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Some new guy questions

977 Views 8 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Hrawk, 
SickPythons
So, I'm not a stranger to woodworking tools but I'm having trouble figuring out how to route this plywood cutout.
I'm working with 3/4" birch. I've cut out my design with a scroll saw and am ready to put a 1/4" round bevel on it. However, how in the world do you people do this? The router seems too big handle small pieces of wood without anchoring the wood down somehow. The only thing I can think of is screwing the slingshot down but now we're talking about putting holes in my glorious design. Bah! Anybody have a video?

Okay, question two: I know its possible to epoxy a couple layers of wood together but what do you use? Just slap some:

On there and just clamp it together? I just seems too easy. Could it be?

Thanks in advance.

-Jake
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bleachbone
yea as far as i know it is that easy, just get some epoxy and clap the wood together, wont look like plywood though becasue it has no spacer but that is the idea
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MidniteMarauder
2
Don't use the 5 minute epoxy. You want one that cures over time, ends up much stronger. I use the bench vise and let it sit overnight. I like to pin my laminates as well as epoxy, for that you do need to drill holes in the glorious design.

Can't help you with the router question, I don't use one....yet. Good luck.
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Dan the Slingshot Man
for the router I would use a dremel with a router tool. It will fit in every area or a simple file will work to.
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M
A good wood glue like Titebond II or III will give you a much stronger bond than 5 minute epoxy. These glues are used by many bowyers to glue up the laminated handles you see in traditional bows. I have made many bows and have not had a failure of a glue joint yet. An even stronger wood glue is Urac 185, I think it would be overkill. You can radius the edges with a 4 in hand rasp and sandpaper in less than an hour. Bevel about a 3/16 to 1/4" 45, knock each corner off and sand smooth. I have a router, I don't use it much. Loud and makes a big mess, and if you screw up you generally ruin what you are working on. If your planning on volume a table router would be the way to go. Check out Tex Shooters youtube channel.
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SickPythons
mxred91 said:
A good wood glue like Titebond II or III will give you a much stronger bond than 5 minute epoxy. These glues are used by many bowyers to glue up the laminated handles you see in traditional bows. I have made many bows and have not had a failure of a glue joint yet. An even stronger wood glue is Urac 185, I think it would be overkill. You can radius the edges with a 4 in hand rasp and sandpaper in less than an hour. Bevel about a 3/16 to 1/4" 45, knock each corner off and sand smooth. I have a router, I don't use it much. Loud and makes a big mess, and if you screw up you generally ruin what you are working on. If your planning on volume a table router would be the way to go. Check out Tex Shooters youtube channel.
Click to expand...
Titebond, eh? I'm a big fan of Titebond II. I recently read an article on different wood glues and Titebond II beat out TBIII, Gorrilla, Elmers, and one more. I will definitely be giving that a go.
Now the rasp... Won' t that be less precise? Seems like a router will get a perfect bevel every time while the rasp relies on the user's eye.

Thanks for the info. I'll be giving it a try.
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SickPythons
I've read on other posts now that people seem to be using a router table to get this done. To me that seems really unsafe to handle a small piece of hardwood over a blade that loves to destroy material. I guess there are no cowards here on slingshotforum.com
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M
SickPythons said:
A good wood glue like Titebond II or III will give you a much stronger bond than 5 minute epoxy. These glues are used by many bowyers to glue up the laminated handles you see in traditional bows. I have made many bows and have not had a failure of a glue joint yet. An even stronger wood glue is Urac 185, I think it would be overkill. You can radius the edges with a 4 in hand rasp and sandpaper in less than an hour. Bevel about a 3/16 to 1/4" 45, knock each corner off and sand smooth. I have a router, I don't use it much. Loud and makes a big mess, and if you screw up you generally ruin what you are working on. If your planning on volume a table router would be the way to go. Check out Tex Shooters youtube channel.
Click to expand...
Titebond, eh? I'm a big fan of Titebond II. I recently read an article on different wood glues and Titebond II beat out TBIII, Gorrilla, Elmers, and one more. I will definitely be giving that a go.
Now the rasp... Won' t that be less precise? Seems like a router will get a perfect bevel every time while the rasp relies on the user's eye.

Thanks for the info. I'll be giving it a try.
[/quote]

Try it on a scrap. Anything I have posted was shaped with a rasp. Here is one: Also glued up with Titebond II
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H
SickPythons said:
So, I'm not a stranger to woodworking tools but I'm having trouble figuring out how to route this plywood cutout.
I'm working with 3/4" birch. I've cut out my design with a scroll saw and am ready to put a 1/4" round bevel on it. However, how in the world do you people do this? The router seems too big handle small pieces of wood without anchoring the wood down somehow. The only thing I can think of is screwing the slingshot down but now we're talking about putting holes in my glorious design. Bah! Anybody have a video?
Click to expand...
Make a router table. Costs very little, easy to do and will allow you to easily route small pieces. Here's a pic of one I made recently.

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