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"Crafter"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys I need advice. I'm really digging making my laminates just not the gluing times. Can I use the cheap thin super glue in enough quantity (with pins) to hold palm swells to a natural fork? Will this bind be strong or will it be brittle .. I currently use a pva resin which takes about 24 hours to dry clear, the bond formed is strong but very dependant on the join ...
 

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Over 9001 Warning Points!
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It's just a day... Take your time and you will have a better result, IMO. Home depot sells cheap superglue
 

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Use tirte bond 1,2 or 3
 

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"Crafter"
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its not so much I mind waiting for glue to set its that I have little time set aside with my family life. I fully understand the importance of a quality join and all My current shooters are "slow" glued, it was just a question, palm swells are not a critical joint and with the constant pressure of holding it against the fork I was looking into shortcuts lol.
 

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Its not so much I mind waiting for glue to set its that I have little time set aside with my family life. I fully understand the importance of a quality join and all My current shooters are "slow" glued, it was just a question, palm swells are not a critical joint and with the constant pressure of holding it against the fork I was looking into shortcuts lol.
fair enough, I would imagine that CA would be strong enough, especially quick at least if an accelerator is used, it certainly leaves no glue lines if the joints are flush. I used it in the multi piece core of the recent Yew natural and other than being messy was effective
 

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I reckon it'l be bombproof mate, it gets everywhere though so i recommend gloves if your not already wearing them
 

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im just a noob but for my first boardcut i used white woodglue (clear drying) for the palmswells. works fine for me, dries on 4-5 hrs.

also you could try clear 2 component epoxy, there are varieties that cure in under n hour.

with any glue joint i find it critical to make flush fit though, for the strongest n best looking joints. and i always clamp it down with a glueclamp for a few hours.

good luck!
 

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Craftsman
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titebond 3 is awesome, so is gorrila.

If you want to be quick, this is what I use

https://www.turners-...olyurethane-8oz

4 hours curing time but it can be very messy and you must were gloves, its nasty sh!t lol
I've always preferred Titebond II as it's waterproof and seems to set harder than III.

I would steer away from Gorilla Glue as it foams too much and isn't as strong as Titebond.

CA glue is fine for palm swells if you don't want to wait long.
 

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"Crafter"
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Ok guys wish I had my camera in this house, I used just the cheap 50p thin CA glue (whole tube( and two pins on the palmswell, it was truck proof in 3 minutes I even dropped it from head height before I started sanding and it stuck together fine. I will use CA again for non critical joints it seems rock solid, I usually coat my forks in a polyurethane varnish which in itself is like a glue adding to overall strength.

lies I had My mobile phone camera...





 

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just remembered this thread, I tried some to see if it worked and by 'eck it works a treat... thought id share my finds and you have beaten me to it


what a result! good job sir
 

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"Crafter"
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It works
just remembered this thread, I tried some to see if it worked and by 'eck it works a treat... thought id share my finds and you have beaten me to it


what a result! good job sir
Its a much more time effective method, As stated if there were any critical pressure put on the joint I would move onto my gorilla/PVA, but for simple palm swells that accept pressure in a good way I will use super glue again! Just add saw dust lol.
 

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Its not so much I mind waiting for glue to set its that I have little time set aside with my family life. I fully understand the importance of a quality join and all My current shooters are "slow" glued, it was just a question, palm swells are not a critical joint and with the constant pressure of holding it against the fork I was looking into shortcuts lol.
fair enough, I would imagine that CA would be strong enough, especially quick at least if an accelerator is used, it certainly leaves no glue lines if the joints are flush. I used it in the multi piece core of the recent Yew natural and other than being messy was effective
[/quote] i have found 1 weakness with CA and wood, CA likes to have something to bond to, in the past i have used ca to join wood, it does work, but not very well, under not much stress the joints come apart, it does not fill voids in wood. so this leaves much less area bonded.
 

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"Crafter"
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Its not so much I mind waiting for glue to set its that I have little time set aside with my family life. I fully understand the importance of a quality join and all My current shooters are "slow" glued, it was just a question, palm swells are not a critical joint and with the constant pressure of holding it against the fork I was looking into shortcuts lol.
fair enough, I would imagine that CA would be strong enough, especially quick at least if an accelerator is used, it certainly leaves no glue lines if the joints are flush. I used it in the multi piece core of the recent Yew natural and other than being messy was effective
[/quote] i have found 1 weakness with CA and wood, CA likes to have something to bond to, in the past i have used ca to join wood, it does work, but not very well, under not much stress the joints come apart, it does not fill voids in wood. so this leaves much less area bonded.
[/quote]

This exactly. I don't know if its recommended but I always dust the surfaces I am bonding with saw dust then apply the glue liberally just to give something to "bite" to.
 
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