adjustments in band stretch by simply changing the length of the draw cords (I untie and retie the knot at the end of the cords at the hand grip). You can make a quick "fine tuning" adjustment to match the draw lengths of the two separate bands by just sliding the knot, where the two draw strings tie together at the hand grip, a little to the left or a little to the right.
A word on safety: this homemade slingshot rifle is quite possibly dangerous to the shooter. If anyone should try making one of these, I would highly recommend: a cautious approach; always using ample eye protection; initially testing with smaller less powerful bands; starting with plastic target ammo; using parts (especially the fork parts, pulleys and draw cords on my rig) made to more than withstand the stresses applied; expecting the unexpected; following applicable gun safety and slingshot safety recommendations from experts (I am certainly not an expert); and, using common sense. I will also mention that I use two small rubber bands on my fork pulleys to bias the pulleys toward swinging away from the pouch/projectile path when the slingshot rifle is fired. Each of my current pulleys are rated for a 110-pound workload (if one breaks it will be coming toward my face at about 300 + feet per second). I have chosen to bolt together all of my crucial PVC joints to keep any fork parts from turning or rotating under high band tension. I have thus far tested bands with as much as an approximate 68-pound pull without anything breaking; however, that is no guarantee that something won't break. I will also add here that my fastest shooting bands sets pulled from 43 to 49 pounds; the 68-pound pull bands were a bit slower (at least with the ammo I have used thus far) and cocking required a lot more effort from me.
I think it's safe to say that the Vermin Popper's looks offer more utilitarian appeal than pure visible beauty. That said, "a picture is worth a thousand words," so, I will attempt to post some photos of the Vermin Popper and maybe a video if I can figure out how to do that - I'm an old guy who is technologically challenged and any advice on how to post a video on this site would be appreciated. I plan to post some results of chronometer testing with some homemade band sets I have tried on this slingshot rifle, probably on the "Slingshot Bands and Tubes" forum. To the present, my fastest chronometer measured shot for 10.30 mm diameter steel balls was 363.5 feet per second (fps) and my fastest for 36 caliber (9.5 mm diameter) lead musket balls was 357.3 fps. Comments, criticism, and suggestions are welcome.
Cherish the rubber,
Darcy1
I made the Vermin Popper from some inexpensive wood (Poplar), small pieces of steel and aluminum bar stock (found in my friend and landlord's basement that were left over from a couple of other guy's projects), PVC plastic tubing, some Paracord, a few bolts, nuts, a couple of pulleys, and a light hollow-steel-tube mop handle. The mop handle is made in sections so that it can be easily lengthened or shortened; this allows quick adjustment of the "barrel length" and band stretch. The one-foot long mop handle sections have small push button spring connectors that allow for section removal and replacement in seconds.
I have fitted the end barrel section with a couple of different forks I made from PVC tubing. I wanted to be able to test-fire with a fairly long barrel (i.e., longer draw lengths) so I tried to keep the barrel and forks light to diminish the leverage factor (to help in taking a steady aim). I made the Vermin Popper out of parts that I could fairly easily remove, modify and replace to test design modifications and types of bands and band set configurations. I made a thumb trigger for simplicity and reliability (and because I have some problems with joints in a couple of my fingers that I can't get fixed right now).
For me, the main advantages of my slingshot rifle over my conventional slingshots are: (1) that I can use more powerful bands that I do not have sufficient strength to fully draw and hold steady using my fingers and thumb (or the release mechanisms I've seen thus far); (2) I can explore a wider range of band set configurations with the rifle; (3) I will hopefully be able to take flying game from a greater distance with the rifle than with my conventional slingshots; (4) I enjoy having a slightly more complex weapon that presents design challenges beyond those I have encountered with my conventional slingshots.
The Vermin Popper has an inexpensive Daisy air rifle red dot sight that I mounted on a homemade aluminum bracket; I chose this sight partly because it is made for shooting with both eyes open (and I hope to eventually use the Vermin Popper for hunting game in flight). With all barrel sections joined, the overall length (fork to end of stock) is 69 inches and it weighs exactly 6.0 pounds; if you break it down into two pieces (by push button disconnection) the longest section is about 37 1/2 inches (which makes it easy to transport in a car). The draw length with the longest barrel (all sections joined) is 43 inches. I made a cheap wooden portable fold-up stand for the rifle that I use to hold it stable when I'm changing bands, forks, making adjustments, or, to hold it upright (standing on its stock) next to my lawn chair when target practicing.
When using the full-length barrel, I cock the Vermin Popper by first setting the pouch (holding the ball) in the homemade trigger/release mechanism's tongs, setting the stock on my left boot while kneeling on my right knee (or while sitting), grasping the small thin plywood hand grip attached to the end of the draw cords (Paracord), pulling the grip down toward the midsection of the rifle, and hooking the grip to one of the two chrome bolt extensions protruding from the underside of the rifle (I threaded the inside of the chrome extensions to go over ¼-20 threads). There is a hole in the plywood hand grip (actually two holes about an inch apart to allow a little instant adjustment) that allows hooking it to the chrome bolt extensions. I can cock the rifle while sitting in a small rowboat without standing up.
The bands can be drawn to a partially cocked length (38 to 39-inch draw), by hooking the hand grip to an alternate chrome bolt extension (to increase band life during indoor target shooting in the basement); or, you can draw to full stretch ( my current stretch ratio is about 5.3 to 5.8 to 1 with the longest barrel) for hunting or longer shots. You can also make smaller incremental adjustments in band stretch by simply changing the length of the draw cords (I untie and retie the knot at the end of the cords at the hand grip). You can make a quick "fine tuning" adjustment to match the draw lengths of the two separate bands by just sliding the knot, where the two draw strings tie together at the hand grip, a little to the left or a little to the right.
A word on safety: this homemade slingshot rifle is quite possibly dangerous to the shooter. If anyone should try making one of these, I would highly recommend: a cautious approach; always using ample eye protection; initially testing with smaller less powerful bands; starting with plastic target ammo; using parts (especially the fork parts, pulleys and draw cords on my rig) made to more than withstand the stresses applied; expecting the unexpected; following applicable gun safety and slingshot safety recommendations from experts (I am certainly not an expert); and, using common sense. I will also mention that I use two small rubber bands on my fork pulleys to bias the pulleys toward swinging away from the pouch/projectile path when the slingshot rifle is fired. Each of my current pulleys are rated for a 110-pound workload (if one breaks it will be coming toward my face at about 300 + feet per second). I have chosen to bolt together all of my crucial PVC joints to keep any fork parts from turning or rotating under high band tension. I have thus far tested bands with as much as an approximate 68-pound pull without anything breaking; however, that is no guarantee that something won't break. I will also add here that my fastest shooting bands sets pulled from 43 to 49 pounds; the 68-pound pull bands were a bit slower (at least with the ammo I have used thus far) and cocking required a lot more effort from me.
I think it's safe to say that the Vermin Popper's looks offer more utilitarian appeal than pure visible beauty. That said, "a picture is worth a thousand words," so, I will attempt to post some photos of the Vermin Popper and maybe a video if I can figure out how to do that - I'm an old guy who is technologically challenged and any advice on how to post a video on this site would be appreciated. I plan to post some results of chronometer testing with some homemade band sets I have tried on this slingshot rifle, probably on the "Slingshot Bands and Tubes" forum. To the present, my fastest chronometer measured shot for 10.30 mm diameter steel balls was 363.5 feet per second (fps) and my fastest for 36 caliber (9.5 mm diameter) lead musket balls was 357.3 fps. Comments, criticism, and suggestions are welcome.
Cherish the rubber,
Darcy1
