[lifeisfun]

Hello out there! Is there anyone who has experience with snipersling black 0.5 and 0.6 for 8mm steel? Im wondering whether i should buy one or the other. I've seen a lot of people use .5 SS black for 8mm steel, but i also have some 10mm steel ammo which i use. So i thought i might buy the 0.6 SS black so i can use both the 8mm steel and the 10mm steel, 2 birds with 1 stone.

So my question is, is 0.6 SS black too powerful for 8mm steel, or would it work just fine? I suppose 0.6 will have more draw weight of course, more power, and maybe more or less similar speeds as 0.5? Whats the pro's cons? Thanks

My goal is too both target shoot, but also hunting when i get accurate enough.

Possible tapers i would use: 22-12, 20-12, 18-12

Sorry if this is a dumb question, im a little unsure what to purchase, im not a rich person and a new shooter, thanks.

 

[EllipsisNL]

So my question is, is 0.6 SS black too powerful for 8mm steel, or would it work just fine?

0.6 will have a little more power than 0.5, but you can just use a more narrow cut with the thicker stuff if you're shooting 8mm steel. You're also dealing with snipersling black, which has the highest draw weight : volume of latex ratio out there. Compared to other rubber of the same thickness and cut, it really pulls higher than its weight class.

I don't think it would matter too much. I'd just get the 0.5mm black and use a slightly wider cut. I use wide cuts of the stuff for 1/2" steel ball, but I also shoot with a long draw, so I can get away with more narrow cuts than a short draw.

What draw length are you using?

 

[lifeisfun]

0.6 will have a little more power than 0.5, but you can just use a more narrow cut with the thicker stuff if you're shooting 8mm steel. You're also dealing with snipersling black, which has the highest draw weight : volume of latex ratio out there. Compared to other rubber of the same thickness and cut, it really pulls higher than its weight class.

I don't think it would matter too much. I'd just get the 0.5mm black and use a slightly wider cut. I use wide cuts of the stuff for 1/2" steel ball, but I also shoot with a long draw, so I can get away with more narrow cuts than a short draw.

What draw length are you using?

Hey thanks for reply, i am using 29 inch draw (short draw anchor at my face) Thanks

 

[EllipsisNL]

For 0.6mm bands, 15mm:10mm taper cut at 6" of active band length should give you a nice 500% elongation which is just before where sniper black maxes out, should be a good cut for 8mm steel ball. They'll go zipping off pretty fast.

For 10mm steels, increase the cut to somewhere around like 22:16 tapers.

 

[Squid]

I use SS black 0.6 at 18-12 short draw for 8mm steel and it's about perfect. Then I move up to 20-15 for 9.5mm steel. Both of these are nearing the higher end of performance so great for hunting and really whacking targets. For purely target shooting I prefer something a little lighter, I haven't tried the 0.5 but I suspect it would be good at 18-12 with 8mm.

 

[lifeisfun]

I use SS black 0.6 at 18-12 short draw for 8mm steel and it's about perfect. Then I move up to 20-15 for 9.5mm steel. Both of these are nearing the higher end of performance so great for hunting and really whacking targets. For purely target shooting I prefer something a little lighter, I haven't tried the 0.5 but I suspect it would be good at 18-12 with 8mm.

Interessting. How is your band life looking with the 0.6 Sniper black?

 

[EllipsisNL]

Interessting. How is your band life looking with the 0.6 Sniper black?

Sniper black does pretty poorly with aggressive tapers and maxing out elongation, because of how heavy it pulls. It doesn't have the structural integrity to withstand its own pulling power. Either use mild tapers if you want to max out, or don't max out your pull if you use aggressive one. Then you'll be getting healthy band life instead of 100 shots. Even with these compensations, it still outperforms other latex.

 

[lifeisfun]

Sniper black does pretty poorly with aggressive tapers and maxing out elongation, because of how heavy it pulls. It doesn't have the structural integrity to withstand its own pulling power. Either use mild tapers if you want to max out, or don't max out your pull if you use aggressive one. Then you'll be getting healthy band life instead of 100 shots. Even with these compensations, it still outperforms other latex.

I use a short draw to the corner of my mouth. I usually cut my bands so they MAX out at my cheekbone, so a little past my anchor. I'm considering to get the Sniper yellow instead of black, as it seems that black has complications. It seems that Sniper yellow has slightly less speed around 20-25 FPS less, but better band life and a better feeling draw.

 

[Squid]

Interessting. How is your band life looking with the 0.6 Sniper black?

No different to any other bands I've used (apart from super thin 0.4 Sumeike), though I tend to run them at 4x elongation and lower. Black really is the one to go for if you're considering hunting, 0.6 even on a 20-15 taper has an easy draw that you can keep steady for aiming.

 

[lifeisfun]

No different to any other bands I've used (apart from super thin 0.4 Sumeike), though I tend to run them at 4x elongation and lower. Black really is the one to go for if you're considering hunting, 0.6 even on a 20-15 taper has an easy draw that you can keep steady for aiming.

Interesting that you get good band life, a lot of people have mentioned that sniper black has low band life, but perhaps u have figured out a way to make it work. Any tips?. @EllipsisNL above mentioned to avoid maxing out the bands and avoid aggressive tapers.

 

[Squid]

Well 18-12 is the standard 1/3 ratio, but I keep the elongation down well below the 4.5x to 5.5x that most recommend. Might be just me but SS black seems far tougher than the GZK and BSB I've also tried.

 

[Island made]

Get the .6 and just cut your bands narrower for the 8mm. Mind you I shoot full butterfly so my cuts will be narrower than yours..but I am currently shooting 8mm steel with .6 sniper sling black and my cut is 12 to 8 taper. It’s shooting blistering fast, that cut will even shoot 9.5 clean through both sides of an empty stew can at 20 yards. The black is a stiff draw, but cut thinly it draws smooth and performs well. It’s be far the fastest latex on the market.

 

[lifeisfun]

Well 18-12 is the standard 1/3 ratio, but I keep the elongation down well below the 4.5x to 5.5x that most recommend. Might be just me but SS black seems far tougher than the GZK and BSB I've also tried.

How much pull do you have past your anchor point?

 

[lifeisfun]

Get the .6 and just cut your bands narrower for the 8mm. Mind you I shoot full butterfly so my cuts will be narrower than yours..but I am currently shooting 8mm steel with .6 sniper sling black and my cut is 12 to 8 taper. It’s shooting blistering fast, that cut will even shoot 9.5 clean through both sides of an empty stew can at 20 yards. The black is a stiff draw, but cut thinly it draws smooth and performs well. It’s be far the fastest latex on the market.

Thanks

 

[EllipsisNL]

Get the .6 and just cut your bands narrower for the 8mm. Mind you I shoot full butterfly so my cuts will be narrower than yours..but I am currently shooting 8mm steel with .6 sniper sling black and my cut is 12 to 8 taper. It’s shooting blistering fast, that cut will even shoot 9.5 clean through both sides of an empty stew can at 20 yards. The black is a stiff draw, but cut thinly it draws smooth and performs well. It’s be far the fastest latex on the market.

This is precisely it. The slingshot community leans to one extreme to avoid the other, I find. The average person thinks higher draw weight means more power, and it's important to get that idea out of their head and replace it with better ones. But "the community" has repeated time and again that draw weight has very little influence on the speed of the projectile, and that's just far from the truth.

The truth is, you need a given amount of draw weight for a given mass. The draw weight of your rubber is the primary key indicator to how well its going to pull your projectile as well as its own mass. You could have the smoothest pull on your latex, but if it only draws one pound, it just won't have the strength to pull your 8mm steel shot fast. You can get away with a lower draw weight with a longer draw, because there's more time to accelerate your shot. But there is theoretically an ideal draw weight per draw length according to a projectile's mass.

Snipersling Black has the highest draw weight per volume of latex. That means you can get a typical 10 lbs of draw weight appropriate for 3/8" steel, using much less latex than any other out there, and have the same performance (using less latex makes it more economic as well). If you use the same cut of sniper black as any other latex, you're going to be overpowering your ammo significantly.

 

[Rb1984]

I have never used these bands but according to my opinion in other latex brands I would take 0.6 to shoot 10mm steel. It's just my opinion, maybe others may be different.

You can also take a roll of both and see which one you are more comfortable with.