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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got a few real simple questions for you guys on here...

1) What do you recommend that I tie the pouch to the therabands with? I bought a set of Gold Therabands with a nice leather pouch already made up from ebay recently but I have no idea what they use. I certainly don't have it whatever it is. I would have thought that a strip of theraband would be the obvious choice. Any recommendations?

2) I'm comfortable with shooting hammer style, and holding the slingshot on the side. That works for me. But what are the benefits of putting your thumb and forefinger on the forks? I don't geddit....

3) I notice that not many people hold the slingshot in their right hand. I'm right handed, so it's natural for the slingshot to be there. Do most righties hold their slingshots in the LH?

Cheers!

Ken
 

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3) I notice that not many people hold the slingshot in their right hand. I'm right handed, so it's natural for the slingshot to be there. Do most righties hold their slingshots in the LH?
For me, "handedness" has to do with dexterity/skill. It does not take much skill to hold a slingshot. That is a gross motor skill. An ape could do it, and better than either of us (hint: never try to wrestle a slingshot from an ape!). The difficult part of slingshotting is holding and releasing the pouch. That is a fine motor skill. I'm probably better than an ape at doing that (but some might argue "Yeah, but only by a LITTLE bit!)

I am right handed and thus use my right hand for fine motor skills.
 

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I think most righties hold the frame in their left hand. Holding with thumb and forefinger on the forks gives you a stable platform and reduces wrist strain. Tie your bands with strips of theraband seems to be the method of choice for tying bands but you can use string, rubber bands, even castration bands. Good luck and welcome
 

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1. Yes, you can use narrow strips of theraband or you can use string (I like cotton).

2. Like Harper said, finger bracing the fork reduces wrist strain by countering much more of the torque that's generated when you draw the bands back than a hammer grip does.

3. Hold in whatever hand feels right. I shoot right handed and am right eye dominant, so I shoot my slingshots the same way I shoot my bows, slingshot/bow held in left hand while right hand draws back the pouch/string, but there are others here who shoot bows the same way I do yet hold their slingshots in the opposite hand (right hand), so I've given up trying to explain which hand you should hold your slingshot in through scientific means.
Just hold however is comfy.
 

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Just got a few real simple questions for you guys on here...

1) What do you recommend that I tie the pouch to the therabands with? I bought a set of Gold Therabands with a nice leather pouch already made up from ebay recently but I have no idea what they use. I certainly don't have it whatever it is. I would have thought that a strip of theraband would be the obvious choice. Any recommendations?

2) I'm comfortable with shooting hammer style, and holding the slingshot on the side. That works for me. But what are the benefits of putting your thumb and forefinger on the forks? I don't geddit....

3) I notice that not many people hold the slingshot in their right hand. I'm right handed, so it's natural for the slingshot to be there. Do most righties hold their slingshots in the LH?

Cheers!

Ken
1) I use a thin strip of the same elastic I cut the bands from to tie the pouch and a thicker strip to tie the bands on the fork. There are typically two ways to tie. Either a constrictor knot, or wrap tightly around twice and tie a double overhand/ reef knot.

2) If your fork is suited to a high finger grip, you will find it much more stable that way. We are always trying to make a slingshot that delivers more velocity with more control. Low forks and high finger grip

3) The pouch hand should follow your eye dominance so that you can open both eyes and judge distance but the slingshot will be lined up where you perceive the target to be in your binocular vision. This is important if you both sight-aim and shoot with both eyes open. I shoot with the fork in the left hand and pouch in the right although I am left eye dominant. I learned that way before and it's a habit, but it's a bad habit and one I need to break.

There's a lot more potential questions ... I suggest you do a lot of shooting with a flat banded slingshot and see where the refinements might be. For me the technical revelations came in this order:

  1. A low fork, high finger slingshot is easier (for me) to control than hammer grip and more lively than a wrist brace
  2. A board cut can be small and thin as long as it provides support in the right places
  3. You can shoot a slingshot on its side in a "Gangsta" grip for better aim and stability; the most stable position for my arm is involves the handle being at 45°, though the tips must be horizontal or vertically aligned
  4. Faster shots fly flatter; heavier and more dense shot material loses less velocity in flight
  5. Pulling bands harder does not necessarily translate into faster shots; you can make a band that shoots the same ball the same speed with less pulling effort
  6. Not all elastics are created equal; natural latex is hard to beat
  7. Bands with a high ratio of surface area to volume (thinner) shoot faster than ones more chunky bands. Flat bands have a higher surface area than tubes and tubes are better than solids
  8. A longer draw gives more energy, but is harder to pull and to sight-aim
  9. Lightening the pouch end produces more velocity; tapers, light pouches, lighter pouch ties and appropriately sized shot all do this
  10. Bands usually snap at the ties. If you want bands to last longer, don't make these parts too thin, too tightly tied, and avoid nicks
The world of slingshots has come a long way from the tubular banded and wrist braced commercial stuff of the 1980's. There are tapered tubes, there are braced frames with flatbands, there are pocket shooters, low forked shooters, exotic elastics, thin bands, anti-abrasion finishes, gorgeous hardwoods, waterjet cut G10 and graphite, Teflon tips. If you're a techie like me (and I know you are), you'll find as much innovation and variation in slingshots as knives. There's also much more potential for improvement.

Today, I make a slingshot small enough to slip into a wallet, bands and all, but with comparable or superior velocity, kinetic energy, control, and band durability compared to a wrist-braced tubular slingshot. There are members here who make better slingshots too and we all have far to go before slingshot potential is fully realised.
 

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Just got a few real simple questions for you guys on here...

1) What do you recommend that I tie the pouch to the therabands with? I bought a set of Gold Therabands with a nice leather pouch already made up from ebay recently but I have no idea what they use. I certainly don't have it whatever it is. I would have thought that a strip of theraband would be the obvious choice. Any recommendations?

2) I'm comfortable with shooting hammer style, and holding the slingshot on the side. That works for me. But what are the benefits of putting your thumb and forefinger on the forks? I don't geddit....

3) I notice that not many people hold the slingshot in their right hand. I'm right handed, so it's natural for the slingshot to be there. Do most righties hold their slingshots in the LH?

Cheers!

Ken
1. I use strips of thera band. Works great. Although I have not tried string yet.

2. Thumb and forefinger on the forks is less strain on wrist. Also it might allow more control.

3. I am right handed. I hold the slingshot in my left hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'm not sure how to do a multi reply so I'll do what I can...
Tie your bands with strips of theraband seems to be the method of choice for tying bands but you can use string, rubber bands, even castration bands. Good luck and welcome
I didn't think that you could use string. I thought that string would cut into the therabands. Must admit, I'm fascinated by castration bands!! Where can I get some?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
  1. A low fork, high finger slingshot is easier (for me) to control than hammer grip and more lively than a wrist brace
  2. A board cut can be small and thin as long as it provides support in the right places
  3. You can shoot a slingshot on its side in a "Gangsta" grip for better aim and stability; the most stable position for my arm is involves the handle being at 45°, though the tips must be horizontal or vertically aligned
  4. Faster shots fly flatter; heavier and more dense shot material loses less velocity in flight
  5. Pulling bands harder does not necessarily translate into faster shots; you can make a band that shoots the same ball the same speed with less pulling effort
  6. Not all elastics are created equal; natural latex is hard to beat
  7. Bands with a high ratio of surface area to volume (thinner) shoot faster than ones more chunky bands. Flat bands have a higher surface area than tubes and tubes are better than solids
  8. A longer draw gives more energy, but is harder to pull and to sight-aim
  9. Lightening the pouch end produces more velocity; tapers, light pouches, lighter pouch ties and appropriately sized shot all do this
  10. Bands usually snap at the ties. If you want bands to last longer, don't make these parts too thin, too tightly tied, and avoid nicks
Dan - what is a low fork high finger slingshot? I'm not sure I understand what that is...

When you say that pulling bands harder doesnt mean faster shots - you can make a band that shoots the same ball the same speed with less pulling effort. How is that done?

Lastly when you say a longer draw, do you mean drawing it across the front of my body (butterfly style?) and pouch hand not stopping and my face?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Okay I get the finger and thumb on the forks now. But seeing that most ppl are shooting 0.44 lead shot, the risk of fork (thumb or finger) hits scares the **** outta me!
 

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What fascinates me about slingshots is that a lot of what we may believe based on intuition and common sense isn't necessarily true.

One reason is that elastic is a mysterious material and slingshots are inefficient. In the same way that an old mini may deliver less fuel economy that a BMW M3, a weaker band may shoot a ball faster than a heavy tube or band that wastes most of its energy fighting inertia, internal friction and air resistance.

Just a few months ago when I was new here I started out with some heavy bands from our friend Culloch and moved up to fish's Hunter Bands. I found the idea of throwing pingpong ball sized ball bearings such a giggle that I got all obsessed about making forks that would allow me to draw the bands. However, my accuracy sucked and each time I drew I could hear my joints creaking.

So I focussed on making the fastest and most accurate bands I could. I bought everybody's bands and experimented till it bordered on an obsession. My bands and the bought bands did indeed shoot straight and fast with high efficiency, but most lasted a week to a month at most.

My next couple of months were spent trying to improve band life. I tried different tying and cutting methods, different band finishes, cutting methods, solid teflon tips, tips of different shapes. I even went to Shanghai and met with some guys working with nanotechnology.

Having gotten band life under control, I have been working on improving quality control and production efficiency.

Who knows what I will find interesting next?

In all the time I have been experimenting, I only had one finger or hand hit of any note and that was shooting some appalling rubber band chains. I have had half a dozen fork hits, but all those were on bought slingshots, much to my chagrin. Who knows, maybe I've had fork hits with mine, but I can't tell as there was no damage or injury.

Back to band efficiency, my favourite slingshot right now is Site Vendor Flatbands' Pocket Plinker shooting 9g lad shot. You should buy one; they're inexpensive, accurate and powerful. I would also happily send you one of my T1 boardcuts with the latest bandset if you'll PM me your updated address, Ken, but please do support our Site Vendors who all sell great slingshots in every flavour.

Another comment on heavy versus light bands: A heavy slingshot will generally out throw a light band, but the shot needs to be very heavy indeed. Hunter Bands could well fell some fairly large game, but they are hard to shoot accurately (or even draw) unless you are both experienced and beefy. Lighter bands will not only outperform with lighter shot, they are much easier to be accurate with hence you will get better target scores and more hunting kills. Member shot in the foot reports having taken about two score of crows at last count at impressive ranges with my lightweight slingshot.
 

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Tie your bands with strips of theraband seems to be the method of choice for tying bands but you can use string, rubber bands, even castration bands. Good luck and welcome
I didn't think that you could use string. I thought that string would cut into the therabands. Must admit, I'm fascinated by castration bands!! Where can I get some?!


[/quote]

You can do a search on the internet or if you live in a rural are you can check out the local farm and home store.

http://www.farmrite.co.uk/
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
What fascinates me about slingshots is that a lot of what we may believe based on intuition and common sense isn't necessarily true.

One reason is that elastic is a mysterious material and slingshots are inefficient. In the same way that an old mini may deliver less fuel economy that a BMW M3, a weaker band may shoot a ball faster than a heavy tube or band that wastes most of its energy fighting inertia, internal friction and air resistance.

Just a few months ago when I was new here I started out with some heavy bands from our friend Culloch and moved up to fish's Hunter Bands. I found the idea of throwing pingpong ball sized ball bearings such a giggle that I got all obsessed about making forks that would allow me to draw the bands. However, my accuracy sucked and each time I drew I could hear my joints creaking.

So I focussed on making the fastest and most accurate bands I could. I bought everybody's bands and experimented till it bordered on an obsession. My bands and the bought bands did indeed shoot straight and fast with high efficiency, but most lasted a week to a month at most.

My next couple of months were spent trying to improve band life. I tried different tying and cutting methods, different band finishes, cutting methods, solid teflon tips, tips of different shapes. I even went to Shanghai and met with some guys working with nanotechnology.

Having gotten band life under control, I have been working on improving quality control and production efficiency.

Who knows what I will find interesting next?

In all the time I have been experimenting, I only had one finger or hand hit of any note and that was shooting some appalling rubber band chains. I have had half a dozen fork hits, but all those were on bought slingshots, much to my chagrin. Who knows, maybe I've had fork hits with mine, but I can't tell as there was no damage or injury.

Back to band efficiency, my favourite slingshot right now is Site Vendor Flatbands' Pocket Plinker shooting 9g lad shot. You should buy one; they're inexpensive, accurate and powerful. I would also happily send you one of my T1 boardcuts with the latest bandset if you'll PM me your updated address, Ken, but please do support our Site Vendors who all sell great slingshots in every flavour.

Another comment on heavy versus light bands: A heavy slingshot will generally out throw a light band, but the shot needs to be very heavy indeed. Hunter Bands could well fell some fairly large game, but they are hard to shoot accurately (or even draw) unless you are both experienced and beefy. Lighter bands will not only outperform with lighter shot, they are much easier to be accurate with hence you will get better target scores and more hunting kills. Member shot in the foot reports having taken about two score of crows at last count at impressive ranges with my lightweight slingshot.
Dan, I would never have imagined that there would be such difference with the bands esp if most are using the stronger therabands. I can imagine that it would be easy to pull you into researching and trying all manner of bands from lots of different suppliers.

Well I ordered my first catty from Fish - got a meal deal so I'm really looking forward to playing with that at the weekend if I get the time. Dan - I will take you up on your kind offer. Is there anything that you would like me to send to you in HK in return? I can rustle up a nice "care package" with biscuits, teabags and whatever else you find hard to get over in HK. I think that I'll get myself a Snody Blingshot too - that really appeals to me.

Oh btw, I might be taking a trip to HK at some point with the family. Not sure when - it'd have to be during a holiday. I've been told that I can sell my "right to build" in the sticks in the New Territories. If we pop back for a holiday, I'll be sure to look you up.
 

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No need for reciprocation, Ken, though the offer is much appreciated. Is the Willow address still OK? Look me up when you come to HK, I'll introduce you to Danny, Lee from BB and Ah Kei another knifemaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's right Dan, Willow Drives the one. If you ever need anything from the UK just lemme know.

It's been a while since I was last in HK but I'll deffo look you up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
That's right Dan, Willow Drives the one. If you ever need anything from the UK just lemme know.

It's been a while since I was last in HK but I'll deffo look you up.
 
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